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26M trailer rebuild

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.

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26M trailer rebuild

Postby andyman2000 » Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:36 pm

I've never rebuilt a trailer brake system so I just need some help with parts list since I can't exactly go down to the dealership to order parts. I have a 2004 Mac 26M trailer. Steel frame, surge brakes etc. I'd like to replace the entire system. The cables are broken, everything is rusted, not even sure if it works anymore. So my question is, what do I order? How do I know what my wheel bolt pattern is?

I'd like to get stainless rotors if possible. something more rust resistant. I found the link to etrailer.com, I found some stuff on amazon. What should I order?
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby mastreb » Sun Nov 03, 2013 1:28 pm

The original manufacturer of the trailer axle is UFP:

www.ufpnet.com

You can order an entirely new axle for about $500. Contact them.
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby andyman2000 » Sun Nov 03, 2013 4:25 pm

thanks you guys are the best. Looks like I found the correct kit and it'll be a bolt on swap. thanks for helping noobies like myself out.


andy
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby RobertB » Fri Dec 13, 2013 5:46 pm

Keep in mind, when ordering a new axle from UFP, yeah, the axle may be $500, but that is just for the bare axle. My experience was almost comical, especially when I told the salesman I wanted to get the complete assembly. So, in addition to the axle, you need (all separate items from UFP) the trailing arms, trailing arm bolts (I bought stainless steel ones locally), axles, wheel bearing inner races, wheel bearing outer races, wheel bearings, bearing grease seals, wheels, and fenders. After that you need bolts to mount the axle to the trailer, a way to mount the fenders, and someway to protect the boat hull from rubbing the fender. All outlined in detail previously, search the forum. Total price is well over $1000.
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby RussMT » Fri Dec 13, 2013 8:13 pm

This is the original manufacturer of the parts, not the whole trailer.
http://www.ufpnet.com

I found I had to order parts from a dealer. Do a search for UFP dealers. Local for me was http://www.sixrobblees.com/ and they were great. Put the whole thing together for me and delivered it. See if there is a serial number on the axle. That will help them look up what you have there.

However, it sounds like you are seeking just brake parts. Some can be obtained locally, like brake lines. The aluminum M trailer uses a torsion bar axle. Not sure if the steel trailer did.
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby andyman2000 » Tue Dec 17, 2013 3:04 am

Thanks for everyones help. I've learned a lot from this experience, wasted some money buying the wrong parts but everything is now working great. Just to save others from the same head ache, let me post what I did, and parts I bought.

First I replaced the actuator with a UFP XR84 actuator (just the slide and not the outer). It was a direct swap. You'll need a sledge hammer to pound the rusted pin out of the older actuator.

As for the rest, I went for the Kodiak All stainless brakes, rotors , caliper, mounting bracket, and stainless ceramic brake pads. For the brake hose, I replaced with rubber hose with brass fittings. 20' hose kit.

What I learned is that the UFP trailer on my 2004 26M has the UFP axles which are 1 3/8" bearings inside and outside. Most brake hubs are 1 3/8 on the inside and 1 1/16 on the outside. I had to buy UFP 1-3/8" x 1-3/8" Bearing, 5 on 4.5" Stud Hub #33667. The Kodiak rotors will mount to this since they are not a single hub / rotor design. To make this all magically work, order the UFP hubs from eastern marines. I haven't been able to find them anywhere else.

You'll need a 2.328 bearing buddy with the bearing buddy covers.


The other thing I learned is that most of those bolts on the trailer are rusted solid. I had to use a grinder to cut the heads off the bolts to release the old caliper.

I also recommend Loctite 38650 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant Brush Top on all threaded surfaces to ensure easy removal in the future.

I also learned that the lug nuts are 1/2 - 20 right hand thread. I recommend stainless steel trailer lug nuts acorn style (316 stainless preferably). These lug nuts completely enclose the thread and will guarantee your lug nuts won't seize or rust if you use the copper anti seize.


Once you do the above, your trailer should be solid for a long time. No need to pay someone to put in substandard parts on your trailer. You have all the data now listed above.
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby Boblee » Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:10 pm

Andyman
You don't say where you are but obviously the US, if you were in eg Aust your original question/answer would be so much different as you would be far better off (and cheaper) to get a whole new axle with local fittings or perhaps converting to a tandem but at least upgrading the trailer to well over 2.2 tonne rating.
Personally the first thing I altered was the tyres then the short OEM springs, the brakes were still perfect when discarded but the actuator was r/s.
BTW if any aussie owners are reading this I do have a complete axle set up with alko 2.4t rated springs on it.
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby andyman2000 » Wed Dec 18, 2013 3:57 am

Yup I'm in the US. I'm not so sure replacing everything woulda been cheaper. I wanted Kodiak stainless. I also wanted stainless throughout, and not zinc plated. Frankly I can't see how anyone can do this cheaper then how I did it considering the material cost. You'd have to make your margin on the parts and install for free. A shop would go out of business doing it this way.

I probably could have replaced the entire assembly including the axle for more then half of what I paid but then I'd end up with junk in 2 years. I figured go 316 stainless now and be done with it.
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Re: 26M trailer rebuild

Postby Boblee » Wed Dec 18, 2013 9:00 am

Andy
Interesting that you think you would end up with junk if using original type fittings in two years, by washing after immersion ours were/are still perfect after 7 years (2006) but I replaced them and the axle/s with all gal fittings but with stainless pistons etc, mind you since removing originals and standing in the weather they are corroding (surface)now.
I went for dual aust axles purely because the original trailer is so far under rated for the job in hand (now 2.8t or 6173lb ) and because I wanted all aust parts so they could be easily replaced.
The biggest single expense was the actuator to convert from electric to hydraulics so I could have disc brakes.
My point about it being different here was that it would probably be unwise to use those parts because of availability here and local regulations, I am sure what you did is perfect for where you are.
I am a great fan of gal as I hate painting but the original paint was exceptional with no rust and they had to sandblast it off to dip it, where most paints come off in the solution they use.
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