Trailer Brake problem

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macowneril2015
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Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Downtown Chicago, 2001 26X, 2001 50 Hp Nissan (NS50D2)

Trailer Brake problem

Post by macowneril2015 »

The trailer which came with my newly acquired :macx: has drum brakes with a titan 60 system the master cylinder is dry and seems to have dried out due to it being abandoned while being stored. Should I try to bleed the system and see any leaks? Also i need to move it from its current location would it be unwise to move it without repairing? I have a vehicle that should be able to handle the weight since it is equipped with a towing package.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by Tomfoolery »

It's shot. Don't even bother. You can get either a whole new coupler, which requires that you cut or grind off the welds and either weld on the new one, or drill the pole tongue and bolt it, or just put a new master cylinder in there. And the damper, while you're in there.

I replaced the coupler, brake lines, and drums and backing plates with all new parts, but with disc brakes. The only way to fly.

I believe this is the master cylinder for the Model 60 on your trailer. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and ... 95100.html Note that drum and disc brake master cylinders are not the same due to the valving. And this is probably the shock absorber for that same coupler. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and ... 36200.html But I'd bet the brakes are shot, also. Probably seized. New brake assemblies are the cheapest way to go. 10" x 2-1/4" free-backing assemblies are around $50 each. http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer ... rakes.aspx
macowneril2015
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Location: Downtown Chicago, 2001 26X, 2001 50 Hp Nissan (NS50D2)

Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by macowneril2015 »

Okay I think I may replace the entire coupling. The whole unit is pretty banged up. I will get photos up soon but looks like I will have a busy spring to get the boat ready. Thank you for you input it is a huge help.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by Tomfoolery »

Here's a thread on this subject, including some pics and info on what I did to my trailer.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... 2&p=237559
macowneril2015
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Location: Downtown Chicago, 2001 26X, 2001 50 Hp Nissan (NS50D2)

Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by macowneril2015 »

This may sound like a really stupid question but when you need to do major work on the trailer what should be done about the boat. I do not have a slip where I can keep it, and I have no experience blocking a boat up.
C Buchs
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by C Buchs »

macowneril2015 wrote:This may sound like a really stupid question but when you need to do major work on the trailer what should be done about the boat. I do not have a slip where I can keep it, and I have no experience blocking a boat up.
If you're just working on the axel and breaks, you should be able to jack the trailer up and put it on some jack stands with the boat still on the trailer. I'd put them on the frame right behind where the fender attaches on each side. As long as you are on a good solid surface, they will hold fine. I think everything could be reached without actually going under the boat. I'd be nervious about being under it.

Jeff
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by Tomfoolery »

C Buchs wrote:
macowneril2015 wrote:This may sound like a really stupid question but when you need to do major work on the trailer what should be done about the boat. I do not have a slip where I can keep it, and I have no experience blocking a boat up.
If you're just working on the axel and breaks, you should be able to jack the trailer up and put it on some jack stands with the boat still on the trailer. I'd put them on the frame right behind where the fender attaches on each side. As long as you are on a good solid surface, they will hold fine. I think everything could be reached without actually going under the boat. I'd be nervious about being under it.
When I got my X, the drum brakes on both axles were frozen and dragging, overheating the bearings and spitting grease by the time I got it home. I jacked it up with the boat on the trailer, and stripped all the brakes off so I could haul it and launch the boat. I installed disc brakes on the back axle, which I did without the boat on the trailer, but that was mainly so I could back it into the garage to get out of the sun while I worked on it. Jack stands, as C Buchs suggested, are all that's needed. If the axle or springs also need replacing, put them under the frame. I leave my floor jack under whatever I'm working on, just as a backup. If the jackstands are on asphalt, put a cement paver or flat block or a 2x10 under it to spread the load so it doesn't sink into the pavement.

If you don't have jack stands, use solid lumber, like 4x4's stacked in alternating direction. Or RR ties. Hollow cement block is not designed for that sort of loading, and shouldn't be used. But a pair of jack stands are cheap enough, and the boat and trailer just aren't that heavy. And you'll be jacking it again to check and/or replace the bearings sooner or later anyway (every spring for me). Make sure the tongue jack is solid, by the way, as you don't want it collapsing while you're horsing something at the back while on jackstands. If you're not sure about it, hitch it to the tow vehicle.

I don't think there was any job I did on the trailer, other than replacing the bunks, that couldn't have been done safely with the boat on it, though it's far more convenient running wire or replacing the brake lines with no boat on it. And if I had to, I could have replaced the bunks with the boat on it, too, with a little simple blocking and tongue jack and/or floor jack work.
macowneril2015
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by macowneril2015 »

Thank you, I was able to move the boat no major issues except not having brakes.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by Tomfoolery »

Just to reinforce what I was saying about being able to work on the brakes safely. Two jack stands under the frame (or under the axles), and I just leave the jack under something as a backup, and because there's no point in moving it.

Image

Nice new disc brakes on one axle. The original axle has drums but no guts now.

Image

A new coupler and brake lines, and it's better than new, 'cause it has disc brakes now. :wink:

Image
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RobertB
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by RobertB »

C Buchs wrote:
macowneril2015 wrote:This may sound like a really stupid question but when you need to do major work on the trailer what should be done about the boat. I do not have a slip where I can keep it, and I have no experience blocking a boat up.
If you're just working on the axel and breaks, you should be able to jack the trailer up and put it on some jack stands with the boat still on the trailer. I'd put them on the frame right behind where the fender attaches on each side. As long as you are on a good solid surface, they will hold fine. I think everything could be reached without actually going under the boat. I'd be nervious about being under it.
Jeff
What about replacing the entire steel front end on the aluminium trailer. I was hoping the front v-bunk with a little added support under the hull and trailer side rails would hold together when I take out the front assembly. Need to do this as I inspected the aft end of the tube and it appeared it has lost half of its thickness. Considering using a 3x4 inch tube in place of the 3x3 inch one so I can use a bolt on coupler outer housing.
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kadet
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Re: Trailer Brake problem

Post by kadet »

I was hoping the front v-bunk with a little added support under the hull and trailer side rails would hold together when I take out the front assembly.
If you have a factory V Bunk still I would not trust those bolts to hold anything, when I replaced my V Bunk with a stainless one I snapped those bolts clean of by hand with a small hand spanner. I am looking at changing the draw bar to a galvanised one next year my plan is to use a ratchet strap to "lock" the aluminium section together so the trailer does not splay from the boat weight, or just dump and anchor the boat for a couple of days in good weather while I fit the new draw bar :)
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