Transom Reinforcements (I can't believe ...)

[TonyHouk]

Hey Y'all,
I decided that I wanted to upgrade my motor. I was bidding on a 90 Johnson on eBay. I was outbid by the other guy a number of times. I called the company that had the motor and asked if he had any other motors. He had, now wait for this, an Evinrude 90 and 115. I was going to go for the 90 but I bought the 115. I can't believe that I did that. This company re-manufactures engines so it is basically a new engine with a one year warranty. I went to the local metal shop and priced some c channel to help brace the rear. I get to pick up the motor on Monday. I am going to "Finally" install the M steering pod onto the X so that it frees the cockpit up a bit. I was glad that I was able to purchase that pod then. Well I was able to ski behind the boat before but now I will really be able to so that. If you are reading this and you have the install pictures from when Billy put the Suzuki 140 on his rear could you email me them or provide a link? Thanks, Tony


ModsEdit:
to clarify title
Moving to Modifications ~fc

[AKCoastie]

Mind if I get those pics too? Thanks.

[ALX357]

What about a mainsheet attachment point ? IIRC, the M uses a traveler on the cockpit seats just at the companionway. If the large footprint and wider base of the stock X pedestal is replaced by the much smaller M's steering pipe base, there would be way too much leverage against it from the main. Even with the extra two floor connectons of the table and handrail accessory on my X, and its additonal attachment to the pedestal, there is some flex when the main is pulling against it.

[WD]

i don't have the pics but here's the 'Billy thread', maybe you can post there and still acquire them.

http://mycyberbuddy.com/conchcruisers/f ... sc&start=0

Cheers

[Frank C]

Here's a MacMod showing how my Mac dealer reinforced my transom
for my massive Suzuki-60, ten years ago.
Also, try searching on transom in MacMods ... might be more examples out there.

Reinforced Transom

==================

Tony, I just realized that both Billy (Suzi-140) and Mark (Suzi-115) had sent me transom pix, long ago.
I just uploaded them to my Transom Album. Browse through there for some more ideas.
You'll need to take note of each individual filename to understand what you're viewing.

[TonyHouk]

Frank,
That will help tremendously. I though billy had said that he had a hard drive crash a few years ago and he did not have the photos. I guess he could take some more though. So billy if you are reading this could you post some more? Thanks, Tony

[DaveB]

Frank , for your system with a 60 hp Suzuki may work well but if your going to depleat all strength in a U channel bar ...you have exceded the purpose. All you have is a backing plate with top/bottom plates going accross with no structual forces because of the size of Hole cut in , What you have is for and aft strength and no lateral.
For all porpuses probably do well for the 60 but will not do for 90 hp or above.
If there was on drilling for the tubes, this would be above standard strength , If the stringers and glass were built to support the U channel.
Dave
PS: My brother and I already converted a 15 Glastron trI hull into a Base boat with the 60 HP Suzuki engine on it. Probably will have to send this very high profile of this boat. (very diffrent and unusual).
Cut away transum for pontons effect bringing weight of engin much forward.

Here's a MacMod showing how my Mac dealer reinforced my transom
for my massive Suzuki-60, ten years ago.
Also, try searching on transom in MacMods ... might be more examples out there.
Reinforced Transom

[TonyHouk]

Alx,
What I am doing with the M pod is I have attached the pod to a flat plate. From there it is attached to a tube of about four inches in diameter. Then it goes to a base plate which has the dimensions of the original X helm plus a little. The original X table that I got from Blue waters it bolted to the M pod and the base plate. The base plate is then bolted using the original hole pattern that the X helm used originally used. So in effect the loads are almost the same as the original helm. After I get done with this engine/pedestal mod I am going to finish up on my traveler mod. I didn't like the looks of the original traveler so I am going to take that one off and replace it with smaller tubing that is more stylish. It will have the mainsheet taken off the helm and routed forward to the mast and then to the mainsheet cleat that is mounted on a bridge over the cockpit hatch. I ultimately want to sail with the complete enclosure up with no exposure. As I go along I will post photos. Have fun and thanks again Frank if you have read this far. Tony

[TonyHouk]

Well,
I got the motor today. It was packed nicely. Top rate company that I delt with. I am getting everything together to mount the new after I take off the old engine. I received my steering cable in the mail today so that I can place the new steering box into position. I am going to have a day of mounting all the engine and electrical stuff. I will keep y'all informed. Have fun, Tony

[Frank C]

. . . your going to depleat all strength in a U channel bar ...you have exceded the purpose. All you have is a backing plate with top/bottom plates going accross with no structual forces because of the size of Hole cut in , What you have is for and aft strength and no lateral.

Dave, I don't really think I'm wrong on this (?) ...

The large hole (for port transom thruhull, pictured earlier) doesn't really impair the strength of the channel too much. The top/bottom rails are still providing real rigidity to the entire width of the transom. However, that notch they cut into the top rail (motorwell drain notch) was a mistake. The correct approach would have moved that motorwell drain forward (and enlarged it), leaving the top rail unmodified.

Nonetheless, after ten years in service, my transom has zero-evidence of undue stress. I remain convinced that my full-span C-channel bar (about 54" long) is still way better than the alternative. Photo below shows Billy's inner transom plate, a qtr-inch flat aluminum bar, spanning only the distance across the motor mount. I think Mark used a similar method, and reported later that his transom failed after the outboard leg struck a submerged object.

The full-span C-channel simply MUST ADD lots more strength than a flat AL plate, and it's full-span, Rudder-to-Rudder~!
If I was going to mount a 90+, I think I'd be changing the motorwell drain, then using exactly the same C-channel.
See my Transom Album.

OnEdit: corrections per Billy's comments below.

Billy's Inner Transom Plate at Stbd Engine bolt


Full-Span C-channel, rudder-to-rudder (engine bolts hidden behind the motorwell)

[beene]

Hi guys

For what it is worth, here is a pic of the plate I installed in the inside of my o/b motor well....



I installed the same bar as seen above on the inside of the aft berth.

My motor is 380 dry and prob 420 all in.

G

[Billy]

OK, guys, here's what has worked for me the past 6 years with no signs of any failures. I used 2 aluminum plates 1/2"x4"x13.5" stood vertically. The top of the plates were notched to fit the lip of the transom. I wanted to create a bigger footprint for the engine mount to push against. On top of the plates I mounted transom wedges. I strongly suggest these along with the reinforcements. This will give the engine a better angle of attack in keeping the bow down on "take off" as it tucks the prop a little more under the transom.

Inside the well, i used 1/4"x2.5"x14" aluminum flat bar. This piece needs to be shaped with the curvature of the well. Not just the ends but the entire piece will need a slight bend. I actually overbent the bar so the contact would be more equal. (This is where Mark's installer did not follow directions and had bad results.) The purpose of this bar is to spread the load when extreme reverse is required. BTDT.

I didn't have time to photo the inside today, but it consist of another aluminum flat bar running horizontally. Just saw it in upper post, Thanks Frank. That was mine, not Mark's and it hasn't failed. This bar also serves the save the rear in full reverse.

So basically I have 2 bars mounted vertically & 2 bars mounted horizontally, sandwiching the transom. Also used silicone around the bolts (not 5200). One day it may need to come off. Hopefully this is what Tony & AKCoastie wanted in their emails. If not, email me again with any questions. Good Luck. And Tony I know you're going to enjoy that engine. BTW, Mark's boat is now in NC. Talked with the owners last year.

[rowdy]

Best of luck with a 115. I had a 115 hp Suzuki on my boat. The first attempt at transom repair ended up with a cracked transom. I then had it reinforced inside and out with transom plates and fiberglass "knees."

Mark

[Frank C]

Billy,

Since you've lost your previous transom pictures, note that I've saved some of them in my Transom Album. You're welcomed, of course, to copy them, or I can email them back to you. As you look thru the album, you might notice some are mis-labeled. I somehow confused your pix and Mark's pix. Please let me know and I'll correct the labeling.

FWIW, my dealer appealed to Roger for approval to mount the Suzi-60, back in Aug '99. Roger laughed at his request for a warranty extension! However, Roger also told him he thought the basic 26X transom design was pretty darned sturdy. Roger suggested he span the entire inner transom, as pictured above. Since your Suzi-140 hasn't caused any problem for your transom, I suppose Roger's initial assessment was pretty accurate.

[Captain Steve]

Tony, what i s the source for the motor. Your valve handle mod is still performing admirably .