Genoa Track Install Advice

[taime1]

So I picked up a couple of 24" tracks and am looking to install them once the snow melts, if it ever melts. I am wondering exactly how to install them further aft of the existing genoa tracks and would appreciate some sage advice.

What kind of backing, if any is required? Should I build fillets?

I plan on using Life Caulk around the drilled holes, in the drilled holes and smothering the screws with it too.

If anyone has done this, I'd really appreciate a bit of a step-by-step on how to get it done.

Sylvain

[kevinnem]

obligatory first post asking why you need a new set of tracks behind the existing ones?

[taime1]

Primarily for bimini and track-mounted cam cleats.

[Boblee]

Thought the cockpit mounted tracks came standard but because I bought the spinnaker from the factory perhaps not.
Anyway I never use the track but find a staunchion mounted block is better and it lets me fly the spinnaker further back and would probably do the same with a genoa(if I had one).

[taime1]

The tracks are standard from the factory but they do differ a little between the and the . On my , there is about a 3-foot spot of space between the existing genny track to the aft mooring cleat. By adding some track, I hope to be able to to move a bimini around a little as needed for better sun coverage. I also want to use the cam cleats in a more convenient way by getting them closer to the helm, making single-handling that much easier.

I think I would need some sort of backing in addition to washers, but not sure of the forces in question. The boat is still covered up and it's still too cold to get at the project for the moment. I'm trying to line up whatever screws, tools and materials that I'll need.

[Russ]

My bimini is permanently mounted. That is, not on the track and I can't adjust it.
Interesting idea. I've never thought about moving the bimini. It seems to work fine where it is.

I just don't see the benefit of moving the cam cleats. This will change the angle of attack and sail shape. My cam cleats work fine where they are.
This is what I use and I can operate them fine from behind the wheel.


From here http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=37

Now if you are dead set on adding another track, then definitely back them up with something. If it were me, I'd use a block of wood and washers. Make sure you seal the holes VERY well. I believe Macgregor simply backs them up with washers. Probably sufficient with the load distributed over several bolts.


--Russ

[taime1]

Thanks Russ,

I have the EZ Cleats from Bill at Boats for Sail, similar to yours. I haven't used them yet but I'm thinking that if I can get them a bit closer to the helm, it might be better and leave more room for the genoa car on its own track. I don't think there will be an effect on the sail shape if the sheets are run through the cars and then to the cleats, wherever they are. I might be wrong on that though.

The mobile bimini is more the admiral's idea - but I think it makes sense to be able to move it around whenever we feel necessary. It may well be one of those things you think would be handy but never actually use much.

Either way, I have the tracks and want to put them on. I was thinking of using the shaft of a hockey stick (Canadian, eh?) as backing and running along the length of the track and bolting through it.

[Russ]

I would imagine the hockey stick is a hard wood and make a good backing. That's what I would do.
Make sure you seal it well. You won't have another chance and water WILL try to get in those holes. Use 3m 5200 or 4200 sealant. Do NOT use household grade caulk or silicone.

I suppose you could move the EZ cleats further back. I have an M so I don't know if it would buy you much, but why not if you are adding another track. Those EZ cleats are so nice.
My bimini has permanent rear mounted rods. It can't be moved at all. But why not try it if you are adding another track.

--Russ

[Seapup]

I just did this mod on my X, It is a PITA.

I removed the stock 2' track and replaced it with a 7' track. I have a 6' long bimini that can slide from behind the boom to over the comapnionway on the track. I will also be using it for the spinnaker I picked up over the winter.

You will need 16x 1/4-20 Flat head machine screws 1.5" long, nuts and 1-1/2" fender washers. (one machine screw every 4" of track)

Have a good quality phillips head bit (large #3 or #4) and someone that can hold it without letting it spin while you tighten (not your girlfriend.... )

I would not use a large backing plate/bar. I can put up some pictures up later. The underside is very rough and uneven. On the 1.5" bolts I had anwhere from over an inch to barely any threads coming through. There are a lot of rough ridges and sloppy fiberglass underneath that would leave a flat bar only touching in a few places. The factory used 1" fender washers.

You will need to cut at least one access hole under where you want the track, I used a 5" hole saw. The foam blocks have to come out from the front access. If you want to add anything else ( I added 4 more matching stainless cleats) now is the time to do it while all the foam is out.

[taime1]

Thanks for the tips Seapup. Pics would be great also. I didn't realize this would be such an undertaking - but it's doable.

What did you use to close up the 5" hole? In my mind, I had thought of cutting into the liner with something more along the lines of a 1" hole to each of the bolts and covering up with plastic caps. I hadn't thought of the foam inside getting in the way.

Do you know the dimension of your bimini?

[Seapup]

What did you use to close up the 5" hole? In my mind, I had thought of cutting into the liner with something more along the lines of a 1" hole to each of the bolts and covering up with plastic caps. I hadn't thought of the foam inside getting in the way.

My boat came with the white plastic covers under all the seats which I eliminated a while back.

The problem with small holes is that the track is about 20" up from the liner, so you need a steady hand and a very long extension. Basically you have to work by feel contorted sideways/upside down without getting your head stuck, and up to your armpit in a fiberglass hole in trying to reach all the bolts. Meanwhile hoping your partner is on the same one topside.

Here is a bit of a look inside from when I was working on it.



The upper two access holes are for the genoa track and additional dock cleats, one would probably be enough under a 24" track to reach all the bolts. The other hole was for a stern anchor mount which was just as much fun



The access holes covers are covered up by a shelf I added. The foam comes out through the factory black lexan covers.

[Seapup]

Do you know the dimension of your bimini?

The bimini is a generic 1" tube "73-78" wide 72 long and 46 tall. My original one was about 55 long and 35" tall. I redid all the fittings on the new one and settled on about 40" tall. For storage I have the back legs, but to slide it more than about 2' forward I have to pop them off and use straps.

[taime1]

Thanks so much for the info and the pics really help too. Now I am itching even more for the actual spring to show up and get on this project. If I do even half as good a job as you did - I'll be pretty darn happy!

[Tomfoolery]

Seapup - not to change the subject, but what's going on with the two lights at the stern, neither of which are on the little square pad next to the rudder cleat the white stern light is normally found on an ?

[Highlander]

U can install deck plates as I did here for install #7 aft winches it will give u alot more access



J