New hoses for water drain
- kurz
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Re: New hoses for water drain
well if you guys dont want do go under the cockpit to close the through hull you can use this and put it from outside the boat:
- Russ
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Re: New hoses for water drain
You know, that isn't such a bad idea. I love simple solutions.
kurz wrote:well if you guys dont want do go under the cockpit to close the through hull you can use this and put it from outside the boat:
- BOAT
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Re: New hoses for water drain
I think for the slip boat issue that's probably a fine idea - if you can reach the hole without getting wet I suppose that would take care of it while your away for weeks at a time.
I'm not so sure that's a great solution to an emergency while out at sea.
I'm not so sure that's a great solution to an emergency while out at sea.
-
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Re: New hoses for water drain
Kurz,kurz wrote:well if you guys dont want do go under the cockpit to close the through hull you can use this and put it from outside the boat:
Those are even nice for use as a stopper for the interior sing drains. Do you have a Link for them?
- Sumner
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Re: New hoses for water drain
Using the adapter above to avoid mismatched threads is the way to go and ...
... use a backing plate that is never going to rot.
Put in 8 new ones in the Endeavour. All the steps here ....
http://1fatgmc.com/boat/end-1/endeavour ... age-4.html
Not cheap and takes a little time but you end up with a reliable and safe long lasting thru hull where the valve is always easy to replace if needed,
Sumner
============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015
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- BOAT
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Re: New hoses for water drain
I don't know what "kitty hair" is - I don't have a kitty, I have a rabbit. Will Rabbit Hair work? How do you make the rabbit hair or kitty hair? (How much of the animal fur do I need?)
Can I just replace the mahogany backing plate with the fiberglass one and do it that way?
Sumner - why does it need to be really hard to do? Can't I just replace the backboard with that fiber stuff you used and go with the stainless steel thru hull like in the picture below?? Will that work??
I really don't want to drive three bolts thru the hull to mount those triangle things. Can I just use a regular stainless thru hull? (And how do I make the 'kitty fur' glue? I guess fiberglass is not a good idea, huh. Do you have a recipe for the "kitty Hair" glue? (Do I need to kill any cats to make the stuff?) I don't like cats so it's okay with me.
.. ?
Can I just replace the mahogany backing plate with the fiberglass one and do it that way?
Sumner - why does it need to be really hard to do? Can't I just replace the backboard with that fiber stuff you used and go with the stainless steel thru hull like in the picture below?? Will that work??
I really don't want to drive three bolts thru the hull to mount those triangle things. Can I just use a regular stainless thru hull? (And how do I make the 'kitty fur' glue? I guess fiberglass is not a good idea, huh. Do you have a recipe for the "kitty Hair" glue? (Do I need to kill any cats to make the stuff?) I don't like cats so it's okay with me.
.. ?
- Sumner
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Re: New hoses for water drain
If you follow the link to where I replaced the thru-hull fittings on the Endeavour almost all of your questions will be answered, yes even about 'kitty' hair ....BOAT wrote:
http://1fatgmc.com/boat/end-1/endeavour ... age-4.html
Boat thru hulls have been put in like in your diagram above but there is problems with that and a better way. The main problem is that thru-hull straight fittings have straight threads for the nut on them. Valves on the other hand normally have tapered pipe threads on both sides. Put the straight threads into the tapered threads and you have a thread mis-match that is not good.
The adapter serves three important functions.
First it has straight threads on the bottom for the thru-hull fitting and tapered threads on the top for the valve. No mismatched threads that can leak or not provide a secure/strong union.
Second, since it is securly mounted to the hull with the 3 bolts it is strong and much better suited to providing a strong base for the thru-hull fitting and the valve above it. You show pulling the valve shut with the line. I see nothing wrong with that but those valves require some effort to open and close. With the adapter I would feel much better putting that leverage on the assembly and the hull. Without the adapter the pressure is on the straight fitting going through the hull and the wimp little nut on the inside of the boat.
Third... if you ever need to replace the valve it is easy to unscrew it from the adapter and not impact the thru-hull fitting below the adapter, which can be a problem if the valve is screwed directly into the thru-hull fitting.
Let's address the 3 additional holes required. I put in 8 new thru-hulls which required 24 of those bolt holes. None of them leaked so the odds are with you just putting in 3 you won't have a problem. You will have a much greater risk of leakage around the thru-hull fitting itself as it isn't a tight hole through the hull.
http://1fatgmc.com/boat/end-1/endeavour ... age-6.html
The adapter gives you much more chance of sealing that. View the pictures in the link above as I can't attach any more to this post.
Again follow the link to how to do this and you can't go wrong and you don't need to kill the cat and no it isn't hard but does require you to put a little time in the job. When done however you will have a reliable thru-hull that you will trust
Sumner
P.S. I've read most of this thread and I'm assuming we are talking about a thru-hull that is below the water line??? If not then forget all that I've posted
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- yukonbob
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Re: New hoses for water drain
Or forget the through bolts and bolt through the backing plate only, just as strong with no potential for leaks, ever. This guy does a good job explaining...
https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/
Colloidal silica mixes into epoxy provides a much stronger structural bond than kitty hair, thicken to the consistency of soft peanut butter.
https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/
Colloidal silica mixes into epoxy provides a much stronger structural bond than kitty hair, thicken to the consistency of soft peanut butter.
- Sumner
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Re: New hoses for water drain
Might need to move that cheek block lower or put in a second one lower to be able to pull the handle a full 90 degrees to make sure it is completely closed.
Here is a picture of sealing the base of the adapter...
... Much more sealer coverage vs. under a single small nut on a straight thru-hull fitting.
... The outside.
Sumner
============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015
The MacGregor 26-S
The Endeavour 37
Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida
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- kurz
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Re: New hoses for water drain
when you go to the pic you can see the internet adress of the shop. But it is in Germany EU... so maybe not too close to you?!paul I wrote:Kurz,kurz wrote:well if you guys dont want do go under the cockpit to close the through hull you can use this and put it from outside the boat:
Those are even nice for use as a stopper for the interior sing drains. Do you have a Link for them?
- Sumner
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Re: New hoses for water drain
That works fine also. He is the one that also has the method I used on his older web site. Same guy with really good info...yukonbob wrote:Or forget the through bolts and bolt through the backing plate only, just as strong with no potential for leaks, ever. This guy does a good job explaining...
https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/
Colloidal silica mixes into epoxy provides a much stronger structural bond than kitty hair, thicken to the consistency of soft peanut butter.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
Take your pick on which method you follow but use a good backing plate and the adapter instead of the older method where one ends up with mismatched threads by going without the adapter. As he mentions you have a choice of what to use under the backing plate as any of the ones he mentions, including the 'kitty hair', are more than strong enough for this application. The kitty hair is the easiest as far as obtaining the supplies but if you have the epoxy and other supplies it will work just as good,
Sumner
============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015
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- Highlander
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Re: New hoses for water drain
my thro hull on the transom is about 2" below the water line & my boat is bow heavy so at some point I,m either going to do Yukonbobs/sumner,s suggested mod or plug both eng well & transom thro hulls re-install a eng. well drain directly thro the transom & a new thro hull above the water line , my bilge pump & water pump thro hulls r about 6-9" above the water line
J
J
- BOAT
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Re: New hoses for water drain
Sumner,Sumner wrote:That works fine also. He is the one that also has the method I used on his older web site. Same guy with really good info...yukonbob wrote:Or forget the through bolts and bolt through the backing plate only, just as strong with no potential for leaks, ever. This guy does a good job explaining...
https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/
Colloidal silica mixes into epoxy provides a much stronger structural bond than kitty hair, thicken to the consistency of soft peanut butter.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
]
Are you saying that it's okay to screw the thing on to the backing plate without needing to screw it all that way thru the hull? That seems a lot better to me - I really do not want to add three more places in the transom where a leak can form. I don't like the idea of drilling three more holes under the water line just to mount that thru hull triangle thing.
- Sumner
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Re: New hoses for water drain
No to screwing it to the backing plate but you could go the stud method mentioned above. Maybe that is what you are referring to?BOAT wrote:Sumner,
Are you saying that it's okay to screw the thing on to the backing plate without needing to screw it all that way thru the hull? That seems a lot better to me - I really do not want to add three more places in the transom where a leak can form. I don't like the idea of drilling three more holes under the water line just to mount that thru hull triangle thing.
I didn't because I had to put in 8 thru-hulls and it was already a long job and I saw no real advantage. Also I don't have one leak with the 24 additional holes I put in and thousands of them have been put in that way as it is the more standard practice. I think you actually have a larger chance of a leak around the circumference of the thru-hull itself as it is not a pressed fit or close to it where it goes through the hull.
Prep the holes and ...
http://1fatgmc.com/boat/end-1/endeavour ... age-4.html
........ use the sealer and you will not have a problem but if one is going to loose sleep over it then go the stud route . Maine Sail has had both methods on his site and uses both and are what we are referencing above,
Sumner
============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015
The MacGregor 26-S
The Endeavour 37
Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida
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- yukonbob
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Re: New hoses for water drain
The only thing I’d be worried about thru bolting on a Mac is the skin thickness. By the time you had those bolts flush or slightly recessed you wouldn’t have much grp left, different animal when you have a solid inch of grp to bed them in. You might not even get a leak inside but could see ingress into the transom core.