Broken Starboard window

[USAF M26X sailor]

Found Kevin's instructions, sounds like something I can do away from home (without real tools). BWY is not responding to emails or phone messages, does anyone know of another source for a replacement? If all fails, when I get back to VA in fall, I'll make one following Kevin's guidance.

How it got broke is another story. Ended up sideways at my slip's mouth. Why: Not enough experience docking downwind in heavy winds; not changing to a full tank before critical Ops; lesser of two evils (messing up the tipped up outboard of the adjacient slipped sailboat).

FYI, an anchor on a bow roller of a cruiser backed into her slip versus a window...anchor wins every time. Just glad it wasn't the hull.

[NiceAft]

Sorry, but I just saw this posting and am imagining that a port window cracked? If you can remove it, or just retrieve a piece of it, a Plexiglass fabricator can reproduce one for you if they have a template of it. A template can be made out of any brown paper (supermarket bag).

Look it up in the local Yellow Pages. It could be under plexiglass or plastic.


Ray

[Frank C]

I also drifted my brandy-new 26X into a giant CQR hanging on a bow roller. In my case the anchor 'grabbed' my upper deck and absconded with a goodly chunk of gelcoat. My dealer patched over it ... gratis.
Thanks Gene!

[sailfish02]

This thread caught my eye as most of my plex windows have leaked from day one. I thought about removing and resetting, but I'd probably break them in the process. It doesn't look like surface calking would work.....

[kmclemore]

Most of the leaking comes from screw holes, IMHO, Sailfish. Might want to check extra carefully where you're actually getting your leak(s). If it's just from the screw holes, it's a pretty easy fix - remove, apply black sealant, replace... but... tighten the nuts from the inside, do not screw in the screws, as you'll mess up the seal there if the screw spins around. Needle-nose pliers work OK for that job - I've not found a socket that fits those nuts inside the nylon cups.

If it is indeed the actualy window seal, then try using a *very* sharp razor blade and cut out all the seal material on the outside where you've identified your leak, pull out the old sealant, and apply new sealant on the outside. Smooth and blend-in the edges of your new sealant (a bit of water on the finger helps) and you will barely see the differece.

You're right about removing them, you're very likely to break the glass.

On edit:
The only way I can think to safely remove the window without breakage is to use piano-wire - I've used this method in the past for vintage car windshields. Work a piece thru the seal from the inside to the outside, then with a partner on the outside, slowly work the tightened wire along the seal, cutting it as you go.

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

BWY is closed on Sunday and Monday, give them a try today.

[sailfish02]

Yay.......I love you guys. I thought it might be the screws as they were "dry" (no sealant) when I removed a couple to inspect.

I'm sure that it won't be that simple (Murphy), but if it cures 75% of the leaking, then I'll be happy. I get a lot of water in the behind the galley cabinet from the port windows (guessing), but I've actually seen water dripping from the forward pair while napping in the v-berth.

Every fiberglass truck shell I've ever had leaked from the windows.

If I was replacing the forward pair then I would go Lexan for sure, then you could walk on them.....

Thanks a million, as usual

[Lease]

Missed the first part, but have a question;

From the sounds of the post above, the sealant used on the windows is not a cured adhesive?

My front windows are ten years old and badly crazed. I was wanting to replace them this winter, but am a bit trepidatious about starting the process only to find that I end up with a border of material that I have to struggle to get out.

If the sealant is just a silicon, or similar, then I'll have a go.

Given that the front windows have to take the odd fottfall, I will probably replace with Lexan.

[kmclemore]

Missed the first part, but have a question;

From the sounds of the post above, the sealant used on the windows is not a cured adhesive?

Yes, it's a cured adhesive - 3M #4200 or 5200 (I prefer the latter - you aren't gonna pull'em out later, with any luck!)

My front windows are ten years old and badly crazed. I was wanting to replace them this winter, but am a bit trepidatious about starting the process only to find that I end up with a border of material that I have to struggle to get out.

If the sealant is just a silicon, or similar, then I'll have a go.

Given that the front windows have to take the odd fottfall, I will probably replace with Lexan.

Yeah, the stuff is basically a variant on silicon. Easy to work with, but have plenty of alcohol on hand for clean-up. I posted my window instructions to the Mods section, as you guys asked me to.

[Lease]

Thanks Kevin