With the assumption that a single piece of 5/16 Polyester braided is the best way to rig a centerboard lift line, without any metal fittings, nor stainless steel wire, nor any kind of added hardware on the board, but just a line thru the board with a simple stop-knot if the best. Note also that I have a vertical turning block installed on the deck, beside and at the top of the compression post hole, to ease the line from vertical in the trunk to horizontal on the deck, then thru a flatwise turning block near the stanchion, and back to the cockpit thru a jam-cleat. It has always been easy to raise and lower the board smoothly , once the board is free to move ( without side-forces against it ) , just by hand with the line, and without any molding or kinking of the line across tight turns.
After alot of thought, measuring, and layout of the parts, and based on the prior thread a couple of weeks ago in this forum detailing the arrangement of the lift line and knot, It seems to me advisable to make a second hole in the centerboard lift lne depression area, to allow the knot to be tied on the depression side, and then the line exit and re-enter the other un-notched side to come out of the centerboard on the notched side thru the new hole and then up to the place in the trunk where it goes into the compression post and upwards. In order to avoid the line rubbing across the knot when lifting and lowering, the knot has to be below / foreward of the last point of it's attachment to the board. And in other words, the line has to finally exit the board above / behind the knot, to avoid interference, because they are on the same side of the board, the knot and the lifting length of line. "Above" referring to the situation when the board is raised, retracted into the trunk, horizontal, and with the hole in the board nearer the top of the trunk, and "behind" referring to the board being lowered when the line is at a slight angle forward from vertical to its attachment on the board, and then behind (aft of) the original hole. This means the new hole in the board ( 3/8 " or maybe 1/2" at most ) has to be drilled in a location of the depression above / behind the original hole, because the original hole is near the bottom of the depression ( near the center point of the board ) and centered in it so there would not be enough room in the depression for the second hole to be sufficiently far from the original to maintain strength and avoid a lump in the line from making a hair-pin turn exiting and entering the board on the off-side. I think this is my plan, because it solves the interference question about the line and the knot, and because it can keep the holes thru the board sufficiently far apart, and because it actually should improve marginally the leverage of lifting the board from a point farther from the vertical of the pivot point, and and at a lesser angle from the compression post in the trunk, for the first several inches until the line starts pulling straighter up the compression post to finally an almost exact vertical from the deck to the lift hole in the board, when fully raised.
OK, if this made sense to anyone intimately familiar with this hull cavity and hardware and centerboard, the QUESTION is ;Have I missed anything, assumed stuff that is not true, forgotten any potential considerations, or made any false or unfounded conclusions.
To recap, I am replacing the prior installed 5/16 " Polyester lifting line with a new one, the old previous line having frayed where it rubbed against the back edge of the board, going from the lift-point hole in the board across the back edge of the boardl. The line did not have significant wear along its length involved in passing across the exit point at the top of the trunk where it enters the compression post, the way some owners have observed. That turn is apparently smooth. The PO had run the lne from the knot in the depression, thru the board and out on the off-side, where the length of it that touched the trunk wall did not have the relief of the notched area. I want to run the line on the notched side, so it does not rub as much as it could on the back edge of the board coming from the off-side, and also have the knot in the line where it would rub the least on the trunk wall. On the off-side away from the notch, the line would have only its single thickness appear for an inch or so, and in an area where the board is thinner from its hydrofoil shape, so its contact with the trunk wall on that side would be minimal also. 
Good suggestion, 
