Motor Purchase and instalation

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Matt19020
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Motor Purchase and instalation

Post by Matt19020 »

Well after contacting five dealers in seach of purchasing a motor for my new Mac. I have ended up with no options. Four of the five dealers told me they would sell me a motor if I purchased a boat with it, and one told me to bring the boat over and they would consider it. So after being disgusted with my choices I found someone to ship the motor to me and I can do the instaltion myself. I can't say If I made the best choice however I think it was a good choice. I decided to go with the Suzuki 4 stroke DF70. I am growing tired of searching and calling dealers with no results. The motor shipped to me is $7050. and it will take about 2 weeks. I figure I can do the whole install for about $7600 total with tanks, guages and a Uflex B184 controller. Does this seem to be a good ballpark price for a 70 HP install? and does anyone know the length of the control cable?

The website for the motor is http://www.lmcboats.com/mypage.html?pg=SuzukiOutboards

I will be documenting the process as I go if anyone has any questions or advice let me know...
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NiceAft
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Post by NiceAft »

Matt,

If you need some physical help, let me know. You're no more than a half hour away.

I've never done that work before, but I'm sure I can be of some help. Have tools, will travel :)


Ray
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
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Post by Bobby T.-26X #4767 »

good choice, although it's a bit heavier than a traditional 250# 50hp.
i admire you for doing it yourself.
a "best price" traditional install for a Tohatsu 90 is at least $8500. while an Etec 90 is more like $92-9500.

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki
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argonaut
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Location: '97 26X, Yammy 40 4s, Central Fla.

Post by argonaut »

I'm in the same "boat" with my X and nearly convinced to go the Suzi route, except the smaller 50. I've seen an '06 model DF40 reincarnated after the idiot owner's kid flippped the flats boat goofing off, so I know they're durable engines. They had it purring again the same day after being sunk.

No way I'd install anything bigger than a kicker myself though.
I'm wondering how installing it yourself will affect your warranty.
Suzi's have an onboard computer and scads of sensors, the mechanics use a laptop to test and configure them when they do the install.
But at least if yours works I'm pretty sure the 70 will get you up on plane.
deja_vu
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Post by deja_vu »

I installed my Mercury BF60 myself, as long as you can get an engine hoist it's not that big a deal (I had a worse time running wires for fan up front and some speakers). It's basically 4 bolts, wires to the battery and ignition harness, and cables to the throttle/shifter attach the prop.

I do recommed once it's all setup you take it to a dealer that works suzuki's and have them do an inspection/final setup. Basically the same thing they would do for an engine at the start of the season. I had a local shop do that to make sure it was all signed off on. That way if there were problems I could point to an official Mercury dealer giving it the ok. It cost a couple hundred bucks, but was far cheaper than the $700-800 that people were quoting me for just the installation labor.
albion
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Post by albion »

Bill at Boats4Sail took me to OX-BO MARINE it cost me $7295 to have a Suzuki 50hp installed on my new MAC. It was worth the trip from Ohio for the $$$$ I saved :macm:
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

We purchased an 05 M with an 05 Mercury 50 BF. The cost of the motor installed with proper prop. steering cables, console controls, battery cables, tach and a fuel tank Etc etc. was as I recall $7450.00 Done complete . Bill@Boats 4 Sail does not sell or install motors. Was it a DEAL? No and surly not a steal but it saved me time and concern. The only part of the transaction I am unhappy with is the battery cable . This they said was outsourced and came in short by several feet. They then to get it out on time , spliced the cable in an unsatisfactory way IMHO. Though I admit 2 years later I have yet to repair or replace said cable.
A bit of a side bar here
I am making plans to take a course in proper Marine Electrical and Electronic installations and will be purchasing a somewhat expensive
Green lee hand pump hydraulic press capable of pressing # 12 = 250 mcm connections to 4500lbs that will assure a cold flow product result. This will enable me to press fittings on both electrical cables and rigging swags . From what I am hearing this is a service that is lacking in all but the most Expensive and Elite Boat Yards.
I am also spending the time to learn how to properly and artfully splice any and every type of rope in many or most configurations.
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Matt19020
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Post by Matt19020 »

It apears I am in the balll park for the price.
I am not worried about installing the motor. I know a boat is different but some of my other projects I have tackled were a frame up restoration of a 1928 Model "A" and a Suzuki 1100 motorcycle and both are still on the road today. I like the feeling of knowing I am responsible for the install. I tend to be a little to cautious with my work. I do plan on beefing up the transom with either alluminum or a SS plate.
I am planning to take it and have it checked and tuned by a dealer to validate the installation and warranty.
Does anyone know the proper control cable length for the throttle? and has anyone ever mounted thier motor on a rubber dampening pad. I did this for a smaller motor (5hp) but not one quite this heavy, it did cut down on vibrations.
deja_vu
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Post by deja_vu »

Can't say for the Suzuki, but since it's got to run the same length, I don't know why it's be much different than my BF 60. I ran 15 foot cables on mine which gave enough to leave a bit of a loop on it so when the motor tilts it doesn't bind.
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Matt19020
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Post by Matt19020 »

Thanks Deja_Vu that was one of my concerns. I am looking at 14'. I think what I will do is mount the motor and take a hard measurement with the motor up and down. and then mount the controller. This way if I need to adjust the height of the controller to allow for any slack +or- it will not be after the holes are cut...
waternwaves
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Post by waternwaves »

Dive,
If you want to use a small portable mulituseful hydraulic system for nico sleeves and other standing rigging,

It's is hard to beat the 10 T hand operated portable hydraulic power pack unit from Harbor freight, BTW, you need to put a calibrated pressure gage in a tee, (it did not come with a gage or Tee fitting)

I just wish some american made company would sell something similar for only twice the cost. I hate to recommend foreign products for anything.

I machined my collet jaws out of steel and have found this combination handy for sailboat rigging and general auto body/frame touchup.,
between that and my 20T frame press Swaging is a snap now. Since I have only swaged aluminum. low carbon and SS fittings, I would be interested in how the greenlee works with Med/HI Carbon steel, especially if you are going to try chokers and hawsers.
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Divecoz
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Post by Divecoz »

Waternwaves:
I am looking at the Greenlee CCX battery crimp-er 12,000psi
Or converting their Battery Gator or hand pump Quickdraw punches to a crimper.
Over the years after much abuse Greenlee has been bullet proof for me .
A meeting is being set up with a Greenlee rep to discuss high carbon steel. I am used to working with soft metals Copper and Aluminum and much of my work will no doubt, be just that. From all the garbage I see coming out of boat yards and dealers . I should find a demand for a precision full barrel cold flow lug connection.
As I recall you are or have a background in Metallurgy. Is it possible for corrosion inside a cold flow connection? When we X ray or side cut a connector they appear to have become one solid unit/ wire and connector barrel.
deja_vu
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Location: Salt Lake City, UT '07 26M Merc 60BF "SnowDrifter"

Post by deja_vu »

Matt 14's would work too. I only went with the 15's cause they were out of 14's, the extra slack is a bit nice. I've been meaning to post this for ages, so here's a pic of what I was able to do with it. I've actually shoved about 6" back into the boat so there's extra with the 15' cables.

Image
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