Trailer upgrade

[csm]

Thanks for the reply MadMacX, doesn't sound too difficult. I read on Chip Hines upgrade to move the brakes to the rear axel. The brake line will have to be lengthened; is there a problem splicing the brake line or do I need to buy a longer brake line kit?

[MadMacX]

Thanks for the reply MadMacX, doesn't sound too difficult. I read on Chip Hines upgrade to move the brakes to the rear axel. The brake line will have to be lengthened; is there a problem splicing the brake line or do I need to buy a longer brake line kit?

Brake lines require a double flare on the end. Most people don't have the proper equipment to make a double flare, plus most can't even do it with the equipment. I would suggest that you purchase a new longer line. BTW, thoroughly flush all your existing brake lines before you re-fill and bleed your system.

Pat

[SkiDeep2001]

IMHO If you do a lot of trailering it is also a good idea to COMPLETELY change out your brake fluid on a regular basis on both systems,tower & towed. At least every 2 years. And some states allow triple semi-trailers how scary is that

[Kelly Hanson East]

Its not just a good idea..its it in the manual...

One thing on the master cylinder - if you convert from drum to disk brakes, you have to remove the residual pressure valve in the master cylinder by removing the snap ring from the front, removing the piston, then either snagging or drilling out the residual pressure valve from the rear of the cylinder.
Leave valve in for drums, remove for disks.
This is nicely covered on Champions website, too.

So add new snap ring pliers to that tools needed list, plus new seals for the piston. (You werent going to re-use those old seals were you??)

You can remove the snap ring with two small screwdriver-size awls too - just like Dad taught me. He also taught me to cover it with a cloth so you can find it with this method.

[madguy]

Hi all..

Hope you dont mind me joining your chat but im looking for some help if possible??

I have a 1993-94 Mac 26C with the oringinal trailer. its got hydraulic brakes and a manuel cable hand brake (park Brake). the problem is..the coupling cylynder is scrap..(no probs as i can get a 6000 coupling from Champion) and the brakes in the hub and the hand brake cables are seized. the previous owner didnt look after them very well. i have stripped the brakes down but there so rusted i cant find any part numbers or anything..Ive been sending emails back and forth to the trailer depot but not really getting anywere..and Champion didnt reply to my email...can anyone help or advise please...to make it worse...im in England and we dont use hydraulic brake trailers over here so everyone i speak to just shakes there head and say...new trailer...or new axle and coupling...

Thanks..

[BK]

I have already posted that I bought the new M trailer for my X and Macgregor did the mods to fit the X. It is not posted how much a double axel cost and all the work and knowledge it takes to change it but i paid $3000 out the door for the new M/X alumium trailer and it has disc brakes, 15" tires that hold 800lbs more than the old X trailer, F/G fenders and a galvanized axel that is twice the size of my old X axel. It does not have springs but a new suspension bar support. I think it is the way to go instead of getting a double axel. No more painting or sanding, grinding, and steel brushing the rust away each year.

[Kelly Hanson East]

I will take surge brakes over electric brakes any day of the week.

Here is a pitch for electric brakes from redtrailer..

Electric trailer brakes employ a magnet mounted inside the wheel hub assembly that when energized by the brake control, causes the brake shoes to move outward towards the drum and push against it. In contrast to surge brakes, servicing electric brakes is relatively easy; the magnet, wires, brake shoes and return springs are the only parts to service or replace, and there's no hydraulic fluid to replace and bleed. There's no master cylinder or lines to leak either.

..and I ask you, how often have you experienced a brake leak vs an electrical problem with trailer wiring (just think of how many trailers you see with a light or two out..)

Every two years replace your brake fluid, and you will be all set. For those long hills, you can lock out your surge brakes with a pin or bolt if you want.