Water in the Bilge: Condensation?

[second star]

I have recently noticed water in the bilge of my '07 26M, and am wondering if it's just condensation accumulating over a week or so between visits to the boat, which is kept in the water (Chesapeake) on a mooring. Sometimes there is just a trace, but recently (August, September) there is a bucket full.

I close the front hatch tightly, and put a strip of foam insulation to seal the companionway hatch, so I don't think this is rainwater. I see no evidence of leaks from deck fittings, windows, etc. There is never enough water to trip the float switch to the automatic bilge pump I installed, but I'm still concerned. Anyone had the same problem? I know some condensation is present when I first open up the boat on the underside of the sliding companionway hatch. Any ideas?

[puggsy]

I had SEAHORSE on a mooring for up to nine months and nary a drop of moisture inside...because the hull needs good through ventilation...I fitted a foward facing air scoop with water preventer to the centre of the front hatch...scary to have to cut the hole but did it anyway...so there was always an air flow through the whole length of the boat...Any moisture will cause mold to start so get it sorted A.S.A.P.
I would also check that there is no leak from the water ballast section into the rest of the bilge or where ever the water is found. Put some bright colour food dye into the ballast water and see if it coming through anywhere...with the back vent closed, no outside water should be able to enter the ballast section. but if there is a crack somewhere, the ballast water itself could leak in...colour it and see...Hope this helps...Puggsy

[Don T]

Hello,
Fluff a little powder inside the hull spaces so you can see traces of where the water is traveling. That much water will not be condensation it is most likely the chain plates for the shrouds where they penetrate the deck.............. or the hardware mounted to the deck. I found, on my boat, that the curve of the deck was not properly compensated for when the hardware was mounted so eventually water passed down the screw shaft to the deck liner then across to the hull and down below. I have an X so it did this invisibly, an M would have a wet trail on the carpet liner unless it is getting behind it some how. Also water can get passed where wires for the motor penetrate the motor well.

[Québec 1]

I have water starting to come in and I'm pretty sure it from the rub rails. Once it stops raining for a few days I will put some seal and strip caulking along the top edge of the rub rail and see if that works . If it does I will replace it with 5200 after a week in Florida ...probably this spring.
Q!

[TAW02]

This all depends where you see the water puddling-up at.

I have an 07 M myself and noticed I was getting water collecting around the battery area and often water in the area above the batteries. Seems water was running up from the stern area along the portside wall.

Right away I suspected the water to be entering in at the steering rod that enters through the wall in the stern pocket area. Turns out I was right. As it rained or I was washing her, water would collect across the surface of the rod and run into the boat, drip off (the rod) and land along the sole and wall area portside, then drip into the battery area where it collect into sometimes a quart of water!

Solution:

Home depot. Pipe insulation to fit the rod. I used ARMACELL AP/ARMAFLEX 25/50 1 1/8" to 1 1/2" NOM WALL R3 Or simply fits 1" copper 3/4" Iron.

I cut a piece about 1 1/2" long and slip in onto the steering rod, then glue it in place against the wall with RTV sealant. (Makes it easy to replace if it wears out). Then I take a black tie rap (black is designated for outdoor use and is resistant against UV) and wrap the tie wrap about the center to add a 'garter spring' effect that you get with lip seal type seals. Works great and boat has never had a drop of water in it since!

Big T

[c130king]

Big T,

Any chance you could post a pic of this? I think I have the same issue.

Thanks,
Jim

[bubba]

We also get condensation in the winter mostly under the aft burth from the cold water outside and our extended stay's on our M. I am going to install Dry Bunk for our aft burth since that is usually the problem area as soon as Fisheries Supply gets some more in. Your idea of wrapping the rudder control rod with pipe insulation is great, that will keep our toes warmer any time of the year and keep it from gathering condesation that would drip on our bed covers. Thanks for the idea Second Star.

[KayakDan]

One of the easiest ways to narrow down the problem is a drop or two on the tongue-is it salty? No-it's probably a deck fitting-yes-it's likely the rubrail seal,or possibly the bow eye,something with sea water contact.

I had an incident in BVI,while sailing 12 miles offshore,heeled about 20o,the Admiral calls up to me"We have water in the bilge" A heart stopper. First instinct was to taste-no salt-no problem! It was a refridgerator drain line blocked.

[madguy]

Hi Guys...

I had a similar problem with my 26S.

chech the deck fittings....also check if you have a tow eye on the bow..(mine was loose) i checked all the holes in the hull for sink electric bilge etc....checked all the fittings at the stern.....resaeled the windows.....

I actually found out (due to a guy on this forum) it was the breath holes for the ballast tank....you can hold the round disk on the bottom and turn the top to compress the rubber a little....mines fine now....hope this is of some help..

Madguy

[TAW02]

Here is the stuff I described in above post. You can see it is split down the middle. It has a built-in adhesive strip on both sufaces of the split. All you gotta do is peel&press and it mends itself into a nice seemless tube.



Here is the data sticker on it. If you can zoom-in and read it good. Otherwise refer to my earlier post.



Here is a pic of it installed. I just cut a 1 1/2" piece off of the stuff and wrapped it around the steering rod. Pulled the sealing tapes off and pressed the joint together to form a solid sealing wrap. Then I carefully applied a thin coat of RTV on the side of the seal that is to be attached to the fiberglass bulkhead. Don't want to get carried away with too much RTV as it could squish out and glue the seal to the shaft



Then I used a small wire tye and cinched-up the center portion of the tube seal with just enough pressure to apply a good wiping pressure against the shaft. Here again, too much pressure is obviously destructive to the seal and you will have to do a do-over. No harm done. Experience is gained from doing stuff like this.

By the way, best to wait till the next day before installing your wire tye. Can you guess why?

Big T

[bubba]

Great fix making a bushing out of pipe insulation. I think I will do that as soon as it stops raining today.

[c130king]

Big T,

Great pics. Thanks. That looks easily within my capability. What is RTV?

Thanks,
Jim

[Hamin' X]

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing = Silicon Sealant.

~Rich

[c130king]

Muchas Gracias Amigo.

[second star]

Thanks for the excellent ideas--I now have an experience-based checklist to use to track the source. In any case, I'm following several suggestions on a preventative basis (the pipe insulation gasket on the steering rod and installing nicro vent or equivalent on front hatch to promote air flow). I'll be down to the boat in a few days and will do the dye in the ballast water test. Since I'm on the Sassafras River in northern Chesapeake, the salt vs. fresh taste test, however, won't help. I hate boat leaks of any kind and the admiral hates them more, so I will find and fix them!

Second Star