ETEC 50 tilt trim problems

[Mac26Mpaul]

Hi all
I have an 2007 ETEC 50. When I bought the boat 2 years back, the tilt sounded a bit sick and the PO told me that the mehanic had told him it was just through lack of use and would get better if used. Well I bought the boat of course, and since then, it has pretty much always sounded a bit sick and stopped once or twice. Yesterday it stopped for good, luckily once out of the water. It just clicks when you push the button now.

I got rid of some corrosion where the earthing wire is screwed on, and WD40'd everything, but this didnt help. I was thinking perhaps it might be worth taking a look at the fluid. Can anyone tell me how you check/change the tilt fluid and what to use?

After that, I guess it will mean getting the boat to a mechanic. Has anyone needed to replace the hydraulic tilt before?

Paul

[RobertB]

For the future, suggest you go to your local Evinrude dealer and purchase a service manual - I do this for all vehicles I own and save a ton of money. You can also call Evinrude customer support.

That said, this is what the manual states:

System consists of : Electric Motor (top left), Oil Reservoir (bottom left), Pump Manifold Assembly (bottom left), and Cylinder Body Assembly (right)

Troubleshooting:
Cylinder Leakdown
- Manual release valve seals
- External leaks

No reverse lock:
- External leaks

No operation, motor runs:
- Manual release valve open
- Fluid level low
- Pump coupler
- Hydraulic pump

No tilt down:
- Manual release valve
- Fluid level

Slow performance:
- Manual release valve
- Fluid level low
- Mechanical binding
- Electric motor
- Hydraulic pump

Unit locked in tilt up:
- Mechanical binding
- Hydraulic pump

Your reservoir holds 15.2 oz of Evinrude/Johnson Biodegradable TNT Fluid (or probably whatever West Marine sells).

The manual release valve should be set to a torque of 45 to 55 in. lbs. There are three threaded items in the reservoir/manifold assembly: one top (fluid fill), and two bottom. The manual release valve is the bottom left one. The fluid drain is probably the bottom right.

The manual has a whole lot more detail.

My personal impression is that after checking fluid, if there is just a click (solenoid probably) and the motor does not run, either there is something mechanically jamming the pump or the motor is shot.

Good luck

[Crikey]

Service manual!

Even if you're not mechanically inclined, it gives you a basis to check on whether the repair shop is giving you a snow job (sorry, bad northern hemisphere attempt at humor.)!

R

[RobertB]

The other thing I really want is the interface program to communicate with the engine controller - Evinrude seems to protect this as closely as Vovlo (automotive) does

[RobertB]

giving you a snow job (sorry, bad northern hemisphere attempt at humor.

The real humor is the imaginary snow storm we have outside - Friday we were told we may have 2 inches of snow fall - hard when it is in the mid 40's outside.

[Crikey]

Robert, if the Evinrude is NMEA 2000 compliant, then like my Suzuki, you need a digital cable and a NMEA to PC interface. After that there are several free software modules available for windows that will show you the engine data its computer is interacting with.
Here's one example (PolarCom):
http://www.polarnavy.com/main/download
Ross

[Mac26Mpaul]

THanks for comments and Robert, for taking the time to look at the manual.

What this guy describes is pretty much how it was when I got the boat, and ended up squeeling its way up and down most of the time and then finally conked
http://www.stripersonline.com/t/669074/ ... oise-issue
Common ETEC problem apparently.
Whenever you Americans mention a price for something, I usually double it in my mind, so I'm thinking that 1300 the guy mentions for replacement of the unit would mean 2 and a half grandish here

mmmm

[mastreb]

Robert, if the Evinrude is NMEA 2000 compliant, then like my Suzuki, you need a digital cable and a NMEA to PC interface. After that there are several free software modules available for windows that will show you the engine data its computer is interacting with.
Here's one example (PolarCom):
http://www.polarnavy.com/main/download
Ross

ETECs after 2007 are NMEA 2000 compliant. I've got mine interfaced with a $50 cable and it works very well.

[Mac26Mpaul]

I have just spoken to the ETEC tech nearest me (they have a very good rep so hopefully he is right in what he has told me). He said that it is not common for those units to die, infact he has never replaced one in the 40 to 50hp range. He said that the bigger ones suffer leak down problems and can be a pain but with the 40 to 50hp ones, it is the electric motor that can fail. He said he did one only last week. What happens is, they begin to rust where the wires go into them and salt water gets in.
Surprise surprise, there is all rust around where the wires go into mine,,, so hopefully that is what is its, rather than the whole thing needing replacing.
I think he said, the motors are about 360 bucks, sometimes a pain to get in, sometimes not a problem, but I can count on a coupla hours labour. He said, if this is what it is, count on 800 bucks all up, but it could end up being less depending on how easy it goes in etc.

So in the US, I guess you may be looking at under 400 if you have the same issue...

Anyway, the missus, who looked at me this morning as if the sky was falling when I mentioned 2 and a half grand, is now talking to me again, and seemed quite relieved when I said, hopefully under 8 hundred! She said, maybe within a month.....

When I get the new one fitted, I am going to coat that area in CRC from now on every time I do the trailer drawbar and breaks etc.... My boat was in the water for about a year, and there is quite a bit of corrosion at the bottom of the mounts etc. If your boat lives in the water, I would suggest you take a look around your tilt motor and protect it with something.

[mastreb]

Lesson learned: Every repair estimate is $2500, and then revise downward. Got it.

[Mac26Mpaul]

Not sure if thats quite the lesson, but yeah, that too

[raycarlson]

this is a built in income producer for bombardier,they tout the no maintenance for three years and on the third year its to late to stop issues like this where they took the cheap route,when for ten dollars more they could have used a little stainless steel like the other manufacturers do.

[aya16]

I just cant let you do that..... Look take the motor out, test it, see if its rebuidable where you are at. If not check the part number and look here for a replacement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-POWER-TILT- ... 11&vxp=mtr

Thats an example, may not fit your motor, but had like 2474 hits on power trim motors. all around 100 bucks new.
good luck.
Mike

[bscott]

If you are in a heavy salt environment you should check your zink anodes--they are there to minimize salt water corrosion and should be replaced as per the manual.

Bob

[mastreb]

Yep, sounds like the zincs wore away and were never replaced. Consider mounting a new zinc near to the new motor for additional protection.