Bow 'D'-ring issue

[Jeremy K]

Hello all, and thanks again for all previous advice.
My elderly (but new to me) M25 has a 'D'-ring at the bow which has pulled out partially (see picture). At the bow inside the cabin there's what appears to be a 'false wall' that keeps me from accessing the area where the ring should be attached; there's an opening at the top of it, but no way to reach over it sufficiently to access the area. Will I have to cut it away to access the area, and if I did, would I be able to tighten the ring in in any way?

[3sheets]

I have the same problem with my M25, though not as severe. My plan this weekend, (or as soon as I get to it), it to cut a hole in the panel above the vberth for access and the cover it with a round hatch. Then I'll have access in the future if needed. I got mine from Ebay, but I think West Marine as well as Defenders have them. Robert

[THE CUSCUS]

Macgregor used scrap wood as a backing plate for the bow rings, so I'm sure your's is rotted out like all the rest. The circular hatch is a good idea to get in there. Search this site, there is plenty of discussion on how to and what to use as backing (the piece of pipe, split down the center gets my vote for the quickest/easiest fix).

[Freedom77]

In addition to what CUSCUS says, I would suggest adding as large a metal (Aluminum) backing plate as possible. Fair Winds and Full Sails....

[Steve K]

In addition to what CUSCUS says, I would suggest adding as large a metal (Aluminum) backing plate as possible. Fair Winds and Full Sails....

This is the right way to fix it. (quote above)

I had the same problem on my D boat. Cut the bulkhead out to get access. Added a section of thick wall aluminum pipe, that I had cut in half lengthwise. I made it about a foot long to spread the load from the bow eye. glued it in place with plenty Marine Tex. I also filled in the original hole with the Marine Tex and re-drilled them, for a tight fit.

I had a spare cover, from one one of the storage areas, that I used to cover the area, where the bulkhead was cut out. I cut a panel to the right shape and fit it in place. It all came out looking great.

And...... the repair is so strong, the bow eye could probably hold the total weight of the boat, without pulling out.
I use the bow eye when tying off to my beach stake, because it puts the dock line at a very low angle (and it's easier to step over, when visiting neighbors

Best Breezes,
Steve K
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Jeremy K]

Thanks very much for the advice! I figured I'd have to cut through, but it's reassuring to hear it from the more experienced. I'll search for the topic for more info. Steve K's solution sounds great!

Jeremy

[usererror]

I had the same problem on my 22. There was nothing behind mine.

I used treated wood on my repair, which also required a new D Ring with longer threaded posts.

[Jeremy K]

You guys are just so helpful, I can't resist asking more questions!

Presuming I don't have a spare panel hanging around, and I cut some kind of hole in the forward 'false wall' or whatever it is so that I can access the bow behind the D-ring, any suggestions as to how to put the wall back together? Perhaps I could use something like this:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 8&id=95843

And any suggestions as to where to get a replacement D-ring, presuming after adding the backing one with longer shanks is required?

And one more thing: I'm pretty comfortable with cutting wood, and have various power and hand tools e.g. drill, jig saw, etc; would cutting the hole in that forward wall be similar? Outline the cut to be made, drill a hole to start, use the jig? Should I use a blade that cuts wood, or a metal blade (I'm guessing the wood blade...)?

[Steve K]

Jeremy,

http://www.iboats.com/Seachoice-Bow-Ste ... ew_id.2968

or,

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... rd=bow+eye


A piece of paneling, or cabinet stock, cut to the shape of the bulkhead and affixed with screws or Velcro, will work fine. This area is more of a finish piece than a structural member.
Finish off edges and it will look fine. Later, it will be handy to be able to easily remove it. Don't have a picture, but this is how I did mine and it has lasted great.

Best Bteezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[Jeremy K]

And as always the Mac Sailors forum folk come thru again. Thanks Steve!

[Steve K]

Happy to help
SK

[RobertB]

You guys are just so helpful, I can't resist asking more questions!



And one more thing: I'm pretty comfortable with cutting wood, and have various power and hand tools e.g. drill, jig saw, etc; would cutting the hole in that forward wall be similar? Outline the cut to be made, drill a hole to start, use the jig? Should I use a blade that cuts wood, or a metal blade (I'm guessing the wood blade...)?

I am a self admitted tool junkie, the best tool I have to make that cut into the fiberglass is a Fein Multimaster or similar recent clone reciprocating tool. Makes a clean and fine kerf cut, little dust, and no pulling/pushing of the panel being cut. A simple finished wood or plywood panel would look good (new shallow shelf?) or a piece of starboard. Hold in with screws.

[finding41]

If one is looking for a source for a fiberglass or plastic cover for in the V berth. Here is an idea. Go to the local recycle place and ask for ..... what ever you want to use. I personally have used plastic from bathtub/shower surrounds. A bit of Velcro and away you go! I am a contractor so I come across the stuff pretty often. The Velcro is perfect if you ever need to get back in to a place.
I have a couple of ugly holes and some construction adhesive residue on the front of the Starboard bench in the cabin. I cut a piece of the shower stall plastic to fit and you would never know the ugly it there! I still have access to the battery and the bilge pump that is there too.
If i could post a picture.... I'd show ya a picture. But I can't.