Marina electrical connection

[usererror]

Is the marina power connector standard across all marinas? I want to run some 110V power while I am at a slip in a few weeks. Nothing huge, just need to charge my laptop and run a radio possibly a small vacuum while I get it cleaned up a bit.

Do I buy a 30amp with a male or female twist lock end for pedestal?

Thanks!

[Tomfoolery]

Most marinas have 120V 30A service through a standard 30A twist-lock connector (NEMA L5-30R), and many also have a 15A or 20A 120V duplex (NEMA 5-15R or 5-20R) that's useful for tools on the dock. While you can pull a standard extension cord to the boat, some marinas might not think too much of you doing it, and could insist on you using a marine shore power cord to a GFCI main breaker on your boat. Using those 15 or 20A receptacles for shore power is also a violation of NEC Art. 555 (Marinas and Boatyards).

There are also adaptors to go from the L5-30 to a 5-15, but plugging a light duty extension cord into a 30A circuit that's not required to be GFCI (and probably isn't) has risks, and your marina probably isn't going to like it, either.

Best way to get shore power is by the numbers - shore power pedestal (on the dock) with a 30A branch circuit for each receptacle, marine shore power cord, marine power inlet on the boat, and a GFCI breaker with reverse polarity protection, downsized to 20A if no distribution panel is on the boat to break it up into more than one branch circuit.

[mc2]

you will want a male end to plug into the marina power pedestal, I believe it is a NEMA L5-30P

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-2611-Lock ... ords=L530P

[u12fly]

If your boat does not have a shore power connection on it, you should install one yourself or have it done. As stated earlier the 30A marine twist lock is the standard connection on most small boats. My shore power is mid ship on the starboard side, something I inherited from the pervious owner. My preference is to have the shore power at the transom high up under the lifting rear seat. I have a 25' shore cable (30A) and it barely reaches, but works in most locations... I would really recommend to 50' cord especially if you have transom plug and the boat happens to be in the slip the opposite direction. Marinco is really the leader in the area of shore power connections. In a addition to my main cable I have a couple of "adapters" for those odd marina's that don't have the 30A connections. Marinco makes an assortment of those and you can usually find good used stuff on eBay. http://www.eelshorepower.com/index.php? ... n=homepage

[Sailor Dale]

Anybody tried this system? Seems pretty easy to install, but might be at a premium cost?

http://boatwiringstore.com/boat-wiring/ac/

[mastreb]

Anybody tried this system? Seems pretty easy to install, but might be at a premium cost?

http://boatwiringstore.com/boat-wiring/ac/

It's not unreasonably expensive since it comes with the necessary cables and connectors. In almond and white plastic without remote outlets, it's $285. The galvanic isolator is unnecessary on a Mac.

[Catigale]

Isn't 285 just covering the main panel?

For battery charger and laptop, I would just bring a marine cord and an adapter.

At m old marina, crusty of Tony would cut any extension cord he saw attached to his shore power.

[Tomfoolery]

Isn't 285 just covering the main panel?

It covers the panel with breaker and mounted duplex, plus the plastic inlet, and some wiring. The SS inlet is $35 more. Seems a little pricey, and additional receptacles are $25 per. But it looks like it fits the space next to the companionway on the port side, where my 12V panel is now, with room for the single vertical 12V panel too.

[Russ]

For battery charger and laptop, I would just bring a marine cord and an adapter.

I agree. If he wants to leave the boat plugged in all season, a proper system is in order. But for the rare plug in of laptop and charger, a marine grade cord and adapter would be sufficient.

[u12fly]

For my laptop computer, I went out and bought a 12V cigarette lighter plug in (it converts 12V to 19V for the Dell laptops). I just charge/run my computer from the boat's house batteries, this way does not matter if I am on or off shore power. I have one 110V plug (a GFI) mid ship near the dagger board (up high), and several 12V plug around the boat.

[Russ]

Anybody tried this system? Seems pretty easy to install, but might be at a premium cost?

http://boatwiringstore.com/boat-wiring/ac/

It's not unreasonably expensive since it comes with the necessary cables and connectors. In almond and white plastic without remote outlets, it's $285. The galvanic isolator is unnecessary on a Mac.

I see no mention of a dockside cord. So that's another $80-100. Again, great setup for permanent shore power, but for the rare plug in,it seems excessive.

[usererror]

Options, options, options!

In the long run, I will need to do it right. I am planning on living on the boat next season, 2014. But for the few times I will have it in a slip between now and Labor Day I just need something to 'get by' for the occasional week here and there. I sold my house and am on the road every week for work right now and living on the boat in a slip next year seems like my best and most fun option and significantly cheaper than renting a house, but that's a whole 'nother discussion.

The website lists the following:

Amenities include: Diesel Fuel, Gasoline, Waste Pump-out,30-and 50-amp electric, Wireless Internet, Boat Launch, Restrooms/Showers, Bike Path, Ice, Open-Space, Fine Dining and Shopping (bla bla bla)

I will walk down the piers this weekend to see what kind of cords other folks are using.

If/When I do a perminent wiring job I am definitely going to need some help. I just finished reading FIx it and Sail it this week. Granted my boat is no where near his condition! But right now the electrical panel with switches, etc is near my feet under the galley table. He moved his and I can't figure out how he did it without having everything exposed outside the companion way. I've seen some other pictures with folks having theirs near the wooden 'bulkhead' that is just behind my galley table. If I were to put in the twist lock connection for a shoreline connection I would want it somewhere near the viewports, I would think? I see all of you that responded have 26's those are mighty bigger and have more room to work with! I do have a side rear seat near the transom that opens up into the storage area. Perhaps that would be a better place.

If you have pictures of your wiring handy, please post so I can get some ideas. I don't want to do anything the wrong way. The thought of water and electricity and me has me a bit freaked out. But I do need to be able to not drain my single battery that only charges when the outboard is running.

As always, much appreciated.

[bobbieaw]

I'll start my reply with...."This is the wrong way to do it!" But since you are cruising around the Great Lakes, I figure my numerous entire summers staying in 100's of marinas on Lakes Michigan, Superior, and Huron could help....

Go to your local big box lumberyard and buy a 100 foot powercord. The kind you would power your average weedeater with. Swing by the electrical area and buy the Male 30 Amp plug AND a GFI Outlet with cover and a plastic receptacle box. Cut 20 feet off the end with the 3 prong plug, wire the remaining 80 feet to your new 30 AMP plug. Take the 20 feet you cut off (with male 3 prong plug) and wire your receptacle making sure to keep your polarity correct. If you are confused here...reply to me and I live 40 miles away....wired my entire house to code 3 years ago...WITH State inspection....I'll drive down and help. Leave the small 3 prong plug cord attached to your GFI outlet in a nice place to plugin (in a locker).

I used this exact set-up in a Grampian 26 sailing 1,000's of miles each year across the US and Canadian waters, and always plugged in. Never had a cord cut.... You will be able to power all you listed, an electric fan, and even a very SMALL portable heater the kind my wife uses under a desk. Air conditioning is out, battery charger is OK, forget about refrigeration with this set-up.

Again...this is NOT correct! It will work and you can even delete the GFI and just use the cord but that would even make me nervous. The GFI outlet adds a small amount of safety if there is a ground problem in your boat or on the dock. Total cost for entire project is less than $30 at big box store. Lighter cord is easy to wrap around dock cleats and 80 feet gets you around any possible configuration at the dock....

If you start to live on-board, you will find refrigeration will become very important, and while I never had it, it was the one thing I missed. If you move in this direction, a correct 30 amp circuit is the only way to go, because just the refrigeration needs a 20 amp circuit (along with a/c if you need that). The only time this didn't work was in Canada, where the dock had your average plug. The one thing I didn't have was an average extension cord long enough. I took the bus to their big box store and bought another lightweight cord....carried it from that moment on.....

Enjoy Great Lakes Sailing!!!....Scott

[usererror]

Scott,

Your reply is exactly what I was looking for. I do have a polarity tester in my tool kit for wiring so I'll be good to go. If I have any questions I'll send you a message on here. I need to get this cord made this week. The boat goes into the Petoskey Marina this coming Saturday for the week of July 4th. I did stop in at West Marine today to look at what was on the shelf there and I finally found my catalog from last season in a box.

I have one of those plastic boxes for the outlet already, actually. I built one with a dimmer switch inside of it so I could dim my non-LED Christmas lights. The neighbors complained they were too bright!

Glad to see I've got a neighbor near by!

Thank you very much!!

[Russ]

If you are going the box store extension cord route, I would at least buy a decent one that is 14/3 or better yet 12/3. Your loads don't demand it, but for an extra $10 it's a good investment in case you want to plug something bigger in.

For example, I wouldn't run a heater (1500 watts) on anything less than 12/3. Coffee maker, microwave are all big draw items.