Suggestions on use of a Table Saw

[RobertB]

Seahouse said:

When you set your fence, make sure the lash in the fence rack goes in the direction that makes the space between the fence and the blade diverge as the stock moves through it, and lock it there. I suspect this might be your issue. If the fence is not set this way it will pinch the cut stock against the back side ( that's the part of the blade where the teeth are heading in a direction that is toward your body) of the blade.

tlgibson97,
I have a Ryobi also.
This suggestion from Seahouse is the key for this saw in particular. You can make perfect, safe rip cuts, even giving just a little smidgen of room at the back end of the fence (1/32 to 1/16).
Steve K.

This is what scares me most about inexpensive contraction saws - the fact that the fences can be locked down out of parallel with the saw fence. It sounds like the Ryobi has a fence that clamps the table front and back. The original fence on my saw did also. Welcome to kickbackville with this kind of fence. A good fence only locks at the front of the saw - and locks rigidly parallel every time. The only exception to this was the old Excalibur fence that mounted with a complex cable arrangement. If you can maintain a fence parallel to the blade at all times, the chance of kickbacks is minimized.
I maintain that the best improvement you can make to an inexpensive saw, both performance and safety to to put on a good fence.

[Steve K]

The rip fence that comes with the Ryobi has to be initially set up also. It can be off square, out of the box. Part of the setup instructions includes setting up the fence itself. This is done using a framing square and adjustment screws at the front of the fence.
So you square the blade to the table and, in turn square the fence to the table/blade. Then, when locking the rip fence, it should be exactly in line with the lines, or grooves in the table (with perhaps just a tiny bit of run out at it's tail).
This works well and it's also a good idea to keep a square handi to check things while you're working. I haven't had any problem with mine going out of adjustment, but I do check it often, nonetheless. But still, these saws have to be set up, which can take an hour or so, before using them.
Not sure how an improved fence would work on this saw. The saw, table pieces and fences are all modular and made to work together. (I really like the sliding crosscut table)

A really good table saw costs thousands of dollars nowadays. But it sure would be nice to have one. The precision, the quiet whrrrrr of the blade............................

BB,
SK

[bartmac]

I guess its cold comfort but I used to own a furniture factory...and the old machinist said..."saws are OK they just cut things off....spindlemolders just leave a red line around the factory and nothing to sew back on" and for what its worth its chainsaws that freak me out the most!!

[Hamin' X]

I too, have a Ryobi table saw and set it up according to the instructions. Works fine, even when ripping long boards. As My father used to say "RTP" (Read The Problem), or in this case; "RTI" (Read The Instructions)

YMMV
~Rich

[tlgibson97]

I think the main issue with cutting longer boards on a small table due to the short fence length. If the edge of your board isn't perfectly straight it will bind. I use an 8" jointer to straighten the initial edge but after ripping a few strips I have to joint it again. It works for what I do with it but I couldn't build cabinets with it. I don't even try cutting plywood size sheets on it. I use a straight edge clamped using a Skilsaw. I nice quality cabinet saw is the last thing I really need for my shop.