Where do you run 110v Shore Power wire to below deck area?

[MaritimeMenace]

Dumb question, for those who installed their own Shore Power. How / where are your 110v wires run from the upper chases to the below deck / chases area?

I think I've seen (on other boats) a single romex line exposed from the upper trim area, to the below deck storage areas, but I was wondering if there was a more 'pro' way to run that line. 

Any and all help GREATLY appreciated!


- ALLEN

[kurz]

I rund my cable down from the anchor locker.

I allways more bow side to the dock.

[dlandersson]

On my X, the shore power is on the left/port side, not on the bottom.

Dumb question, for those who installed their own Shore Power. How / where are your 110v wires run from the upper chases to the below deck / chases area?

I think I've seen (on other boats) a single romex line exposed from the upper trim area, to the below deck storage areas, but I was wondering if there was a more 'pro' way to run that line. 

Any and all help GREATLY appreciated!


- ALLEN

[MaritimeMenace]

I’m sure I’m using the wrong terminology here. My Shore power plug will be mounted Port side of the companionway.

What I’m trying to find out is where people have their wires run, to get from their circuit breaker area, to the bottom storage areas near the batteries.

I’m going to be adding a 110v outlet as well as a battery charger and don’t see a way to sneak the wires to that lower area, so they’ll be hidden.

[Highlander]

I ran 2" pvc plastic elect. conduit down from my main box to the end of the sliding galley slider then covered it with the same carpet that came with the boat
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... k5ixlm.jpg

J

[MaritimeMenace]

Oh, interesting. I just wanted to make sure there was no hidden chase or channel someplace I was unaware of. I looks like you have to go exposed in some way. Thanks!


- ALLEN

I ran 2" pvc plastic elect. conduit down from my main box to the end of the sliding galley slider then covered it with the same carpet that came with the boat
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... k5ixlm.jpg

J

[RussMT]

Note that stranded marine-grade wire is also required for AC (120 volt) circuits on boats - the wire (commonly called Romex) that we use in our homes is not certified for use in boats, because the conductors are solid. Instead, AC circuits on boats must use 600 volt 3 conductor, stranded and sheathed marine grade cable, often called "Boat Cable."

Wire nuts (cone shaped devices with a spiral wire or plastic threads inside) that most of us are familiar with in our home lighting are specifically banned by the ABYC. Wire nuts are not designed to be used on stranded wire. Even in residential use, one of the wires must be a solid (non-stranded) wire. To tighten correctly, the wire nut will cut fine grooves or threads into the solid wire. When both wires are stranded as on a boat, the wire nut won't tighten adequately and worse yet, may actually cut or break the fine wires in the strands. Because they can't cut threads into the wire, wire nuts are subject to loosening with vibration. Finally, they are difficult to seal against water and corrosives. It makes sense that they are banned by ABYC.

http://www.sailangle.com/articles/details/id/6

[Phil M]

ABYC marine wiring standards do not approve of soldering either. In fact, I doubt any of the wiring in my MacGregor would pass any sort of inspection.

[Highlander]

ABYC marine wiring standards do not approve of soldering either. In fact, I doubt any of the wiring in my MacGregor would pass any sort of inspection.

That,s not good , I,m always looking for ways to up-grade my electrical systems when newer & better Ideals come out like I installed a Galvanic Isulator to my 120volt system over the winter , removing all those little fuse holder,s attached to the pos post on the battery & installing a labeled fuse panel identifying what each fuse is for with a little red led light on each fuse system which will light up so u know which fuse is blown with-out having to figure it out which can b a great time saver in an emg. situation
So when u see a liitle red led light on u know right away u have a blown fuse for what ever reason rather than saying jeuss I wonder why my bilge pump did not turn on

J

[MaritimeMenace]

Man, that sounds like a great idea! Do you have any pics of your fuse panel?

ABYC marine wiring standards do not approve of soldering either. In fact, I doubt any of the wiring in my MacGregor would pass any sort of inspection.

That,s not good , I,m always looking for ways to up-grade my electrical systems when newer & better Ideals come out like I installed a Galvanic Isulator to my 120volt system over the winter , removing all those little fuse holder,s attached to the pos post on the battery & installing a labeled fuse panel identifying what each fuse is for with a little red led light on each fuse system which will light up so u know which fuse is blown with-out having to figure it out which can b a great time saver in an emg. situation
So when u see a liitle red led light on u know right away u have a blown fuse for what ever reason rather than saying jeuss I wonder why my bilge pump did not turn on

J

[Highlander]

here u r
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... e6iedg.jpg

here,s where I bought them
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8479495e

J

[MaritimeMenace]

That fuse panel is great!

here,s where I bought them
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8479495e

J

[MaritimeMenace]

Sooooooo after looking around a bit, it looks like to way to get from the fuse panel area,
which will be where I'm going to install my 30A inlet... down to the lower storage area, where the batteries are located...

Is by running the new wires from the fuse panel,
below the cockpit in the chase that is between the ceiling facade and the cockpit floor,
all the way to the stern utility area, then back to the battery area by way of the 'under bed' storage areas.


I know my terminology is wayyyyy off. If anybody can correct me, I'd like to edit and use the correct terms.

[Wind Chime]

That makes the most sense , is the same path I've got planned as well.

The advice I received was;
1) to keep A/C runs out if the bilge (it can fill with water) so hang from unsdersidenif beth area.
2) Keep the plastic pipe runs with open holes for moisture to be realeased. I was going to use closed pipe runs (like you do outside the house) but was told this is bad for in boats because moisture will always get in and need a way let out. Still not sure about this?!

[Highlander]

That makes the most sense , is the same path I've got planned as well.

The advice I received was;
1) to keep A/C runs out if the bilge (it can fill with water) so hang from unsdersidenif beth area.
2) Keep the plastic pipe runs with open holes for moisture to be realeased. I was going to use closed pipe runs (like you do outside the house) but was told this is bad for in boats because moisture will always get in and need a way let out. Still not sure about this?!

Thats what I basicly done open elect, pvc piping & tried to keep the wiring at least 6" off the bilge but if u have gfci outlet hooked up properly u should really not have any issues

I see all kinds of boats with just a cheap extension cord running from the dock to the boat cabin & no way of knowing if they r grounded or reverse polarity

J