New Bunks - Pls Opine

[Frank C]

With thanks to all above for hints and advice, I can now add some info for Leon's, & everyone's, year-end trailer maintenance. My bunks were actually quite secure after six years - cannot explain why - and they were just common 2x4 studs. I ran out of patience and time, so I changed only the aft bunk at this time. The trailer under that bunk was quite rusted, so it took a lot of time to clean it up. Even so, I did only a half-a$$ed job of it. If HD didn't have what I needed - I just bailed on it! Here's my list, cost ~ $100.

• 2 PT studs, 2x4, 8-footers;
• 1 pint of Phosphoric Acid solution (plus a foam brush);
• 2 cans Rustoleum spray, special primer;
• 2 cans Rustoleum spray, gloss black (I used the Hammered finish);
• 1 abrasive disk, for chucking in a drill motor;
• 16 galv carriage bolts, 5/16 x 2 inches long;
• Galv nuts and lock washers to match;
• Box of Stainless staples;
• New ARROW T-50 staple gun (why not!);
• Bunk carpet (I bailed on this, just I/O carpet from HD)

Disassy & clean up was my frustration. The factory screws just twisted off. The bunk boards were fine, carpet was pretty thread-bare. After removing the boards, the sorry state of rust became painfully evident. Others used grinders to remove the scale, but all I had was a drill motor with the abrasive disk - way too slow! I went after the scale with an old chisel & hammer, and managed to remove most of the grunge in a couple of hours. The disk helped finish the job, but get a paint mask to avoid breathing the clouds of red dust. Finished this chapter with a quick sweep of the dry mess into a dust pan.

This was not my best work, definitely half-baked on the rust removal, but patience ran thin. Since the middle and forward bunks are still very solid, I just left them for season's end. Now I flattened a box to catch drips and slathered the phosphoric solution liberally over all surfaces of the aft trailer beam. It mixes nicely into an orange-brown soup. I left it to 'work' for a half-hour, then just hosed the residue off the edge of driveway (plants need iron too, right?).

Drying thoroughly before primer, I dragged out an old hair dryer to banish all moisture. Then came the primer, followed after 15 mins with the black Rustoleum. (Discovered now that one of my two cans was "metallic" gloss black! ... didn't look bad, but I couldn't spend all day painting the entire trailer, so I switched to the hammered-black.)

I cut the new boards an inch shorter than originals to leave some air gaps at all ends. I used the old boards to "pilot" the bolt holes into the new boards - resulting in just "an approximation." I had to oversize all holes to get alignment onto the existing trailer holes (avoiding any NEW trailer holes). I drilled a very shallow countersink for all bolts (3/4 spade bit) and then pulled the rounded bolt heads tightly below the surface.

Last step was the I/O carpet. Even though it seemed very thin, it's way too thick for neatly wrapping a bunk. Since I need to re-do this later, I just wrapped it over the top of each board (not the ends) and stapled the front and back sides liberally with stainless staples.

DONE! ... for now, anyway. I took a few pix, and will empty the camera later this week. I read quite a bit on the POR-15 website, plus forum comments across the web. Considering what I've learned, I really don't think the POR chemicals & coatings are terribly overpriced ... so I'll likely use it for my full trailer R&R at season's end.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

Frank C. -
as my teenager says "my bad"...

i'm basing the weight figure that i quoted on the published dry weight (2250#) of the "boat only" plus the weight of the add-ons that i normally carry.
- 330# motor
- 48# gas (6 or less gallons during transport)
- 100# 2 battery's
- 0# water tanks
- 50# anchor and rode
- 450# other stuff (probably less than that)
_____________

- 1000# Total (maximum stuff in boat while on trailer)

that's about 3200# of boat on trailer.
that does not include the weight of the trailer.
that's a guess...

so, you are correct, i should pay the fee (per transaction) at the public scales at the dump in my town and find out the following:

1) weight of tow vehicle alone
2) weight of tow vehicle and empty trailer
3) weight of tow vehicle and trailer with Mac X

I'll report back with the figures when i get them.

[Frank C]

My misunderstanding Bob - but if you add the trailer's 700, you're up to 3,900 pounds. Assuming you have 8 percent on the hitch, your axle-net is about 3,600 - not terribly overloading the factory's axle. It's certainly not enough to cause those springs to noticeably sag, absent some manufacturing defect. Awaiting more news ...

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

i'll put it this way...
with the trailer empty i have about 2.5-3" clearance from the top of the tire to the closest hang-up point on the fender.
with the boat on the trailer, i have about .5-.75" of clearance.

so i can do this:
1) move the fenders up
2) place the current leaf springs fasten point on top of the axel to gain an additional 2" of clearance vs. where it is currently located under the axel
3) install stiffer leaf springs so that the clearance is a minimum 1.5"

any thoughts???

[Billy]

I doubled the length of my shackles. This method is not favored by many on this board. I did use a heavier stock and made them slightly wider. When bolting them on, I torqued them down fairly good to prevent any sideways collapsing. This really shouldn't be that big of a problem since this is a trailering single axle. (Nothing like the 440s, Hemis and other big blocks we use to do this to back in the 60s. )

Over 5000 miles now and no more tire marks on the side of my hull.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

Over 5000 miles now and no more tire marks on the side of my hull.

that's what i'm talkin' 'bout!

[Jeff S]

I read quite a bit on the POR-15 website, plus forum comments across the web. Considering what I've learned, I really don't think the POR chemicals & coatings are terribly overpriced ... so I'll likely use it for my full trailer R&R at season's end.

An update after 2 years with POR-15 on my trailer to add to your data points...It has held up well. I just knocked off the scale and only ground down the really bad areas. I used their "Metal Ready" on it as well. I applied their Chassis Coat black over most of the surface (ran out). The few areas that didn't get covered with the Chassis Coat faded some (a black-gray color). They do state this will happen (not sure why they can't just put some UV protector in the POR-15). The whole thing is surprisingly chip resistant. A few spots did chip off (probably an application issue). After 2 years I bought another Qt of POR-15 to touch up those areas and the welds on the new galvanized portions of the trailer I had put on (2 Axles). The guy who put on one of the axles asked about the paint on the trailer and said it looked good considering it was a steel trailer in salt water, he recommended putting that same stuff on the welds. I could have easily not touched up the trailer at this point, the only reason I chose to was the welds, which tend to rust if not treated. Overall I am really impressed with POR-15.

A note when working with it. Cover yourself from head to toe to prevent it from getting on you- cover EVERYTHING around where you are using it. I had latex gloves that developed a hole and a plastic liner that had a rip. The paint on my hand took over a week (skin had to fall off) to come off and the paint on the driveway only came off with a pressure washer on the highest setting and even then only when it removed the concrete to which the POR-15 adhered.

[Frank C]

Jeff - thanks for the info on POR. Seems like a good choice to me.

... with the trailer empty i have about 2.5-3" clearance from the top of the tire
... with the boat on the trailer, i have about .5-.75" of clearance.
any thoughts???

I had to raise the fenders after upsizing to 15-inchers. I agreed w/my muffler guy's suggestion - just cutting the factory brackets to remove the fender. Then he welded a a one-inch bar on top of the remaining "frame bracket," and under the remaining "fender bracket." It worked, but looks like H&ll ... Longer shackles are a better solution, IMO, but my fenders were already beat up anyway. Prolly replace 'em this year.

My resulting clearance is about like you described ... 3 inches empty and .75" with the boat. I never had the tires rubbing (fenders or hull), past or present as near as I can tell. If the axle widths are consistent, guess it must be a difference in the spring arcs? .... Still say, "Shackles!"

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

i had a "deep" coversation about the Mac trailer last night with a fellow X owner.
he's done an excellent job in convincing me to upgrade to the dual axle.
the rational is: new springs are roughly $100 but will take alot of labor time to install. Shackles are far less, of course ($ and time).
but for $600 + $200 (2-rims/tires), a dual axle creats a mod that makes the boat so much more versatile. it allows you to travel to destinations like south of the border without the worry.
ask anyone on this site who's done the "add an axle" upgrade and they'll probably say it's the best decision they ever made.

it's sorta like the decision that many of us have made to upgrade to an engine more than 50hp.
it's the single best upgrade that i have done with my X.

so, bottom line, i'll try some $4 shackles, and see how that works.
but will ultimately opt for the dual axle.

[Divecoz]

I am asking all those who now have dual axel trailers . . . with Pride Aside would you do it again ? I know from the that dual axels can make it harder to backup and sometimes make corners going forward as well . But all in all is this a good idea and IYHO is the "kit " above a good idea ?

[Jeff S]

I am asking all those who now have dual axel trailers . . . with Pride Aside would you do it again ? I know from the that dual axels can make it harder to backup and sometimes make corners going forward as well . But all in all is this a good idea and IYHO is the "kit " above a good idea ?

Yes. I did not want to travel 2500 miles on one axle so I upgraded to 2 axles. I paid about $900 for the parts (Champion) and about another $300 for the labor (complete assembly and welding- I was too busy and don't weld). The tires/wheels were another ~$250. It was expensive, but worth it. This other kit would be an even better value if it works ok. The one thing is that the existing axle will have to be moved aft to accomodate the new axle.

I would take a look at the cost of a new trailer (aluminum or galvanized) that is double axle and the condition of your existing trailer. If you sink an investment into your existing trailer on the double axle you may have other problems later! If you spend $1k on a trailer that will last 2 more years it might be better to spend more on something that will last longer. As it stands I have both axles replaced with galvanized, SS disc brakes on the rear axle, a new surge brake coupler, a galvanized tongue all the way back, new bunks, stripped and repainted trailer completely with POR-15. In retrospect I would replace the entire trailer with an aluminum or galvanized one, but it all happened sequentially so I got into it too far to justify going back. The trailer is really better than new now and I think will last longer than a brand new trailer that isn't upgraded. YMMV.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

so, bottom line, i'll try some $4 shackles, and see how that works.

i ordered, received, and installed the shackles. $.99 each.
easy install.
I went from 2.25 inch to 3 inch (center of hole to center of hole).
it raised my fenders .75 inch.
it seems to have done the trick...for now.
i'm trailering 150 miles (each way) to Channel Islands Harbor this weekend.
even though it's a band-aid, i'll let you know the results.