Mounting a Bigfoot Engine on Mac

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deja_vu
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Mounting a Bigfoot Engine on Mac

Post by deja_vu »

So here are some pictures I took while mounting the Bigfoot Engine on my 26M.

The first thing you need to do is mark a centerline on the transom. This seems like it should be easy, and while not too terribly difficult, there aren't really any completely straight lines to take your measurements off off. On top of that it seems nothing is mounted truely centered. Being the retentive type that I am sometimes, I ended up finding the center of the transom opening, the center of the metal piece at the back of the transom opening, the center point between the two rudders, the center point across the entire stern, the point that lined up best from bow to stern across the daggerboard (which was a pointless exercise seeing as the daggerboard can shift about a half inch in each direction) eventually I averaged that all out and finally just said this is good enough.

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Next you use a template from Mercury designed make it idiot proof for drilling your mounting holes. The only difficult part? Driving around town for 2 hours until you find the one shop that stocks a 17/32" bit.

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Once you've got that you done you've got this engine in a crate to deal with:

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Now I suppose if you were a real manly man, with real manly friends you might be able to somehow lift this thing onto your boat. Seeing as it was just myself, I went with technology and choose to use an engine hoist...I don't recommend you try it any other way. I used the hoist to first lift the entire engine while still mounted to the metal crate. This seemd a lot easier than trying to lift it off the crate from a horizontal position.

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Once you have it upright you can then remove the crate from around it.

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Now it's simply a matter of pushing the hoist over to where you already have the boat prepped for the engine.

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After that it's just a matter of four bolts, some nuts and washers and making sure you get it sealed up so it doesn't leak.


Based on the advise of some people on this board I mounted the engine using the top most mounting hole. This places the engine about 1/4" below the lowest point that they want it mounted, but it does allow you to tilt it all the way up with the seat lowered.

Mine still scrapes just a tiny bit and so there are some scuff marks on the engine from where it hits. The trade off is a couple hundred RPM in performance according to the shop I took it into after doing this install. Seeing as this is a Sailboat, it seems worth it to me to be able to get the motor out of the water to get as much sailing performance as I can out of the boat.
Frank C

Post by Frank C »

You're among a small group of owners who have installed a large outboard themselves. Looks like really good work, and very nice job on documenting it, deja.
James V
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Post by James V »

Nice job, I had the Dealer install mine.
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They Theirs
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Post by They Theirs »

deja_vu
Outstanding Job! Looks great….More Photos if you please.
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Night Sailor
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motor mounting plate

Post by Night Sailor »

deja, what did you use for a mounting pad between motor bracket and transom?
deja_vu
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Post by deja_vu »

No pad was used. That decision was made based on this statement from the mac website comparing the X to the M:

"ENGINES

There is no change in the engine mounting system, or the type of engines that can be used.

We have, however, widened the engine well area to allow easier bolting of the engine to the transom. The transom is now flush, and a pad won’t be needed between the motor and the transom."

Also I looked at a local boat and talked to a dealer here who had installed and they had also not used a pad.

Now I'm wondering if maybe I should have, simply due to the fact that the idle speed seems to be at the same harmonic necessary to vibrate my speakers, which gets rather annoying, a pad would probalby have dampened that. I can always put some foam between the speakers and their mount points though.
Frank C

Post by Frank C »

The other reason for an engine pad, probably more compelling, is that they're usually a wedged profile, smaller at the bottom. This permits a greater range of trim-in. OTOH, since these boats are so heavy versus the available horsepower, there's not much fine-tuning available from trim anyhow.
deja_vu
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Post by deja_vu »

Now that would make a good topic, I wonder how much differnece people notice in their speed by making trim changes. While the ride quality does seem to change on my boat, I don't see much speed change, at least measured by GPS.
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Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
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Post by Dimitri-2000X-Tampa »

I think my boat goes fastest when the motor is trimmed all the way down...even though that doesn't make good sense to me since the prop is probably not has vertical as it could be. However, I'll frequently give it just a nudge of up trim to lower the vibration a bit.
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Prop Trim

Post by MSN-Travelers »

I can't speak for a Mac (I don't have mine yet) but in the world of power boats, trim angle can have a dramatic affect on top speed. The correct trim angle is the one that keeps the boat on plane. Weight distribution on the boat will change the "sweet spot". I have a bowrider I/O and have to adjust the trim angle when my passengers move about the boat. Down angle on the trim will lower the bow and help get/keep the boat on plane when too much weight is moved toward the stern.
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Post by Catigale »

Ive never seen any effect on speed at mid rpm range 2000-4000 trimming up/down with my Mercury 50 HP BF 14x10x3 or 14x11x3 prop

2002 X of course

I only run WOT once a month or so to tweak the engine and havent explored it up there at 15-20 mph.
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