Craig LaForce wrote:I would like to simply replace my scratched up and badly crazed windows. Anyone have thoughts on who might do this kind of work? Would an auto window glass place be able to do something? Are they plexiglass, lexan or what?
Not urgent, but eventually it would be nice to have clear windows again, and I a have no talent for that kind of work.
I just replaced my starboard forward dinette window this past summer. Yeah, you could probably get a glass place to do it, but actually it's not hard at all - why not just just do it yourself? It doesn't really take 'talent', just a couple hour's time and some work.
You may not decide to replace your own yourself, but I'll document my experience for anyone else that's considering it, and, who knows, maybe you'll take on the challenge!
ETCETERA, and you're done!
GEEZ KM I thought you were writing a book after reading your post. LOL
albion wrote:GEEZ KM I thought you were writing a book after reading your post. LOL
Yeah, well, it was late at night and I couldn't sleep anyway... figured I'd write it all down so I could at least put the rest of you to sleep reading it!
But geez, Albion, did ya have to quote the whole blasted thing all over again!??!
When I replaced my v berth window I bought it directly from macgregor. Cost was less than half of what the local plastic shop wanted, and I believe it came predrilled... the calk recommended by Macgegor is Dow Corning 795, which is a silicone building sealant.
BWY recommends using black silicone adhesive caulk to bed and seal the windows. Just received my new windows with instructions. I am replacing all of them. Here is what #2 on the instructions says:
"Use only silicone sealant to bed the windows, to match the look of the other windows, use black silicone. Using any other type of sealant may damage the window."
If anyone can explain how to post a picture of the instructions on here, I would be happy to do so.
Last edited by azav8tor on Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
waltpm wrote:When I replaced my v berth window I bought it directly from macgregor. Cost was less than half of what the local plastic shop wanted, and I believe it came predrilled... the calk recommended by Macgegor is Dow Corning 795, which is a silicone building sealant.
Walt... I see you are in Buffalo NY. So am I, at safe harbor. Are you the I see every so often in that marina?
waltpm wrote:When I replaced my v berth window I bought it directly from macgregor. Cost was less than half of what the local plastic shop wanted, and I believe it came predrilled... the calk recommended by Macgegor is Dow Corning 795, which is a silicone building sealant.
That's also what Hunter used, and recommended for window replacement, on my last boat. It too had curved 'windshield' type fixed ports like the M and X.
795 is used for gluing glass panels into curtain wall frames for skyscraper construction, by the way. It's a structural adhesive, and not just calk. The Hunter used a few small screws to hold the panels in place while the adhesive cured, and I was told by their tech people some years ago that they had even stopped using the small screws and used a weighted fixture to hold the plastic in place for curing instead on later models.
Craig LaForce wrote:Insert all of the screws, putting a small dab of 5200 in each countersink as you do, and have someone inside put on the white cap-washers and nuts. Then *carefully* and *slowly* go around the window tightening the screws, a little at a time each. Take your time.
Are they screws? Or bolts with nuts?
If bolts w/ nuts, I would have thought you'd want to wait until all are tightened before putting the caps back on. Else do you not risk having the nut spin freely.
When I removed my leaking window above the head I seen what the issue was casing it to leak in the first place where the sealant was between the fiberglass & the window none of the surfaces were etched to allow the sealant to get a good grip to attach its self to either surface so I etched both surfaces for a good adhesion to get the sealant I wanted I was going to have to buy a whole case 24 tubes lol , so I did my home work & found a product called DAP which was avail. at crappie tire by the tube it had a very high strength adhesion rating designed for high vibrations & flexing like u get on a boat , reg sealants have a low to medium strength adhesion rating , so look for a very high strength adhesion rating otherwise u will b repeating ur install again in a yr or so depending on how u use ur boat
Mine is hold up fine so far have bean wondering how long I,ll have to wait for the other side to start leakin
Hello,
I thought I posted to this before. I have an early 26X (actually marketed as a 2600 in 1995). The windows are all mounted with thin double sided foam mounting tape. When I had to reseal a side window I used the same tape but followed it up after installing with black silicone around the outer edge. I masked off the window and fiber glass opening so I could work the sealer in and smooth it. Then I just peeled the tape for a perfect job. The windows have remained leak free for 20 years.
-fc
I see every so often in that marina?
