Battleship Anchor Mounting

[NiceAft]

I just read this thread, and I have to agree with Glenn:

If you go ahead with this mod you might want to add a metal plate or something else strong enough to take a hit from the anchor, you don't rip a hole in your hull while raising the anchor

What anchor you use is your own business Just be aware that with the kind of mod you are thinking about, a rising anchor might just scratch the gelcoat, or worse

Ray

[Erik Hardtle]

So I started doing the mod... figure this will be fun to watch for you all... hope sailing anarchy doesn't make me their poster child again...





I've still got the wiring to do, and alot of fiberglass work to do... post more pics as I move along.

[bastonjock]

Eric,one thing that ive been wanting to ask you,Is the mod that you done to your keel worth the effort?,does it improove the performance

matt

[Divecoz]

a couple questions here?
#1. is that the anchor locker drain, I see in the middle and aft and up rather high ?
#2. So I see you have devised a way to draw the rode into the locker can you show us where it feeds the rode to?
#3. is that a 2" Electrical ...Grey PVC 90... you used to exit the hull and enter the locker with?

[Russ]

A very cool idea and can't wait to see it complete.

But I would agree with others about the anchor type. Why not use a danforth or such instead? Same concept but a real anchor. Also, something to protect the hull from scratching, like a plate. And the chafe on the PVC from the cable might be a lot. Could you glass in a steel pipe or something to run the cable through?

[The Mutt]

Looing good Eric, is that some gal pipe you inserted, looks like it the way the end coming out the hull flairs, have you managed to keep the pipe inside the cavity holding the foam under the anchor well?

You can use waterproof cable glands to seal around the cables going to the winch, they have an IP68 rating.


Glenn

[Divecoz]

Water Proof fittings? This brings up another question ( i.e. water proof fittings for power cables) as no doubt many on this board have done this as well.
I have buried my bow , often well above where you have now cut a 2" hole into your boat. That 2 " hole now leads into the anchor locker. No doubt there needs to be another 1.5 " to 2 " hole to the inside of the boat to store your rode and chain. How is the water kept out of the inside of the boat? Are you going to affix a 5 gallon bucket inside? How will you then,when it fills, drain said container?
I am not finding fault ...........I am just seeing problems and I saw a lot of problems when I was making 30 + modifications recently to my boat and trying to get them all done in less than 2 weeks....... It seems to me now ..... that there are No Small Projects on a boat.
I see you have bell-ed the pipe as it come through the hull. I assume you will seal this real well from the inside and the outside with 5200?I assume too you will somehow wedge the bell up against the hull for 72 hours... 6 surfaces and 3 holes to water proof plus the power cable which as mentioned is an easy fix.

[The Mutt]

Divecoz

IP68 rated cable glands have the highest waterproof rating available, drill the hole in the hull, insert gland and sealer into hole, tighten, insert cable through gland tighten seal on rear of gland, the seal clamps down on the cable making a watertight bond. I'm told they can be used below the waterline.

Glenn

[Divecoz]

Divecoz

IP68 rated cable glands have the highest waterproof rating available, drill the hole in the hull, insert gland and sealer into hole, tighten, insert cable through gland tighten seal on rear of gland, the seal clamps down on the cable making a watertight bond. I'm told they can be used below the waterline.

Glenn

Thank You Glenn , but I am very familiar with these as I am in the industry...BTW IP rating is with ONLY specified cable types YSYK
your mention of them only tickled my brain to think of other problems concerning waterproofing of this project.
Anyway ........ hows this project going???????

[Erik Hardtle]

Ok... Q & A time:

Bastonjock:
I have been pretty happy with the weighted centerboard, I don't miss the sudden heeling and don't have to fill the ballast tanks in light wind.

Divecoz:
1. That is NOT the locker drain, it is the Air Hole for the Auto Fill Ballast Tank Mod... you can see the mod on my web page or in the mod section on this site.
2. The rode is stored on a reel (see pic) I had to go with 5/16 rode so I could get 90 feet on the reel... might get 100 when it is tightened, could only get 50 feet of 3/8 rode on the reel... still testing.


3. shhh.... yes, I will be wrapping it with a lot of fiberglass.

RussMT:
I do have a Danforth... but the tangs are pointy... and I use the other alot. I will be looking at how the anchor lies on the side and what reinforcing needs to be done.

The Mutt:
It is PVC 2" and after fiberglassing it in I will be shoving the foam back into the anchor well. I am just going to use 5200 to seal the wire holes.


Divecoz:
The pipe will be fiberglassed in and there will be no way for water to get into the cabin. The rode is stored on the intergeral reel (see pic above). I doubt I will ever be in a weather situation where I would bury the bow of the boat... especially with wife and kids on board.

Thanks everyone for the input... helps think of things (obsticales) I haven't thought of. Finishing up the wireing now, will be doing the fiberglass over the weekend. I'll post more pics after I get all the fiberglass off me...

[Erik Hardtle]

Construction in Progress

Fiberglassed the top and bottom of the hole:



This shows the pipe underneith the Anchor locker:



Here is the same pipe now wrapped in 2 coats of fiberglass... sorry no points for neatness:



Next, sanding and Gel Coat.... Same Mac Time... Same Mac Channel...

Erik
"Knot Shore"

[The Mutt]

Here is the same pipe now wrapped in 2 coats of fiberglass... sorry no points for neatness:
Erik
"Knot Shore"

Who cares it's sealed away, longevity of the mod is more important.

Glenn

[Divecoz]

Construction in Progress

Fiberglassed the top and bottom of the hole:



This shows the pipe underneith the Anchor locker:



Here is the same pipe now wrapped in 2 coats of fiberglass... sorry no points for neatness:



Next, sanding and Gel Coat.... Same Mac Time... Same Mac Channel...

Erik
"Knot Shore"

Clean neat pretty.... as long as no one see's it ever again who cares but ...... much of that IMHO is over kill and some of it may be under kill....?
Having pulled literally 100's of thousands of miles of cable thru PVC pipe and often it need to be pulled time and time again or for very long runs. The real concern is pressure points and friction points. As long as that Conduit is secured at both ends you'll never break it.... You may burn thru it at friction points but you'll never break it. A threaded male fitting on each end with a threaded bushing would have held it better and you could have sealed it easier ( waterproofed it ) and dressed it smoother( prettier) with less effort. All IMHO.

[Hamin' X]

You might want to consider threading a sacrificial wear surface into the outside. Much easier to replace when it is wearing out from friction.

~Rich

[Erik Hardtle]

I actually thought about using threaded pipes... just couldn't get the angle right. I will probably be adding some stainless steel sheeting to the friction areas.

Here are pics of the gel coated hole, anchor and winch hooked up and working.







I got about 80 feet of rode on the reel... the most I usually use is about 50 feet, and 1 foot of chain... the chain makes noise so I know when the anchor is up. I can't see the anchor or the winch, but the winch will stop when the strain is over 50+ pounds... (like when it gets hooked on the trailer... hehe)

I still have gel coat sanding and more testing... but the important test passed... the wife likes it.

Thanks to everyone for their input.

Erik
Knot Shore