New owner...direction and info needed.

[dlandersson]

Pizza?

[Tomfoolery]

Just make sure the standing rigging isn't at either end of the adjustment range when properly tuned, as you don't want to make new rigging only to find out that you're out of adjustment range when you could just as easily have compensated when making new.

I wasted a good chunk of this past weekend trying to tune my with new inner shrouds, only to figure out that when the boat was first assembled with the roller furler in 1999 that the foil was cut too long so the forestay couldn't be shortened enough to make the 4 degrees reference angle to the deck (per the manual), and I wanted a smaller angle than that with some mast bend.

The moral of the story being, don't take anything anyone before you has done as gospel. Figure it out for yourself, and see if that's what you have. Just because that's how it was when you got it doesn't mean that's how it's supposed to be. And as far as my rig tuning goes, many folks here (it seems) have taken out some of the mast rake due to excessive weather helm, which is something I can attest to. Even 4 degrees is a lot, IMO. I don't know why MacGregor recommends that in the manual, unless they wanted a lot of weather helm and rounding up for beginners.

Oh, and pepperoni for me.

[morrobaymac]

Just make sure the standing rigging isn't at either end of the adjustment range when properly tuned, as you don't want to make new rigging only to find out that you're out of adjustment range when you could just as easily have compensated when making new.

I wasted a good chunk of this past weekend trying to tune my with new inner shrouds, only to figure out that when the boat was first assembled with the roller furler in 1999 that the foil was cut too long so the forestay couldn't be shortened enough to make the 4 degrees reference angle to the deck (per the manual), and I wanted a smaller angle than that with some mast bend.

The moral of the story being, don't take anything anyone before you has done as gospel. Figure it out for yourself, and see if that's what you have. Just because that's how it was when you got it doesn't mean that's how it's supposed to be. And as far as my rig tuning goes, many folks here (it seems) have taken out some of the mast rake due to excessive weather helm, which is something I can attest to. Even 4 degrees is a lot, IMO. I don't know why MacGregor recommends that in the manual, unless they wanted a lot of weather helm and rounding up for beginners.

Oh, and pepperoni for me.

I'm gonna try stepping the mast this afternoon to try and work out the rigging like you said and take notes for any differences needed in lengths when I make the new rigging. Hopefully have the cable in my hand by the end of the week to start making up new ones!

[morrobaymac]

Pizza?

Gosh, mentioning free pizza around here get some attention quick doesn't it? And I thought it was bad when the seagulls catch me with a bag of French fries.

Yup, pizza's on me...plane tickets and gas money not included.

[morrobaymac]

Oh yeah does the back stay really attach to this little sucker? Seems like it would need something a little more...sturdy....and in the center of the transom?

[Russ]

I second Tom's advice on the DMV. Years ago I had a nightmare registering my force5 and trailer. No previous title will throw them off script. You may have to get creative.

The Max X has the backstay off enter.

[Wind Chime]

... the backstay is off-center to starboard to accomodate the transom gate seat access to the open cockpit exit. Not sure why the 22 would be offset with no aft opening.

The Max X has the backstay off enter.

[K9Kampers]

... the backstay is off-center to starboard to accomodate the transom gate seat access to the open cockpit exit. Not sure why the 22 would be offset with no aft opening.

Least expensive way to clear the tiller.

[Wind Chime]

That makes sense K9Kampers,

For some reason It looked at first like maybe the rudder/tiller was mounted from inside the cockpit. But going back and looking at the other photo, it looks like the rudder assembly has the gudgeon and pintle and tiller attached and as one piece that must go over the stern gunwale ... so as you say, a center backstay chainplate would be in the way.

... the backstay is off-center to starboard to accomodate the transom gate seat access to the open cockpit exit. Not sure why the 22 would be offset with no aft opening.

Least expensive way to clear the tiller.

[Tomfoolery]

... the backstay is off-center to starboard to accomodate the transom gate seat access to the open cockpit exit. Not sure why the 22 would be offset with no aft opening.

Least expensive way to clear the tiller.

Yup. My Aquarius 7.0 (an Aquarius 23 with a transom mounted tiller rather than the through-the-cockpit-sole tiller 'cassette') had an offset back-stay, for the same reason.

The line drawing below shows both the A21 and the A23 (BOAT will like this ), but I have no such art on the A7.0. The backstay of the A21 is what mine looked like.

[peterix]

So I just picked up what is my first sailboat outside one meter R/C's. Its a 1978 MacGregor 22 that I picked up off of craigslist for $150. It didn't come with any sails, no running rigging, and has one of the spreaders is broken at its mounting bolt. Otherwise it seems to be all there, but then this is my first actual sailboat and wouldn't know if anything smaller was missing anyway. The trailer looks very solid and pretty much rust free with new tires, aside from needing new bunks its good to go.

I've read that these hulls are thin,and now that I have one I understand...they are very thin. I'm interested to know how much deck flexing is normal when pulling moderately hard on the pilots and stations. Mine gives a several millimeters at least...feel like if I fell over and grabbed one of the stations that it might just break the deck. Alas I dont want to see how strong they are, just know what strong enough is.

The liner is also quite thin, and while stepping into the cabin onto the keel channel I can hear it sort of crackle like its breaking a little bit more every time I step on it. Not like its going to break, but enough to wonder how many hundred times its going to handle it before that slight crackle becomes an issue. The same occurs when steeping on different parts of the cockpit and on deck if I put too much weight on one of my knees while crawling around up there scrubbing it. Perhaps I'm just used to larger boats with much thicker layups that don't give and flex at all when moving around on them.

Two of my shrouds have one or two broken strands. It doesn't appear as though they broke from stress, but like something may have impacted it at some point. Should I replace them, or is it a big deal to have a couple broken strands?

I haven't dropped the keel, but looking up into the pocket, its very clean and appears damage free aside from the keel feeling like its got a bit too much play in it. How much play is normal on the keel?

I'm surely gonna have a million more questions for you guys, so I've gotta say. Thanks in advance.

Nice!!! ups $150!!! NICE!!!

Congratulations, please share pics about the restoration.

[Tomfoolery]

Does it have lights? I see the masthead (steaming) light on the front of the mast, but the side lights on the bow appear to be only a green, covering the starboard 112.5 degrees. As it should, but in concert with a red covering the other side. Kind of important if out at night.

[morrobaymac]

I second Tom's advice on the DMV. Years ago I had a nightmare registering my force5 and trailer. No previous title will throw them off script. You may have to get creative.

The Max X has the backstay off enter.

That's the next order of business tomorrow, get tags for it, and then start the real work / parts shopping.

... the backstay is off-center to starboard to accomodate the transom gate seat access to the open cockpit exit. Not sure why the 22 would be offset with no aft opening.

Least expensive way to clear the tiller.

I don't know why that didn't occur to me. Make much more sense than having the tiller offset.

Nice!!! ups $150!!! NICE!!!

Congratulations, please share pics about the restoration.

No kidding. The guy was only asking $100 for it, but he said he already had someone coming to look at it, so I offered him $150 to save for me instead. There's very little evidence in the keel pocket that its ever been lowered, plus it was picked up not two miles from a lake, and looking at the keel corrosion makes me doubt this thing has ever seen salt water.

There will be lots of pics to come. So far I've pretty much only posted the, hasnt been washed just left the PO's house ones I took minutes after getting home with it.

The next steps for me are going to be tagging it, fixing the stress cracks, paint, rigging, and then electrical and interior.

Does it have lights? I see the masthead (steaming) light on the front of the mast, but the side lights on the bow appear to be only a green, covering the starboard 112.5 degrees. As it should, but in concert with a red covering the other side. Kind of important if out at night.

At night...thats funny. I sure hope I'm not caught out after dark any time soon anyway. It's probably been a while since that sucker has been red. I guess 36 years of sunlight will do that to plastic though. I plan on completely replacing the electrical system and updating all the lights to LED's.

[topcat0399]

Can't really go wrong with a $150 boat that comes with its own foredeck mounted bath tub can ya?

I have 2 things to add:

Make sure before replacing the standing rigging that that foot of the compression post and or the cabin top above the compression post have not in any way sagged. If you fit out with all new standing rigging without making sure everything is as it should be you might find yourself short. Don't ask me how I know.

Also: Your question about how the compression post attaches to the cabin roof: the way your picture shows it is typical of those earlier Macs. An angle bracket and 2 bolts. Works fine since most compression post forces are downward. On the bottom of the post its not fastened at all - its a squeeze fit.

Edit - Meant to say - find yourself a little long; with roof/foot sag comes long shrouds. I know what I meant!

[mastreb]

I concur with Catigale that the standing rigging swages and eyelets look pretty good--better than my 3-year old rigging did. A little green patina on the nicopress doesn't mean anything's wrong.

I'd go ahead and rig it and see how it all looks. Examine each swage and eyelet, and if there's no broken strands or signs of serious stress, you won't need to re-do it. You can likely work the sailmaker's thimbles inside the eyelets back into place if you want to.