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There is a test that can be done.

Dry the boat very well

Break the surface of the biggest blister that you can find.

If there is a acid liquid inside you have a Osmosis problem (I don’t think so because Osmosis needs a long time to develop)

Attention: BE CAREFULL WITH YOUR YES !

If the bubble beneath the blister is dry you have a huge manufacturing problem.

Any way you must have epoxy resin to cover the broken blister after this test.

Mi boat had a similar problem in a small area, the boat is a Mac26X and I did break al the blisters (they were dry) and filed all of them with epoxy resin. And after that more 3 layers of epoxy 150 mg paint, all over the hull.

This is called a Anti-osmosis treatment...

BUT MI BOAT IS 10 YEARS OLD.

So if I was you I would go to the dealer.

Because in a new boat Osmosis or not...

IT IS NOT ACCEPTABLE:

Best Regards

Jose

While I'm not licensed to give legal advice in California, this one sounds as if it could be a replace-with-a-new-boat situation. In most states, the law is such that there are certain warranties that cannot be 'disclaimed' regardless of how a manufacturer might try, so you might want to take your warranty and the written 'diagnosis' of more than one marine professional to your attorney PRIOR to letting anyone change the boat in any way. Be able to document where the boat has been in the water and for how long, etc. so you can show that there was nothing about the particular water where it was moored that could have caused the problem. Same goes for any hull cleaner, etc. that might have been put on the boat since you purchased it. Basically, be able to show that nothing has come in contact with the boat after the purchase that could have caused the blisters. (And it's going to be important to show that no one has changed the condition of the boat, i.e. attempted repair, until after the company is notified so that the repair attempt cannot be used as a cause of the problem or something other than the correction of the condition that was brought about through no fault of your own). The company should have the opportunity to view the boat prior to commencing repairs.

Whenever I am offered the opportunity to purchase an extended warranty on any product that I buy, I always decline by saying that I spent 3 years of my life going to law school so I would never have to buy an extended warranty Just another way of saying that new products are expected to be warranted for a reasonable period of time for reasonable things that could occur, and I would think that it is reasonable to expect the hull of any boat manufactured within the past year or so to be blister free.

I'm sure that I and many others who read of this problem would hope that it is going to be made good to you, and that ought to happen in a reasonably short period of time, since in the meantime you will be missing lots of breezes that you could be enjoying.

LMB

Bob, can you give an update to your situation.

I just pulled our '08 after her first season in fresh water. I saw a bunch of patches of blisters like what you have going on. It's still dripping wet so I'm gonna let it dry out a bit, but I was wondering what you ended up doing.

I too have the blister problem on my 2002 . I just e-mailed my dealer to see if the company can offer any help. I am going to see if the blisters go down over the winter and if they do I am going to seal the hull and apply anti fouling paint (the Zebra Mussels love my hull). I will keep you informed how I make out with my dealer (Ghost Lake recreation)

I forgot to give the final update...

According to my dealer (Boating Atlanta- who i have a great deal of respect for) my problem was most likely due to a dirty spray tip? which resulted in some issue or another - he believes that my blisters are due to styrene gas he sanded them all down and put on two gallons of epoxy. I don't need anything more as I am in fresh Water. Just put the boat back in today - so will let you know how it works out.

I don't know all the details, because he didn't give any, but he implied many times that there was NO CHANCE the factory would do anything to help...

daydreamerbob wrote: I don't know all the details, because he didn't give any, but he implied many times that there was NO CHANCE the factory would do anything to help...

I understand that is true as well. Sad, very sad. It will be a real fight to get any thing done from the factory.

If anybody has had any repairs done or paid for by the factory please post.
With over 40,000 boats made it would be interesting to find out.

daydreamerbob wrote:According to my dealer (Boating Atlanta- who i have a great deal of respect for) my problem was most likely due to a dirty spray tip? which resulted in some issue or another - he believes that my blisters are due to styrene gas he sanded them all down and put on two gallons of epoxy. I don't need anything more as I am in fresh Water. Just put the boat back in today - so will let you know how it works out.

Thanks for the update Bob.

"dirty spray tip"
Nice that the factory puts in a clause in the warranty to exclude such a problem. Would we accept a car that rusted after 5 months outdoors?

I guess I'm screwed because my dealer is 900 miles away and it really doesn't make sense to haul it back to repair it.

So how does the epoxy repair look? Does the gelcoat look different?

Also, I also wonder how many others have this problem and think it's "normal" or is it a problem with some factory worker's spray tip in 2008.

Hey Russ -

The Gel Coat is fully covered with the epoxy - the epoxy is bright white so from a color perspective it looks great. The texture though is much much different. The epoxy was put on with a roller so the texture is what you would expect "Nappy". It appears to be very thick and very hard - i think it worked. If I had a boat lift i would have done it myself - it could not take that long to do it.

Bob, I didn't read all the posts but went back to your original post stateing you had the boat only 3 mo. in the water with thousands of blisters. From this I can say the layup to the gelcoat was not properly done and cause water penetration tru the gelcoat (gelcoat absorbes water) and filling in areas the laminite did not adhear to.
Gelcoating needs to be 20 mills thick and even that can absorbe water. any non laminate will quickly absorbe the water especially if the gellcoat is less than 20 mills thick.
Bottom line is I would consider your hull not properly laid up to standards and would reject it under warrenty.
trying to sand all the bubbles down and repair with epozy fillers and 3 coats of Interlux 2000 is not your problem.Epoxy undercoating should be airless spraid or rolled with fine nap roller for epoxy and another person follow behind with brush very quickly.
Dave

daydreamerbob wrote:Hey Russ -

The Gel Coat is fully covered with the epoxy - the epoxy is bright white so from a color perspective it looks great. The texture though is much much different. The epoxy was put on with a roller so the texture is what you would expect "Nappy". It appears to be very thick and very hard - i think it worked. If I had a boat lift i would have done it myself - it could not take that long to do it.

DaveB wrote:Bob, I didn't read all the posts but went back to your original post stateing you had the boat only 3 mo. in the water with thousands of blisters. From this I can say the layup to the gelcoat was not properly done and cause water penetration tru the gelcoat (gelcoat absorbes water) and filling in areas the laminite did not adhear to.
Gelcoating needs to be 20 mills thick and even that can absorbe water. any non laminate will quickly absorbe the water especially if the gellcoat is less than 20 mills thick.
Bottom line is I would consider your hull not properly laid up to standards and would reject it under warrenty.
trying to sand all the bubbles down and repair with epozy fillers and 3 coats of Interlux 2000 is not your problem.Epoxy undercoating should be airless spraid or rolled with fine nap roller for epoxy and another person follow behind with brush very quickly.

That's what I was thinking. The blisters don't bother me. I can't see them when the boat is in the water, but I know they slow me down. So an epoxy cover migh "seal" the gelcoat, but if it's not done smoothly, I'll have a bumpy epoxy coat instead of bumpy blisters. I might pop one and see what's inside.

This was my first season with the boat on a mooring (vs. the trailer). I pulled the boat this weekend and cleaned off the lake gunk with a presssure washer. The entire bottom looks and feels like a big football too.

Four months in a cool Wisconsin fresh water lake. This was a bit of a surprise. I'll let it dry over the winter, see what happens and attack the problem in the spring.

Fresh water is actually worse for blisters than salt water.

So are these caused by the boat being in the water for too long?

If I put my boat in and out of the water for just a day's sailing am I still at risk for these? Like I have a 1996 X could I still get blisters?

Is there any rhyme or reason for why and when these boats develop blisters?

I originally thought it was poorly laid-up Macs that sat in salt water for long periods of times......

It is very dissappointing IF the factory won't stand by something like this, it is obviously faulty workmanship and if not repaired or replaced the warranty is worth less than the paper it's written on.
If this is the case and someone really wants a Mac you are better off buying secondhand after faults have had time to surface.
Our boat has had in total almost a year in water and shows no signs of blisters despite a few scrapes that punctured the gelcoat above and below the waterline so for one that is almost new to show these problems there is a fundamental flaw in workmanship.

Just a question for Mac Owners: 26X, and 26M Builds.
What material is being used for "GelCoat" , and "Internal Layup" foundation ? , and inside of Ballast Tank? Resin that is Resins
Polyester resin ? Most Common, and least expensive , in bulk
Epoxy resins ? Possible, but More expensive.. also more inpervious to blistering.
Vinyl Ester ? I don't this this is being used, as Cost..is very High, and 3 Month uncured shelf life is an issue.

My experience, with a imported 2004 Odin/ 820 Motor Sailer... Like Big Mac...RAW Bottom, No Epoxy Barrier, No Paint or Ablative Coating. Just spent 4 Months in Greenwood Lake, Northern Nerw Jersey...Summer 2008

The Boat Bottom, was Black with scum, and No Growth of Plants..or Critters. Just Dirty, Bad Ugly after 4 Months.
Note: Fresh Water Lake, Very Warm in season....With the Ballast Tank Full, for entire season at the Dock.

The Results were, No Blisters, No Leaks. when taken out of the water after 4 Month.
The Boat was professionaly Lifted by Crane, and Acid Washed, just looking like new.
Regards:
Jack

So in Summary: I don't know for sure, if the ODIN 820 is Epoxy Resin, in all the construction... But I Just Think I got very Very lucky , Will Try it again next season, as too much to lose.. Will for sure next season go for full botom epoxy barrier coat, and then some Hard Finish "trailer sailer" Paint.