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For some reason mine seems to like it better on starbord tack also. I don't really know why. I wouldn't think it would have anything to do with the lateral imbalance because I move people around when sailing to keep the boat at a comfortable angle.

This could be partially due to weight distribution (side to side). However, I found the main reason an X boat acts differently on a port tack than a starboard tack is that the backstay is mounted on one corner of the stern. Under moderate wind, if you look at the top of the mast on one tack, it is held fairly straight by the backstay on one tack. On the opposite tack, you can see the top of the mast bend off to the lee side and the backstay loosens up.
So, every time you tack, you have to re-adjust the mainsheet.

Now, if you split the backstay it will now pull straight back and there will be a lot less re-adjustment of the mainsheet form one tack to the other.
To do this, you must install a chainplate in the same location on the opposite side of the stern. Then you can make a new stay about ten to twelve feet long. Attach each end to the two chainplates Use a shroud adjuster, turnbuckle, or small purchase (similar to a boom vang) on one side where it attaches to the chain plate. Cut five or six feet off the original backstay and install a wire block on the new end. Your new short piece will run through this block and when the purchase, or turnbuckle, or whatever you used is tightened, your backstay will, in turn tighten and center itself.
The small effect the backstay has on the X rig, will now be equal on either tack.

Once again, I'm no expert by any means. I'm only sharing what seemed to work for me.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

X2 with a split backstay-the X mast is extremely light weight and easy to bend. Falling off to leeward is a common trait for a single stay mounted in factory mounted X fashion. I split mine with two (2) 4:1 Garhauer Vangs-each to a bail at the top of the mast to work the mast to suit wind conditions.

Bob

Does the split backstay interfere with the seat in the raised position?

tlgibson97 wrote:Does the split backstay interfere with the seat in the raised position?

Mine did not. Although, I did remove the seat completely at some point, as I never like it. For me, it was just in the way.
So, as it's been some years since I had the X boat, I can't say for sure.

The X boat cockpit is a whole different place with that seat out of the way. I sat on one side or the other anyway. Try it if you're more into sailing than driving.

BB,
Steve K.

beene wrote:"The moment the boat gets up some speed (about 5 knots), it blows over to 25 degrees, then rounds up, and I lose it all, even with the wheel all the way to lee. No matter how much I try to stay on a straight course I find myself following a "scalloped" path."

1. you need to be on the main sheet 100% of the time, sheet out when the gust starts, stay ahead of the heel, anticipate by feeling the wind force change, you must not allow the heel to get accessive if you want to maintain a heading without rounding up

2. you mentioned turning the helm all the way to lee, don't do that, beyond 10-15 deg of rudder to your heading in these conditions, you will just stall out the rudders and they become a brake more than anything else

G

Completely concur. Release the mainsheet as SOON as the boat passes 20 degrees. The boat will right and you'll be fine. In fresh gusty winds I sometimes don't even cleat the mainsheet off, I just hold it under tension by hand so I can feel what the wind is doing in real time. UNFORTUNATELY, this heeling also turns the boat slightly, which if you don't immediately correct for it, you'll be off course and lose your wind.

Mainsheet in one hand, helm in the other, eye on your course. It's the only way that works.

Any change in anything on a Mac affects course: Change in heel angle, person moving about the boat, change in wind direction. You have to counter that on the helm immediately to keep wind at the angle you expect or you'll lose wind.

And get an autopilot--it helps in course keeping immeasurably.

I on the other hand, never hold the main sheet. That's too much work. I have never had an issue with rounding up unless I have wayyyyy the wrong sail up. With a reefed main and a standard jib, the boat will gallop through the water at better then five knots at around 20 degrees of heel. I do adjust the sheets as needed but don't actually hold it.
Ease the main a bit in those conditions and reduce heel and helm. The helm on my boat is light no matter what the conditions.
I also disconnect the engine from the steering linkage.
Ix

Another thing I tend to do that's probably different than most people is drag the prop as a "speed reduction" measure in higher winds, typically above 12 knots. The prop acts as both a 3rd rudder and a drogue, and the drag on it helps to improve course keeping quite a bit. I do this before I reef the mainsail, but after furling the headsail.

I also furl the headsail all the time while sailing as winds change. Basically my technique is to use the mainsheet to keep heel constant, and then furl the headsail immediately as winds increase, keeping the mainsheet in hand to deal with gusting (actually it's drapped over the throttle). Keeping the headsail furl correct for the overall winds helps more than anything else to keep a steady course, heel, and speed in my experience.

mastreb wrote:Keeping the headsail furl correct for the overall winds helps more than anything else to keep a steady course, heel, and speed in my experience.

This is what I am finding too. I furl and unfurl the jenny to suit the current wind conditions.