MacGregorSailors.com

RussMT wrote:

kmclemore wrote:No worries, Dave. Just a mix-up - it does seem an odd thing to have two so similarly named products offered by one retailer!

Or three similar products from one retailer.

Actually, FOUR, Russ. Northern Tool also sells the Honda!

kmclemore wrote:

RussMT wrote:

kmclemore wrote:No worries, Dave. Just a mix-up - it does seem an odd thing to have two so similarly named products offered by one retailer!

Or three similar products from one retailer.

Actually, FOUR, Russ. Northern Tool also sells the Honda!

I have to believe much of this comes from patent laws that are ignored in China. From what I can see, all of these seem extremely similar to the Honda. Same location of pull starter, shape, fuel fill, etc.
My little NObrand knock off works fine when I have used it. Was cheap. However, I wouldn't know where to obtain parts for it if it broke. So it's somewhat disposable at this point.

My neighbor has a Yamaha model similar also.

I'd love to see a review/comparison of the "major" knock offs. My experience with the Honda is it is extremely quiet. Dave's experience is his is extremely quiet. My cheapo is quiet, but nowhere near as quiet as the Honda. Can we trust overseas mfg decibel rating

--Russ

One thing I've always wondered, given I'm not an electrician...

When I use the generator at home I can easily attach a ground wire to the ground terminal and then to a metal stake in the ground. However, what does one do while on the water to ground it? Run a ground wire into the lake?

Russ,
Already said the Powerhorse (Powerhouse) had less noise than the 1000 Honda, the Honda 2000 has 4dba higher than that.
Get off your tractor and find the Powerhorse and crank your tractor for half the price.
You can lead a Horse to water...can't make um drink.
Dave

If you are worried about ground in a boat, neg. side battery and motor ground. That's if you run your outboard to battery .
If you don't, no grounding needed.
Portable generators need no ground on boats.
Ac 110 at home should have a ground rod to expend elect. current for grounding.
Even with a grounding rod you should have a surge protector on you Elect. panel to prevent high voltage to destroy your appliances and putters.
If your home has a surge protector you must enter your generator before it, usually a outside box breaker 100-200 amps.
Depends on the wattage of generator, if using a 5000-10000 watt gen. a 50amp breaker is fine.
Homes with surge protection keeps all your electrical appliances protected, why in hooking up generators you go before this protection to filter any surge.
Most people like i have for more than 5 days without elect during Charley or Andrew used small generators 1200-5000 watts to power refig. fan and light and tv with 1800 watt gen. these items were pluged into extension cord direct to gen. require no surge protection.
You can and advise to just get a surge cable to plug in for these appliances and computer, cost is around $18.
I have recent bought a 14x7 ft cargo trailer that I converted into a camper that is 6ft-6 inches high and haul two full size motorcycles and two 12ft kaycks. has refig. top loading, two burner stove, double sink, ice maker.
Also all is run on DC and AC complete separated. 5 Gal. Porta Potty with on demand hot water for showers outside camper with full enclosed curtain.
When we get a campsite we take out the motorcycles and kayacs (they have wheels) and have the camper to enjoy. We do have
two gravity chairs that can sleep 2 but also have the blow up low double bed.
We also added ice maker and the 5000 btu aircondition works great in 90 degree heat in sw florida.
Think I can have my cake and eat it to except no Sailboat to tow.
The Powerhorse 2000 powers all and a 900watt microwave, twin 29 group batteries run the DC with 10 amp auto charge.
The 5000 btu runs at 4amps max. edgestar 63 quart at 1.5 amps , ice maker edgestar 1.2 amps, I haven't run the 900 watt microwave yet with the 2000 and may have to turn off AC for 2-3 min. to run it.
My built in ac is rated a 30 amps and powers everything when hooked up to campsite with 20amps or greater.
Have a 13 gal. gray water tank and a 12 gal. portable tank. Fresh water to sink in elect. pump with a hand pump next to it.
Filter system runs on the selfpriming faucet.
Most of this is same as I used on the MacX except the elect. sink pump, gray water tank and Icemaker.

Dave

kmclemore wrote:One thing I've always wondered, given I'm not an electrician...

When I use the generator at home I can easily attach a ground wire to the ground terminal and then to a metal stake in the ground. However, what does one do while on the water to ground it? Run a ground wire into the lake?

Just to expand slightly on what Dave said, a portable generator and the wiring on your boat is considered a Separately Derived System (SDS) in NEC-speak, because it has no connection to the utility, at least not while it's unplugged from shore power. The generator has no reference to ground, as in Mother Earth, like the utility power does, so there's no reason to establish one. If your onboard electric system is bonded to the DC negative, and if the neutral bus (grounded conductor in NEC-speak) is NOT bonded to the ground (equipment grounding conductor, also NEC-speak), then you're compliant for shore power connection, and for generator connection, assuming the appropriate transfer switch or cord-and-plug method of connection is employed. That's not including any of a zillion other little details, of course - just speaking in generalities here.

And for the record, the grounding electrode system (ground rods, ufer grounds, cold water pipe, etc.) is there to protect against lightning strikes, inadvertent contact with higher voltage conductors, and to stabilize the voltage to ground so that everything with exposed metal in proximity is at the same voltage (zero relative to each other). That's paraphrased, from memory. There is also specific wording in the NEC regarding the inability of the earth to conduct enough current to act as sole protection against ground-faults, which is the function of the equipment ground. The resistance of Mother Earth is way too high under the best conditions to trip even a 15A breaker at 120V, but that's not what 'grounding' to earth is for anyway, at least not at the low voltages we use (120, 208, 240, 277, 480, and 600V, most commonly).

So your boat, floating around on its own, powered by a generator, is its own little utility and premises wiring system, with no reference to the earth. That's no true when connected to shore power, but it is when not connected.