Ugly windows

[Jeremy K]

Hey folks, got another question about my elderly M25. The PO unfortunately did something...weird with the cabin windows.

I don't know how much you can see from the pictures. There's no trim around the windows; I've seen other M25's that had trim; did all have trim? He caulked the windows with a fairly heavy and rather irregular hand. Not completely sure where to go from here; can one get trim to put around the windows? Are replacement windows/trim available?

[kmclemore]

I don't believe the MacGregor 25 ever came with trim on the windows from the factory.

I think what has happened here is that the owner had some sort of leaking around the windows and to fix it, instead of removing and re-seating the windows he just smeared sealant all around them.

The proper fix would be to strip off all that goop, remove the windows VERY carefully (they crack *super* easily) and re-seat them with proper sealant. If you want replacement windows I think your only possible source would be be Blue Water Yachts, and I'm not even sure they'd have them. Failing that, you could make your own if you've got talent - if not, go to a glass shop and see if they can make some out of smoked Lexan.

Here's the original brochure for your boat, showing no trim around the windows:



And a photo of an older 25 with properly seated windows:

[Jeremy K]

Thanks so much for the info. I've sent an email to BWY asking if they have M25 windows.

What would be the right sealant to use if I did take the windows off and reseat them?

Man, looking at the pics you posted makes me almost sick when I think of my poor old M25 and how she looks. Besides the window 'caulking' mess, the PO just slathered paint on her willy-nilly. A clean and neat M25 looks so sweet.

[kmclemore]

You can seat them with GE's Silproof SCS 2000 or Dow 795 structural adhesive (the latter is what MacGregor recommends, and Boeing uses it to hold in the windows in their jets). Use only enough to seat the window and have a SLIGHT bit squeeze out, which can then be wiped off and smoothed with a wetted finger. Be *very* careful to screw the window on a little at a time, tightening the screws in a circular pattern in small increments to prevent over-stressing any particular screw hole. Also, the screws do not have to be terribly tight - the sealant actually holds the windows on, not the screws - they're mostly there to keep it in place while it's curing. Make sure you dab a small bit of sealant under each screw head before installing them so they don't leak.

Below is a link to a thread where I explained in excruciating detail how to replace a window.... hopefully it's helpful. I used 3M 5200 when I did my window replacement, but that's not the recommended sealant. That being said, it has held up nicely on my boat.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... 41&start=0

[Mac26Mpaul]

You may find it considerably cheaper to get some cut, rather than buy em ready made. Thats what I did with my last boat. Carefully remove the old ones (actually, I broke one of mine in half LOL) and take them into a perspex place and they will cut you an identical set screw holes and all. I just used a basic clear silicon from the hardware store and it came out well - had no problems with them.

[chipveres]

Jeremy:

We're dying to know: The Admiral and I can't figure out whether to call that *wonderful* window color "pink" or "violet".


Chip

[Steve K]

Jeremy:

Here ya go

http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/prod ... cts_id=111

Best to call them........ some Macs (even in the same model run) have, just slightly different windows. So you need to make sure they will fit. They may ask you to send your old ones to be used as patterns.

Great smoke color and don't fade to pink like the originals.

Follow instructions carefully to install. The main thing is, all traces of the old adhesive must be cleaned off, prior to installing the new windows. You'll have to scrape off the old stuff, to a point, then clean with a solvent, made to remove old silicon adhesive (you can get this @ stores like Home Depot).

Also.... my first set of these came without the screws. I made the mistake of mounting them with #10 screws, because they fit the holes nicely. Well, the screws needed are smaller (#6, I think). The windows will crack, over time with the larger screws, due to heat changes and the plastic expands at a different rate than the fiberglass they are mounted on.

Now, if you go to a local shop to get windows cut, here is what MacGregor uses these days;
PLEXIGLASS - 1/4" BRONZE 2370 4'X 8'

Got this info from their web site in the supplier's area.

Hope this has been helpful

Best Breezes,
Steve K.
Mac 26D "Three Sheets"

[kmclemore]

You may find it considerably cheaper to get some cut, rather than buy em ready made.

I would agree, but please note that these windows are not just 'cut' but are also rounded over and polished on the edges, so you'd need to find a place that can do that for you (see previous posting). If you're doing it yourself you could use a router to round it over, then sand by hand using progressively finer paper and then polish.

[Steve K]

Yes
Edge finish on the RudderCraft windows is pretty nice.

I dare say this is actually the best deal, short of buying sheet stock and cutting out the windows yourself. I was planning on doing this (as I'm a diehard D-I-Yer) and though it's been years ago, buying the pre made windows was the cost effective way to go (versus spending a lot of time cutting them myself). And..... unless you have some experience cutting plastic sheet stock, I wouldn't make this my first project with such. If you do, buy some extra, or scrap and practice cutting and drilling it first.

I think that by the time you pay labor at a plastic shop to cut these out for you, the RudderCraft price will be hard to beat
JMHO

Best Breezes,
Steve K.

[Jeremy K]

You guys are so helpful, I really appreciate it! I daresay the ugly windows are bothering my XO even more than the sloppy paint job (tho' that's probably a close second), so I intend to deal with them soon. Now I have multiple options to go with.

And I call the color...pink...or rose...I think...o>0

[Jeremy K]

And kmclemore, your step-by-step installation 'manual', complete with cautions, is a gem!

[Steve K]

kmclemore,

Noticed in your older post, ( re: replacing windows) you used 5200. Would you say that the 795 Dow is better solution now

I've got the D windows on my winter list, due to the cracking, I mentioned earlier.

Thanks,

SK

[kmclemore]

Noticed in your older post, ( re: replacing windows) you used 5200. Would you say that the 795 Dow is better solution now

Yes, "Dow Corning 795 Silicone Building Sealant" is the preferred stuff. It is what MacGregor Boats, Inc. recommend. It comes in several colors - black, white, tan, gray, green, etc. I'd suggest using black.

3M 5200 will also work - my windows have remained leak-free and solidly mounted - but it's not recommended because it is nearly impossible to remove if need be.

[vizwhiz]

tightening the screws in a circular pattern

Isn't that how you always tighten screws??




I'm surprised Catigale didn't beat me to this one!

[kmclemore]

tightening the screws in a circular pattern

Isn't that how you always tighten screws??

Not sure what you mean by that, but yes, when putting in windows I do. If you try the usual diagonal (cross) manner that is used with machinery you'll have a greater risk of cracking the fragile window.