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Since day one, I've been dealing with self-loosening screws in the pedestal plexi panels. Every time I remove the panel to service something, another screw strips out it's thread in the fiberglass. Have gone to larger dia screw & elec tape over screw heads, and they still work out from vibration on road/ water.

I'm thinking of a mod to thru bolt/nut the plexi panel, but with a hinged door cutout within the panel. Will need to lip the opening to seal for weather. Easy access to inside of pedestal would be nice place to store little cockpit things.

Any considerations on this idea?

I wonder if you could glue/glass some nuts to the inside of the pedestal and replace screws with bolts. Maybe use nylon lock nuts to keep them from becomimg loose from vibration.

--Russ

What about using a Nutsert (aka "RivNut), Jack Nut or Rawl Nut (aka Well Nut)?

Nutserts are basically aluminium rivets that have a threaded centre, Jack Nuts are a threaded metal sleeve that crimps down upon first installation and Rawl Nuts are a rubber sleeve with a brass threaded insert that when tightened grips the surrounding hole.

You won't be able to use Nyloc nuts since you won't be able to hold them once you install the panel. And Clip Nuts (aka Cage Nuts) won't be a good choice because the spring-clip is usually made of steel and will probably rust.



Clip Nuts:

RussMT wrote:I wonder if you could glue/glass some nuts to the inside of the pedestal and replace screws with bolts. Maybe use nylon lock nuts to keep them from becomimg loose from vibration.

That's precisely what I'm planning, as I have the same problem. I used through-bolt (well, machine screws) on the throttle side, as there that big lump of engine control that I'm pushing and pulling against, but the other (port) side could use a better method. Like machine screws with nuts glassed or epoxied to the inside.

tkanzler wrote:

RussMT wrote:I wonder if you could glue/glass some nuts to the inside of the pedestal and replace screws with bolts. Maybe use nylon lock nuts to keep them from becomimg loose from vibration.

That's precisely what I'm planning, as I have the same problem. I used through-bolt (well, machine screws) on the throttle side, as there that big lump of engine control that I'm pushing and pulling against, but the other (port) side could use a better method. Like machine screws with nuts glassed or epoxied to the inside.

Hmm. I'm not a fan of glassing in a nut. First, the glass won't really grip the nut very well and if you get some corrosion on that join you're just going to end up spinning the nut in the glass... and then it will be a heck of a time getting it out. If you absolutely must glass in a nut, then weld it to a strip of stainless and then glass that in - that way the strip will provide leverage to prevent the nut spinning.

But if you want to glass something in, how about just glassing in a piece of hardwood and use wood screws to secure the panel? Cheap, easy and foolproof.

If it were me, I'd go for the RivNuts or Rawl Nuts. Rawl Nuts are particularly good as they reduce vibration and subsequent cracking.

kmclemore wrote:But if you want to glass something in, how about just glassing in a piece of hardwood and use wood screws to secure the panel? Cheap, easy and foolproof.

Or just drill and countersink two holes on each side, through the white helm station only, (or even just one) and use small SS flat-head woodscrews to hold a strip of wood to the inside, then use SS flat- or oval-head wood screws through the original holes in the existing panels and into the wood behind it.

Problem with rivnuts and such is in getting them in SS, and I don't like ordering things if I don't have to. I'm fighting with iboats right now because I ordered a pole light (all-round white), and got a rebuilt carburetor, and they won't send out the pole light until they 'get to the bottom of this'.

Rivnuts will be unsatisfactory, in the fiber matrix they will likely eventually break loose and then spin in place, making them (and the attached screw) difficult to remove without damaging the surrounds.

I use aircraft nutplates for that kind of install. I used them for the 2' x 3' big pocket fascia under the sink. They have a 'nylock' style nut installed, or a mild interference fit, and you can get them with floating nuts. Installation involves three holes each (two small ones for the nutplate and one larger one for the fastener), I use soft aircraft rivets but you can use countersink pop rivets as well. They are cheap and fairly easy to install.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/se ... ES&x=0&y=0

windypatrick wrote:I use aircraft nutplates for that kind of install...

What material are these made from?

All good ideas. Right now I'm thinking of thru bolt with locknuts for the plexi panel then a round screw out access plate instead of fabbing a door.

K9Kampers wrote:All good ideas. Right now I'm thinking of thru bolt with locknuts for the plexi panel then a round screw out access plate instead of fabbing a door.

That would work, but it seems more complicated. You are creating an access panel to secure the Lexan access panel.
The best and simplest idea I've seen above is to glue a block of wood behind and screw into it. Like Kevin said, "Cheap, easy and foolproof."

I had the same problem. The screws were always falling out. I went with stainless nut clips. I haven't had a problem since.

I used rivitnuts in the liner to mount my window frames I made last yr
http://s844.photobucket.com/user/TheHig ... 1.mp4.html

http://s844.photobucket.com/user/TheHig ... 3.mp4.html

easy & fast to install , clean fit too

J

A bit of soft wood and some goop...the screw that holds the side panel also holds the wood in place until the goop sets...probably predrill wood just in case of splittting

I had the same problem, so I epoxied a strip of hardwood to the backside a couple years ago. So far so good. I think the wellnuts would work fine as well. I don't share windypatricks concern; if the fiber breaks down, just pull on the panel while loosening, and either the nut will grip or pull out. Had I thought of it I probably would have gone with the wellnuts vs a hardwood backing. I've used them on plastic kayaks and have been pleased. They are rubber with brass screw and nut so corrosion is a non-issue.

I agree, add a 1/2 inch thick X 1 inch width strip of oak on backside with kmclemore Teenuts and sucure with 3m5200 with vises until dry . You won't need vises if you screw in the 3 bolts each side when you apply the 5200.
You now have a bolt removable panel that can be removed any time you want without stripping treads on a screw.
The oak also gives strength to that area of thin glass. Better yet if you can find teak.
Dave

csm wrote:I had the same problem, so I epoxied a strip of hardwood to the backside a couple years ago. So far so good. I think the wellnuts would work fine as well. I don't share windypatricks concern; if the fiber breaks down, just pull on the panel while loosening, and either the nut will grip or pull out. Had I thought of it I probably would have gone with the wellnuts vs a hardwood backing. I've used them on plastic kayaks and have been pleased. They are rubber with brass screw and nut so corrosion is a non-issue.