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Hello all,

I have an 88 Mac 26D that didn't come with a manual and the one in the Manuals section does not have some information I'm looking for.

Here are my questions:

1) My brother has a tension gauge, what should the tension be on my:
a) Forestay
b) Backstay
c) bottom shrouds
d) middle shrouds
e) upper shrouds

2) I have a hank-on jib. I'm not sure if I'm rigging my line correctly from the clew. I run them outside of my shrouds, under my safety lines at the right spot, through a ring on a track, and then through a cleat. I do not have them on my winches.

3) The only winch I use is for my daggerboard. Should that winch be used for my jib instead?

I've looked for answers, but my Google-fu seems weak in getting these answers.

I bought the boat from some people who had never rigged it in the short time they had it, so all tribal knowledge is lost.

Thank you much,

Curwen

108 views and not 1 comment?

Too much of a newbie question that has you all worried?

Well, I don't have a 26 classic, but I can tell you that you don't tension the forestay. You tension the shrouds, and since the forestay resists the fore/aft component of those shrouds, you get what you get. If you then tighten or loosen the forestay, you change the shroud tension.

Backstay is usually just snugged. If the shrouds are backswept at all, then it's not even needed for lighter sailing, though a spinnaker pulling the boat forward will put considerable load on the shrouds, which have to resist that forward force, if the backstay isn't there. The boats don't have a backstay, and neither do many/most Hunters (B&R rig), but the shrouds attach further back than 'normal', at least on the Hunters. And the backstay can be used to induce additional bend in the mast for sail tuning, but that's not part of the at-rest tuning.

I couldn't say what the tension is, though. The manual has some rig tuning advice which might help.

Well, it's something.

Hi Curwen, I'm guessing that the 108 viewers either don't own a 26d or 26s or just don't know the answers to your questions.

I've never used a tension gauge so I can't help with question #1.

I've found that my jib does best when I run it between the shrouds. My genoa does best outside the shrouds. Both lines run through the fairlead on the track then clockwise around the winch and to the cleat directly behind it. In light winds you probably won't need the winches but as the winds pick up you'll be glad they are there. I always use my winch for the sheets but only install the handle when the winds pick up. Having the lines wrapped around the winch not only allows leverage but helps control the sheets better and puts the sheets in line with the cam cleat..

Rather than using the winch on the daggerboard I pull the daggerboard line to the side then take up the slack through the cam cleat. This leaves the winch open for the jib sheets.

Curwen wrote:Hello all,
I have an 88 Mac 26D that didn't come with a manual and the one in the Manuals section does not have some information I'm looking for.
Here are my questions:
1) My brother has a tension gauge, what should the tension be on my:
a) Forestay
b) Backstay
c) bottom shrouds
d) middle shrouds
e) upper shrouds
2) I have a hank-on jib. I'm not sure if I'm rigging my line correctly from the clew. I run them outside of my shrouds, under my safety lines at the right spot, through a ring on a track, and then through a cleat. I do not have them on my winches.
3) The only winch I use is for my daggerboard. Should that winch be used for my jib instead?
Curwen

Since no one else offered this is what I do, may be wrong but has served me well thus far.
1) I take the play out of the shrouds and stays but do not use a gage. I don't remember the manual calling for a tension either, but there was discussion of how to set the spreader bars.
2) I have a roller furler with a 150 genoa but it sounds as if your rigging is correct. Ask yourself can you sheet out all the way to run down wind?
3) I use the same winch for the dagger and head sail; if needed. Most of the time I can raise the dagger without the winch. You may need to do some cleaning of the dagger and trunk if you find you are fighting with it. Once the dagger is raised or lowered you should be able to unwrap it without it moving and cleat it with the cam cleat.
A quick search of the internet and you will be able to download the manual for the S which is identical in rigging with the exception of the dagger. It will do a better job then I.
Hope this helps or sparks someone with more knowledge to answer.

Curwen wrote:108 views and not 1 comment?

Too much of a newbie question that has you all worried?

Not worried but since these boats are not raced a lot a good tuning guide is not available. Plus different sails need different tuning and you need to tune the rig differently for different wind speeds ect, ect. I have yet to spend time tracking shroud tension, wind speed, sail choice = performance gain/loss. Plus since I am not racing one design it is difficult to realize if your changes made any difference.

To increase pointing ability rake mast aft, this will also increase weather helm so it is a balance of what you want.

Upper leeward shroud should not slacken up below 10kts

Adjust lower shrouds tighter to prevent lower mast bend. As you tighten them you also reduce windward cupping and increase upper mast spill off. I run my lowers to have about a 6 inch swing in the middle.

Back stay is tightened in higer winds to flatten the main sail and reduce power it will also tighten the fore stay to help.

Take one of your halyards and measure to the same point left and right on the boat to make sure you mast is straight up.

It has taken me over 8 years to get to this, I am changing the mast rake this year to see how it affects the boat.

Thank you guys. I'm new to this and just want to make sure I get it set right. Right now, I take the advice reef early and head home when trouble is on the way. I haven't been out of my skill set yet, so the boat is way better than I am. I am getting a little better each week and might get to a place where these types of questions might be the difference between a snapped mast and a fun trip.

I've seen people say read the manual, but that type of info wasn't in the manual.

Thanks again, if you are in the Salt Lake City area, pizza is on me.

Curwen

Take a look at this thread.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... oose+gauge

I targeted the shrouds on my to 10% of breaking strength (300 to 325 lbs). You may have different cable thickness than I had, so your numbers might be different. Always start with the mast as vertical as possible with minimal bending. That is your starting point. Raise the mast, pin the forestay, release tension on the mast raising system. measure. partially lower the mast and adjust. repeat as necessary. When you make an adjustment, you must adjust both sides of the shroud pair equally, else the mast will no longer be straight. I think the uppers get done first (check the post). Adding tension to the uppers will remove tension on the lowers (I think I got that right), so check all four shrouds as you get close to the final adjustment. Try to get all four shrouds to within 15% or so of your target tension. like Tom said, the forestay tension will be whatever it needs to be to accommodate the shrouds, and the backstay is pretty much just made snug (its kind of un necessary). You will find that once you get everything adjusted there is little need for any re-adjustment unless something changes.