New Bunks - Pls Opine

[Frank C]

Based upon several reports of trailer bunks being "bumped off" during boat retrieval, I've decided that my sixth-year trailer renewal should include new bunks. (Notwithstanding today's close trailer exam that shows my original bunks seem quite secure.) Since the trailer is empty, why not spend that last 40 bucks?! I measured today, finding that my 26X trailer needs about 14' of pressure-treated lumber, as follows: 4 short bunks @ ~1 foot each, plus 4 longer bunks at ~2.5' each.

• - I'll get lumber from HD, maybe 2x4, maybe 2x6 for a bit more cost ... opinions?
  - I'll get the bunk carpet from WM, since I'm believing their propoganda ...... (that their special carpet won't hold water);
  - I'll get the necessary galv bolts & nuts, unless consensus opines for SS ??
  - What about staples?? HD has staples in both Monel and Stainless Steel,
  both by Arrow ... why not SS??

[Night Sailor]

Why not get everything at HD? My store has perfectly suitable carpet for boat bunks. I replaced mine last year with a nice, plastic backed and fused poly fiber carpet. Tell the carpet man what you will be using it for. I bought a bunch for an outdoor exposed utility trailer about ten years ago and the current owner says it is still fine.

[Tahoe Jack]

Anyone tried Trex (this is the plastic decking material)? Cuts neatly with common tools, unlikely to split. I may replace one lame bunk for a testo.
A competive brand has partially hollow core...I'd go for the solid. Jack

[Frank C]

HD is carrying plastic lumber only in 1x6 right now, and the 16-footer sells for $30. Since I'd need two of them (double-stacked) that means $60 for my trailer.

A pressure treated 2x6, 8' long is $9. Two of them provides the same 16 feet at less than 20 bucks. I decided that plastic simply cannot last "longer enough" to justify triple the cost of PT lumber.

[Jeff S]

Pressure treated wood will last quite awhile. I went with SS screws. When you drill the holes in the wood make sure that you drill a countersink so that the screw head is below the surface of the wood. If not the bunk carpet will rub between the screw and the boat and wear out, after which the screw head will be free to scratch up the bottom of your hull. I also used nylon lock nuts so I didn't have to keep checking them for security.

2x6 boards seem like a good idea as that would spread the weight out more on the wood and on the hull. Certainly couldn't hurt, I think I would use those in retrospect.

I don't remember which type of staples I used. I just loaded up the staple gun and fired away. The hardest part of the project was cutting the carpet just right to fit on the bunk. I put the carpet on first, but then had to punch a small hole in the carpet to put the screwdriver in to tighten the screws when attaching them to the trailer. You could attach the bunks first then put the carpets on the bunks also. My way just made putting the carpet on a bit easier, but I am sure water can get under the carpet more easily. I haven't seen any short term (1.5 yr) problems with how I did it.

[Al]

I used the plastic wood on my deck at the house. It is great, but is not structural and would probably would not take the load of a boat.

Al

[Frank C]

2x6 boards seem like a good idea as that would spread the weight out more on the wood and on the hull. Certainly couldn't hurt, I think I would use those in retrospect.

Jeff,
I looked over the possibility of using a 2x6 but decided against it. As you've seen, each bunk board is supported only by a 2-inch edge of flat metal. Seemed to me that the 5.5" wide board would have a greater tendency to split lengthwise, especially if it had less than a perfect grain structure. I upsized the bolts from the factory's wimpy quarter-inch screws to 5/16' galvanized carriage bolts, suggested here recently ... guess your choice of stainless would have been even better, but the factory's choice was really inadequate!

My trailer is particularly corroded where the wet wood rests on the metal edge. I'm spending extra time to clean up the metal and apply Rustoleum ... I might also get some plastic flashing from HD. They suggest this flashing to prevent direct contact between decking and the supporting joists - seems a good idea for the trailer too.

[Greg]

I used 2x4 PT lumber, 5/16 SS carriage bolts, re-installed the old carpet using copper tacks then lastly wrapped the new bunk carpet over the old and fastened with Evercoat Deck Mate deck screws. 2 layers of carpet provides additional padding.

Greg

[Rich Walton]

Frank,

I used all stainlees bolts and standard presure treated 2X4s and bunk carpet. I am allmost finished with the tamdem axel bolt on system from Champion.

I was also suprized at the amount of rust under the bunks. I ground most of it down and coated it with a Rust converter then a Rust encapsulator paint.

But while you are redoing your trailer, why not add the second axel? I will give you my old one(still complete with brakes and springs) come by and pick it up, and it is yours.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

I am allmost finished with the tamdem axel bolt on system from Champion.

I was just perusing the Champion Catalogue and came across the Tandem axel bolt-on package.
A good/affordable deal for the do-it yourselfer. An all bolt-on application.
$595 + shipping (does not include rims/tires).




Champion Trailer Tandem Axel Conversion

Please update us with the results/findings of your install. Specifically, how to best/easy remove the welded fasten points on the stock MAC trailer without using a weld torch.

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI & '06 2.5-Suzuki

[Frank C]

Thx Rich - I'll strap that trailer underneath & be right there! ... Oahu, right?
I actually decided against a second axle, upsizing instead to 15-inchers. I'm very pleased with the results with Kodiak vented disks and UFP actuator - all Silver-cad plated, the 15" alloy trailer wheels by GreenBall Mfg - and finally, the Goodyear Marathons. I now have a 3,500 lb axle with 4,500# tire capacity!

I took a few pictures over the past month or so and I'll get them posted later. But Bobby, I didn't try to grind-off the old coupler. I cheated - had a local welding shop cut the old one off and weld back the new one - pictures of that too.

A word to wise: one of my spring shackles IS frozen solid with rust! ... just one of the reasons I pondered changing to a torsion axle. Couldn't go there for the time req'd, but I do still have this "problem shackle" that I'm soaking regularly with penetrating oil. Check yours to see that both of your rear spring shackles are moving (swinging) as the rig bounces - else we're prone to breaking a spring or a frame weld.

[Rich Walton]

Yes Frank, I know you are a one axel guy! I was just trying to pawn off the axel to someone close so I could get rid of it. So if anybody wants it let me know!

Bobby, Yes it looks like the cheap way to go but i got to tell you I am $2400 into it now! I went for the whole thing 2 new axels (I wanted both to be the spindle lube) all new disc brakes (new coupler also) new bunk carpet, new wench and strap.

As far as installlation i ground all the old stuff off (Not bad it took 6 cutting and 4 grinding wheels and about 4 hours to remove all the hangers and coupler) as i was grinding off the hangers i broke off one of my bunks. so i started really looking at the rust all over the steel and found that if i didnt stop it now i would be in big trouble soon. So i ground down all the rust scale and treated all the scale with a rust reformer, the sanded the whole trailer and painted it all with a rust incapselator paint (30 hours). After that i started with the install of the axels, not hard to do mount the new bolt-on hangers, then the axels (6 hours) then the new hubs and disc brakes (4 hours) then brake lines and coupler (6 hours).

So that is where i am now, I need to finish the bunks, install the lights and wiring, install the fenders and tires, and the goal post.

I left all the galv parts unpainted (I think it looks cool) So as soon as i am done I will pull the boat and take it to the Suzuki dealer for motor repair then i will wax it clean it all nice and then I will finaly be ready to take it out! It has been almost a year now! I am so ready!

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

I've actually decided to add a larger leaf spring and leave everything else the same until I get new upgraded (possibly higher rated) tires.

Based on what I can determine, the current X leaf springs are rated 1750#. So they are probably the Double Eye Springs #0401 on the link below.

Champion Trailer Leaf Springs

I think I'll go with the 3300# rated #3018. I could go lower, but I don't see any reason why...
I'm only doing this so that my fenders won't touch, not to load up the boat.
That is, it currently weighs about 3200# while on the trailer and the springs sag too much.

any thoughts???

[Frank C]

... it currently weighs about 3200# while on the trailer and the springs sag too much. ... any thoughts???

That seems way too llght for boat PLUS trailer ... did you weigh it, or am I just confused???
(Mine weighed 3,700+ when new, with just the Suzi-60 plus 6 gallons of gas.)

That spring seems too much, Bobby ... way too stiff with 6 leaves. It will transfer too much road jounce to the trailer, the bunks and the boat. If you already have some trailer rust it might conceivably start fatiguing welds.

My springs never sagged and I've never seen other reports like that (and can't believe your boat is so much heavier than norm that it should overload the basic 3,500# axle?). So I'm wondering if your trailer got short-changed by one spring-size, resulting in that sag. You should verify that the current springs are indeed 4-leaf 1,750s - measure the leaf thickness - then upsize only one step. Or, tow it down to a Mayflower or Allied mover's yard and get it weighed - just one opinion.

[delevi]

Had my boat for less than 2 years (bought new,) and the bunks are quite rotten, soft and wobbly. I had a bolt tear through the wood, having to drill another hole in the trailer and bunk to re-secure it. The carpet is also torn in several places. Oh yeah, rust everywhere, particularly the wheels. Roger sure makes one fine trailer. I'll probably replaces my bunks at the end of the year. This is usefull info. Thanks.