MacGregorSailors.com

Hi All

Does anyone have any suggestions about relocating my boat from Bellevue to Richmond by trailer? Well I mean beyond the obvious of having the trailer inspected bearings repacked along with replacing the tires?

I wish the budget would allow for a double axle replacement trailer.

I plan on towing it with a 16 foot rental moving truck as I will also be moving some furniture. Current plans are for the middle of June going through Denver CO to drop off a busted Admiral.

Any suggestions on routes can’t miss stops or precautions would be much appreciated!

Well, I dragged mine from New Mexico to Philadelphia with only the stock single axle, and got home just fine. So, it can be done!

Before leaving:

• - Remove the brake drums and check the brakes for any wear or leaking brake fluid (gently peel back the rubber boots on the wheel cylinders to check for leaks). Clean off any brake dust using "Brakleen" (get it at your local auto parts store) - don't breathe that dust - it's leathal.
  
  - Clean all the wheel studs and inspect them. Take a new or good wheel nut and run it down each stud, all the way down - it should go all the way to the bottom of the threads pretty easily. If it binds as it gets past where it would normally be tightened, then that stud is very likely to have been over-tightened during its life and has been stretched (and hence the threads are now further apart and will bind with the nut). Replace any studs that are stripped or stretched, as well as any nuts that are not 'like new'. It's cheap insurance and the wheel studs & nuts are a well-known problem with Mac trailers.
  
  - Remove, clean, inspect and repack the bearings. Replace them - *and* the bearing races - if they show signs of blueing (from heat) or delamination of the bearing surfaces (pitting). Install a new seal in the back of the hub. On installation of the grease-packed hub, adjust the bearing nut to very snug while slowly turning the hub (*not* cranked down hard!), then back it off to 'just tight' and set the cotter-pin to lock the castellated nut in place - wiggle the hub to ensure there's no slop or play and repeat the process if there is.
  
  - Now's also a good time to install "Bearing Buddies" on both hubs - they are a valuable addition to ensure proper lubrication and to prevent water from getting into your hubs in the future. I also use a "Bearing Buddy Bra" on each as well.
  
  - Inspect the wheel rims and tires for any damage, slipped belts, bulges, tread depth and unusual wear patterns and make any necessary repairs to correct this. Get the tires properly spin-balanced.
  
  - Install the wheels, but do *not* use any lubricant or anti-seize on the studs or nuts - they both should be clean and dry - and tighten the wheels in a diagonal pattern, gradually increasing torque until you reach 90 ft/lbs. Use a proper torque wrench and *never* exceed the proper torque. Cheap and reasonably reliable torque wrenches are easily available for around $40 at "Northern Tools + Equipment" or, amazingly, as little as $9 at "Harbor Freight". At that price, there is *no* excuse for not using a proper torque wrench.
  
  - Check the brake fluid and top-up if needed. If it needs a lot of fluid, check again for leaks... you've got one somewhere.
  
  - Check and adjust the tire pressures when the tires are *cold*. Maximum pressure is written on the side of the tire, usually in small print hear the rim.
  
  - Check the frame of the trailer, particularly where the main tongue goes into the "Y" of the frame at the front - this is a known rust-through area on Mac frames, and it rusts from the inside-out, so hit it with a hammer to be sure it's not ready to snap - you want to hear a nice solid 'bang' - if you get a dull 'thud' then start poking with a sharp screwdriver to see if there's hidden weakness. Pay special attention areas adjacent to welds.
  
  - Check to ensure your safety chains are the proper length and aren't damaged
  
  - Check to be sure you have the right size hitch-ball - the Mac trailer uses a 2" ball. 1-7/8" will rattle around and drive you nuts, not to mention being less than safe.
  
  - Check the tightness of your hitch ball securing nut. (I usually pin-fit that nut, as they are known to get loose and that's *very* dangerous. See see here for how to pin-fit the nut and permanently prevent that from occurring).

Other than what you mentioned, make sure you do a 'walkabout' on the following schedule:

• - once after the first 15 minutes of driving
  - once an hour for the next few hours
  - then at least every 3 hours for ongoing driving.

On your walkabout:

• - Check the temperature of the tires with the palms of your hands (this quickly tells you if the pressure is OK) as well as the tempreature of the wheel hubs (this will catch a dragging brake or a bad bearing).
  
  - Check the tightness of the lug nuts with your torque wrench (should be 90 ft/lbs).
  
  - Check your lights.
  
  - Check the security of your hitch and chains. If you didn't pin-fit your hitch-ball nut, check the tightness of that as well.
  
  - Check your tie-down straps, the winch line, and the security of your boat's hatch covers.
  
  - Check your own car's tires with the palm-of-hand method used above. This will tell you if you have any tire under pressure or if you're too heavily loaded on one end or the other of the car.

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On edit:

As Rich notes below, very few rental companies will insure you for towing something with their truck. Check this with the rental company, and get it in *writing* before signing the rental agreement.

Make sure that the rental company that you use will allow you to tow your own trailer. Some don't and it might void all of your insurance and make you liable for damages to their vehicle.

Rich---Hamin' X---N7ZH

UHaul is an exception to this, if you rent a large enough truck, they will allow you to tow one of your own vehicles. Brought Catigale home this way in 2002.

It sounds like very good advice especially the preparations for the trailering and Rental Company / Insurance information.

Budget as unlimited mileage UH is fixed so I thought I would pick the former. I already cover the boat / rentals through SF under a full coverage policy but I will check with my agent to confirm it really means "full" coverage.

I don’t think I will have enough time to prep the Trailer myself and plan on having a Bellingham WA trailer shop that BWY recommended do the work for me.

We also have been taking about a $4500 Galvanized Trailer King Dual Axle for my boat but gee I’ve already put almost $7,000 above what I bought it for and kind of want to hold off on putting too much more into it just now.

Still any advice on a Dual Axle Trailer? It doesn’t really seem any trailers are made specifically for a MACX. If I could locate one it might make it easier to decide.

Well at least a Full Enclosure is less of a need as I will be taking her out into the Chesapeake Bay instead of the Sound. @#$% those thing are expensive, sunshine and warm days during the winter, who would have ever thought it!

Thanks again!

I would highly recommend upgrading to 15-inch tires. So many have had problems with the 14-inch stock tires.

I put on lengthened rear shackles to ensure tire clearance with the fenders. Others have raised the fenders.

I live in Hampton, VA. PM me when you are ready to hit the lower bay.

Someone on the NETS board has an article on adapting a Venture trailer to a

Looks like you can buy the galvanised version of this trailer with tandem wheels (forgotten if tandem or dual is the right coinage) for about 2500 USD.

For that long trip - buy a torque wrench and tighten those lug nuts correctly as Kevin recommends..dont wing it and guess.

Thanks Kevin & Catigale I will add a torque wrench to my tool kit! Kevin I am going to print your road advice and tape it to the dash!

$2500 would be a much easier price to pay! Venture trailers list “tandem wheels” so I assume that would be the correct verbiage?

I will look around on the net and see what Dealers I can find it the Seattle Area and what they would want. The easy thing about it is my boat is in Dry storage off the trailer so I can have my trailer taken to a dealer for fitting.

Pete I might just take you up on the offer if it is anything like today! I went down to Virginia Beach this morning and back up through Hampton on to Yorktown and the Bay looked so Beautiful and SUNNY!

Coming out of the Sound it really made me “Boat Sick”!

PS I noticed Venture Trailers are made in Baltimore. I think I will call and see what they have to say! Thanks agin!

One question I have of all of you, though... does anyone here use 'ball grease' on their hitch ball? (Don't laugh, please - the stuff really exists)

I don't use it - I have this feeling that it will do nothing more than attrack road dust and grit and cause more harm than good. But I'm certainly open to argument either way.

So... who here uses it, and is it useful?

I usually put a thin layer of grease on the ball to prevent corrosion and keep it quieter..I just use some leak from the Bearing Buddies to do this though.

If the tires are properly inflated to full pressure (on the sidewall) and well cared for, and are less than five years old, I don't think you should have any problems with the two axle trailer. I haven't. However, avoid curbs, potholes etc., slow down for rail crossings, and keep highway speeds at 65mph or below, especially in the summer when heat buildup can kill tires quickly.

Kevin has a comprehensive list, to whcih I might add: check lights occasionally during the day as well as at night. After all those brake lights and turn signals are keeping following traffic out of your motor and transom.

I use a white stainless ball grease containing Teflon I bought at an RV store. I believe StarBright is the brand. I began using it because after only one 3,000 mile trip the chrome was worn off the new ball and it was showing rust. Since keeping a light coat of grease on the ball it no longer rusts and no longer squeaks going around corners at slow speed in the city. A small $3 jar lasted 11 years. I just had to replace it last year. To avoid it collecting dust and grit when not in use I cover it with an old tennis ball.

I carry a spare set of bearings when towing my boat or tool trailer over long distances. In addition to the bearings, my spare kit includes:
Bearing Buddies and Bra (I have lost one while driving cross country)
Cotter pins
Can of wheel bearing grease
Grease gun and cartridge (for bearing buddies)
3 Folding orange reflective triangles
Orange safety vest
Wheel chocks (wood blocks)
A ¾”x 12” x 12” piece of plywood (base for jack in soft soil)
Rags
Break cleaner
Hammer (for tapping the bearing buddies off)

Bearing info based on my 2002 trailer

The following items are NAPA part numbers:

Outer bearing: Timken set 14 (bearing and race) or just the bearing #BR14
Inner bearing: Timken set 17 (bearing and race) or just the bearing #BR17
Grease seal: 17146
When repacking your bearings, look on the inside of the bearing and race to find the part #. Take them to a parts store for a cross reference brand.

Big scissors jack, big wrench to make sure that nut under the hitch ball is tighter than tight (mine fell off in Philly and I found out it was off in Oklahoma). I carry a spare hub with preinstalled, pregreased bearings now.
Small sledge hammer, pry tool, channel locks, grease gun, tire chocks, 4 way tire wrench, tire inflator, couple warning triangles, work light, Lock for the hitch coupler and lock for the draw bar pin. 3 red light bar strapped to the outboard lower unit, check out the trailer lights, carry spare bulbs, voltmeter, extra tie lines to secure boat to trailer, put a few heavy things in the bow of the boat and remove or empty the fuel tanks. Make sure all of the ballast water is drained out.

Truck stops (flying J or whatever) and huge cups of coffee are your best friends.

One more thought on trailering...

Your trailer box is a perfect place to throw those outdated boat flares for use if you have a roadside incident at night. Guys at our yacht club have told me they have been hassled by authorities for having outdated flares on board, even if they have enough current ones....ymmv.

Sounds like a great trip in the making.

Getting into Denver involves either coming in from Salt Lake City,Utah or Cheyenne, Wyoming.

I prefer the Seattle - Salt Lake City route, and then heading east through Grand Junction on I-70. The downside (no pun intended) is after climbing up to The Eisenhower Tunnel @11,280 ft. the drop down into Denver with the Mac pushing up your ar$e can be quite frightening..........I know....I've hauled my Mac twice over there before. Pulling with a 13,000 lb RV was my saving grace, but boy those brake rotors must have been close to being white hot when the road finally levelled off.!!
That said, I will admit it being the most scenic and interesting route, if you think you can afford taking your eyes off the bleedin' road!

An easier way is Seattle - Billings, Montana - I-80 into Cheyenne, Wyoming - Denver.........and a lot less nail biting too.

Either way, you'll have a great trip. All the good advice above from the others should be heeded.


Cheers..R