OK, thanks. I'm going to cover a few more things here and I'll try to but in BOLD PRINT, the main topic of each paragraph so that you guys can skim through and read the things that catch your eye in which you may have some interest or input. I would start new topics, but by the end of the week, I'd have the whole first page lined up with nothing but new topics an posts and questions from me, so I'm going to try to keep it all in here, until I get a better idea of all these basics and have more specific questions, pics, mods. to post. Is that cool with everyone?
OK, I can see how those REAR PULPIT BRACKETS could be used to support the boom when it's down. It's just strange that the previous owner didn't know what it was for nor did the original owner before him. I haven't seen any pics of these being used either. I suppose I can just built a wooden support with a rubber V at the top and some eyes to attach a bungee cord to. One thing I don't understand, is why they are at an angle? Wny not straight up in the center? Maybe to keep out of the way of the tiller when it's installed? I guess that makes sense. Does anyone possibly have a picture of how they have this set up if in fact they still use it? I can see how i could easily build a support to fit here, though I see a lot of people with some type of metal pole support in the center of the cockpit or on the stern, and many who just strap it on top of the pulpits. However, I plan on making or buying a mast raising system, so it would be nice to go ahead and build and install something at the stern to support the mast and hold it up at an angle so it would be easier to winch up into place. I'd like to make a mast raising system with a 12v electric winch.
How does the Macgregor MAST RAISING SYSTEM fit onto a stock Mac 25? Does the whole metal plate (mast step) have to be replaced in order to have a place for the (gin pole?) to mount? Or has anyone found a way to mount a pole to the factory Macgregor mast step. I was thinking of custom building a pole that could mount to the stock mast step, or possibly weld a bracket onto the front of the trailer where I can (with a couple of heavy duty bolts,) install and take off a custom made pole with a roller on top to keep the winch cable off of the bow and pulpit. I was thinking about making the pole out of either some square steel tubing, or maybe some heavy duty round tubing, (either galvanized steel or aluminum) such as you would use as a fence post, (not the small ones, I'm talking like 3" or so.) From there, I could either mount an electric winch directly to the pole, similar to how the hand winch is mounted on the Mac mast raising system, or mount the winch to a bracket in the bed of my truck, so as to give it and easier angle to pull from. I'd run the remote for the winch long enough so that I could operate it while standing in the cockpit steadying the mast as she raises and making sure rigging isn't getting hung. You guys have any thoughts about this or has anyone already done something similar? I read through all the mods. I've seen where guys that had an anchor locker on the bow mounted a 12v winch there to raise the mast, but being as that my Mac 25 doesn't have that, I'd rather mount it outside the boat (on a bracket made and mounted to the trailer or to the bed of my truck). All of this would be completely removable, a couple of bolts or pins to hold the winch on and take it off and a couple of bolts to hold the guiding pole (gine pole?) in place wherever I mount it. (Sorry if I get some of this terminology wrong, I try to research it and find the correct names and describe what I'm talking about as well as possible if I'm not sure exactly the proper name for it.) If fact, let me start a new paragraph in order to ...
clarify a few things I referred to improperly...
I had referred to "padeyes" a few times when that wasn't the correct terminology for what I was describing. I do have a padeye on both the port and starboard quarters which the previous owner had one block on one side for the the main sheet to run through and then back up to the double block on the boom, and on the other side the padeye was used for the end of the main sheet to be tied off (or clipped to in this case). I had incorrectly referred to other pieces of hardware which I believe may be called fairleads or deck eyes. They are the round black plastic eyes with a metal center for ropes to run through that are mounted in a few places on the deck (top of cabin), and also on the rails/sliders located on the cockpit coaming directly behind the cabin. (I assume the top of the cabin may actually be reffered to as the bulkhead, is that correct?) There is also another one I referred to as a padeye on the swivel cam cleat which is on the port quarter mounted to the cockpit coaming, and is where the end of the main sheet is run and controlled from. As seen in the diagram above which Mike so graciously posted, there is a swivel block that seems to be either attached to the swivel cam cleat, or directly behind it, allowing much smoother movement and operation of the main sheet, especially when trying to let some sheet out. Well, for one, mine is set up the opposite of the diagram above, the swivel cam cleat is mounted on the port side and the padeye with the block is located on the starboard. I assume that's all personal preference and can be changed easily enough if needed. But as I stated in a post above, I don't have that block that it shows the main sheet running through right before it goes into the (fairlead?) on the swivel cam cleat. So as it is right now, the main sheet does not move very freely and to let out some sheet, you have to turn the swivel to allow it to align better and release the sheet more easily, and you have to push the boom if you're going to get it to move very far. It's also rough on the rope, as you can see in the picture above, the rope on it now is very soft and "fuzzy", pretty worn, and I have a new one to replace it, but feel like I need to solve the problem of adding the missing block first. The previous owner said he just ran the sheet through the eye on the swivel cam cleat and that's how he used it. So anyway, I can either add another padeye directly behind the swivel cam cleat and attach a swivel block to it, or I can attach a swiveling block to the padeye that the end of the main sheet is attached to, and then cleat off the end of the main sheet a few inches over on the stern to a regular cleat which is already there, I believe once used to cleat off a line used for raising and lowering the outboard motor. But doing the latter will change the angle in which the sheet runs up to the fiddle block on the end of the boom, thus possibly altering the performance of the rig and the ability of the sheet to move freely. So it seems to me, unless there is a swivel cam cleat with a built in swiveling block attachment which I can use to replace the one I have now, the best and easiest thing to do would be to install another padeye directly behind the swivel cam cleat, between it and the other padeye which the end of the main sheet is attached. Sorry this is getting so long-winded. But I'm just trying to figure this out so I can #!: get it on the water for a test run asap, and #2: know what I need to to later to get it set up permanently the way it needs to be. So, any input on solving this problem or does anyone have any pics of how theirs is set up? My pic above of the main sheet setup wasn't so good, I can take another showing the whole thing, and then a closeup with detail of the padeye and swivel cam cleat I keep speaking of and their location.
I believe I've figured out how to run the jib sheets. There are two of those round plastic "fairleads" mounted on the top of the cabin (bulkhead?), one on either side at the very edge, maybe a couple of feet behind the mast. Then there are two more, one on each of the sliders/rails (maybe called the jib rail?) located down on the front of the cockpit coamings, right behind the cabin as I mentioned earlier. You can see all of these in the pics I posted above. From a picture or two I've seen, people have run the jib sheets through these eyes ,"fairleads" then outside of the safety lifelines and the shrouds, and down to the (jib rail or track) on the cockpit coaming and to the winches. Others I've seen have nothing passing through the foremost eyes or fairleads but have the jib sheet run outside of the shrouds and lifelines and straight down to the fairlead on the track and to the winches. The latter looks to be the most commonly used method, but still it seems as if it would cause a lot of rubbing on the fiberglass corners of the cabin and get hung up and rub on the shrouds and lifelines. But is this just the way it is, or is there a better way, including blocks somewhere for the jib sheets to run through to make things run more smoothly and keep the hangups and rubbing down to a minimum? And if you don't use the foremost fairleads on either side of the cabin top for the jib, then what are they used for, the genoa or a spinnaker or something?
I don't have a spin. I have a very nice barely used genoa. I've never used one before. Do it's sheets run the same as your standard jib, or differently? I've also got a good twist locking telescoping whisker pole. I've never used one of these either, but have read about how to use them. I assume they come in handy especially with the genoa, but do you guys use them with your regular jib as well?
OK, I think I've covered enough on this post. Hope you guys don't mind and that some of you can help and/or learn some from these postings as well. As always, any input appreciated. I'm about to go work on her some now, and I'll take some better pictures and anything else I have a question about I will post with a specific picture of it as well on my next post. Thanks alot.