Clever solution to the airlock issue, Tom! The old ABYC H22 said it was OK to have a check valve to prevent pump cycling. Don't know what the new one says. I think the problem comes when you try to use a check valve to correct a poor discharge location (backwash). That's the trouble with codes and s...
The calcs were a means to quantify how much time one may have to work with...and to get thinking on plan A--Plan B---Plan C---etc.
The round orifice aspect is something one can readily calculate as a reference.
I'm not doubting the calculations whatsoever and I've seen a through hull removed below the waterline so I know how quickly water shoots in. My takeaway is this - in the event of a mild to severe leak, be prepared to stuff pillows, extra sails, flex seal (kinda kidding), or anything you can fit int...
I trust you're right so I won't try to argue with the math here.... but the actual time your bilge pump will remain effective is not until when the water fills the cabin enough to reach the companionway floor, but is actually when the water rises above the batteries and shorts them out... maybe 24"...
I hate to tell you, but if you have a significant hull breach, an electric bilge pump won't save you. A bucket might. I remember when I pulled the knot meter transducer from my Hunter, a hole about an inch and a half, the water gushed in like a fire hose. It was quite terrifying to think if I could...
Just bought a :macx: towards the end of last season- took her out a few times and no major problems found. Few questions before I get her in the water this year- Nav/anchor light- Anchor light did not work at all- wiring was shot; nav lights worked but were extremely weak (assuming corroded/poor wi...