It's plenty strong for the designed application, but if you're integrating the fitting into standing rigging you may consider improving the backing plate. All other items of standing rigging are the strongest fittings on boat (except for maybe the outboard mount), tied directly into the hull.

On a serious note, though, if the 26M is anything like my 25, the stanchions aren't secured very well thru the deck (just some fender washers on the other side). I have some aftermarket stern cleats with a proper backing plate that I use for anchoring my mainsheet system and spinnaker sheets (in add...

A previous owner crashed it into the State of Wisconsin while on Lake Michigan in a storm.

I considered putting runners on mine to accommodate a square-top main but thought the better of it, partially because I didn't have a good attachment point through the deck to the hull. Your friend has a point - it's not so much the wind-driven load on the rig or how tight you have your runners, it'...

Do you mean standing rigging? I'd never do that since Dyneema chafes pretty easily and is susceptible to UV damage - neither of which apply to stainless steel. That said, I've been considering replacing my lifelines with dyneema when I install cushions so that I don't have to swage new wire ones, an...

Macs have very fractional rigs, so a big genoa/Code 0 really doesn't gain you much unless you raise the hoist height (inadvisable in all but the lightest air, since the mast is unsupported above the shrouds). The main provides most of your power. A good genoa will perform just fine, and you'll have ...

Where are you located? I have a spare for my M25 that is broken but repairable with a little glass and epoxy.

If you live somewhere near a boatyard, you might at least consider the option of using their travel lift and putting your boat up on jackstands for a little while. Higher upfront cost but saves a lot of time, effort, and headache. Sometimes you can talk your way into a good deal.

I pulled my Mac25's keel off a few years ago, but it was considerably easier since the keel sits outside the hull when retracted. We were able to do it on the trailer - dropped the head down off the bolt using a floor jack and dragged it back onto a cradle using a come-along. One option I considered...

Easy enough to make your backstay adjustable, too - just cut it a few feet shorter, re-swage the eye, and add a 4:1 or 5:1 purchase in the space you just created. BWY also sells a kit.

I know I'm resurrecting a topic from March here, but I would like to point out that the Mac 25/26's very fractional sailplan doesn't lend itself well to a Code 0 style sail. For a true "drifter" sail I'd almost be tempted to run a masthead halyard (just take it down in a hurry if it starts...

I'll dig up some photos when I have a chance. Basically there's a plywood spacer between the top of the keel trunk and the cabin liner that the post sits on. The plywood is suspect, as the liner is sagging a little. My plan is to remove the liner under the compression post to access the wood, replac...

Has anyone rebuilt the top of the keel trunk where the compression post rests? Mine is really starting to sag, probably due to rotten plywood. My plan is to remove the post and bulkhead and cut the fiberglass top off with a oscillating tool. Then I can remove/replace the old core and either replace ...

Thought I'd offer an update, 2 years on from the initial restoration. We just finished our first scored series on the boat racing PHRF in the spinnaker class, and we were within a few dumb mistakes of 2nd place overall! I was a little disappointed after we lost the series-deciding race to our rival,...

Good discussion here: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?204392-Epoxy-alternative-it-West-System I looked for alternatives for my keel project before deciding that West was worth the extra bucks. You're only saving $20-30 with other 5:1 systems per gallon (your rudder project will probably u...