Trailer Questions

A forum for discussing issues relating to trailers and towing MacGregor sailboats.

Moderators: Catigale, Paul S, Heath_Mod, beene, Hamin' X, kmclemore, tangentair

macowneril2015
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Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Downtown Chicago, 2001 26X, 2001 50 Hp Nissan (NS50D2)

Trailer Questions

Post by macowneril2015 » Mon Feb 22, 2016 3:16 pm

The 26x I purchased came with the factory steel trailer with titan 60 drum brakes. The lights are pretty much trash and the master cylinder on the system is trashed so I was planning on changing that and the solenoid, also the bearings as well, I am not sure the condition of the drum brakes. They appear pretty rusty, I did tow it without the brakes about 12 miles because the location I bought it made me move it immediately. I am posting to find out what else I should replace and if there is a reasonable costing light system kit that I can swap out the old lights for. My tow vehicle is a chevy tahoe with a towing package. Another question related to towing is my outboard in the fully down position would hit the ground while I towed it so I need to have it trimmed up which is considered dangerous to the transom so I am not sure a solution for that either.

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Herschel
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Herschel » Mon Feb 22, 2016 3:34 pm

Another question related to towing is my outboard in the fully down position would hit the ground while I towed it so I need to have it trimmed up which is considered dangerous to the transom so I am not sure a solution for that either.
I am now aware of any issues for the transom with towing the boat with the engines in the up position. It is essential to do so. I have towed my 26X with the engine in the up position from Michigan to Florida, from Orlando to Atlanta and back, and all around Central Florida for 12 years. I engage the bracket that supports the engine in the up position so it doesn't rely on the hydraulics to remain up. As far as trailer parts are concerned, I have generally just googled for what I am wanting and found a good price with good technical help. I was impressed with the help and pricing at Trailerparts.com the last time I contacted them, but have not needed to use them extensively since.

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Tomfoolery
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Tomfoolery » Mon Feb 22, 2016 4:12 pm

I didn't even bother trying to fix the old drum brake mess on my trailer. To make things worse, it has a second axle, also with drum brakes. And I burned them all pretty good just bringing it the 20 miles home, with grease spitting out of the hubs.

I bought a disc brake kit, also Titan, and just changed the whole thing out. The coupler was welded on, so I ground off the welds, and drilled the tongue and bolted on the new coupler. I could have just replaced the guts of the old one, which was identical, with parts from the new one, but that seemed kind of, well, lazy. So I ground off the welds, cleaned things up, and bolted on the new one. Ran new brake lines, new discs (rear axle only), and cleaned up the newer (non-original) drums and reused them with no brakes.

The kit is $440 from etrailer, and comes with everything you need. Including a reverse lock-out solenoid, which is powered from a pin in my Jeeps 7-blade RV type receptacle when I put it in reverse.

For lights, I used the sealed and submersible 'over 80' style LED lights from Harbor Freight; probably the best bargain out there for submersible tail lights. Still working fine after 5 seasons, with a lot of dunking. LED side markers/clearance lights, and ID lights (the three across the back, 6-12" spacing, to indicate the trailer is over 80" wide).

As to the OB, I tilt it up all the way, flip the mechanical lock down, but leave it on the hydraulics. The OB is almost balanced on its hinge when it's all the way up, which means there is only minimal 'prying' load on the transom. Mostly just vertical shear load. But remember that 2/3 of 50 hp at the prop (guessing at 1/3 of the power lost to friction) at 16 mph means the prop is pushing with about 780 lb of force. On the bottom of that long leg. With all that leverage. Trailering with the engine up, even bouncing over bumps, doesn't come remotely close to the same reaction on the transom. Or the hydraulics, as it's also used to trim the engine under way.

Here's the link to the brake system I bought. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes ... 43100.html There are others, including all stainless versions from other manufacturers. Mine are still working just fine after five seasons.

Here's a thread about those trailers in which I posted a few pics and a description of the work. http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... 2&p=237559 I probably should post the highlights to a mod page for easy reference by others. :|

macowneril2015
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Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2015 8:51 pm
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Downtown Chicago, 2001 26X, 2001 50 Hp Nissan (NS50D2)

Re: Trailer Questions

Post by macowneril2015 » Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:22 pm

Thank you so much. This is my spring break project I will post when I start and when I am finished.

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grady
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by grady » Mon Feb 22, 2016 8:57 pm

I would fix the drum brakes! If keep up there is nothing wrong with drums. The only advantage to to changing over to disk brakes is they will not overheat when you are practicing your track times with the trailer attached. :D :D Also yo do not need to worry about backing up a hill without putting a lockout in. Not that most people do that much.

kevinnem
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by kevinnem » Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:12 pm

Just wanted to add. I did that upgrade kit, it worked out pretty well, though I could have made the wiring look more pretty.

If I could do it all over again, I would use electric or what is called electric over hydralic. for the reason mentioned, is that I DO have to back up up hill, and having the breaks lock when you do that is annoying.

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Jimmyt
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Jimmyt » Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:25 pm

You might want to consider silicone brake fluid when you put it back together. Non-hygroscopic, and won't eat paint (might not be a concern on your trailer). It's pricey, but makes a huge difference in humid area applications as far as the hydraulic system internal corrosion goes.

My brakes are still in good shape, but when I have to do them, I'll go back with silicone.

Use it in my older cars and have been really pleased with it.

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Doug W
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Doug W » Tue Feb 23, 2016 12:21 am

macowneril2015 wrote:The 26x I purchased came with the factory steel trailer with titan 60 drum brakes. The lights are pretty much trash and the master cylinder on the system is trashed so I was planning on changing that and the solenoid, also the bearings as well, I am not sure the condition of the drum brakes. They appear pretty rusty, I did tow it without the brakes about 12 miles because the location I bought it made me move it immediately. I am posting to find out what else I should replace
"a rusty old unlit trashed master cylinder steel trailer?!".... how about replacing the whole trailer? Oh boy! Have I Got A Deal For YOU!!!

I just happened to have picked up a new 2016 tandem axle aluminum trailer (foreground in this picture) for our 26M so that means that I have a 2010 Aluminum Trailer I need to sell (Visible in barn with Galactica sitting on it) ! 8) And I'm only a 6 hour drive away...actually, Chicago is around four hours from the lake that we use! :P

Less than 3000 miles on the rubber on the ground and the spare is brand spanking new...

pm me if interested... I really don't know if you'd have to change the bunk angles to accommodate the different hull shape of the 26X.

Image

Doug

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Tomfoolery
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Tomfoolery » Tue Feb 23, 2016 8:18 am

These are the lights I was referring to. They're the only submersibles HF sells. Not such a bargain any more, as they don't come with amber side markers like when I bought mine (for less money, no less). And they're mismarked - says trailers under 80" width, but they have separate clearance lights (the little area between the reflectors), which is what makes them suitable for over 80" (DOT technicality that clearance light elements not be part of stop/turn lights, so that little area doesn't get brighter when turn/stop is engaged). http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-subme ... 61306.html

I also added non-submersible lights to the leg of the outboard for highway travel, as the mast the OB hang too far past the tail lights to be legal in most states, and I like having brake lights in the face of a tailgater when I'm poking along, especially at night and/or in heavy rain.

Image

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Doug W
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Doug W » Tue Feb 23, 2016 5:29 pm

Tomfoolery wrote:... and I like having brake lights in the face of a tailgater when I'm poking along, especially at night and/or in heavy rain.

Image
Great idea!

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Seapup
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Seapup » Tue Feb 23, 2016 6:33 pm

"a rusty old unlit trashed master cylinder steel trailer?!".... how about replacing the whole trailer? Oh boy! Have I Got A Deal For YOU!!!
:D :D :D

I would jump on that 10,000x over before sinking any money into a stock X trailer if you want it to keep it more than a few years.

You mentioned slipping it for the summer and storing for winter. If it is just a short trip to the ramp maybe wait till you dump the boat off and the trailer is empty to do the work.

The price of overhauling a older steel trailer can quickly approach a used galvanized or aluminum tandem axle. Lots of boats here are lift/boatel kept and the owners sell the trailers vs paying storage.

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Gazmn
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by Gazmn » Wed Feb 24, 2016 12:07 am

+1 on Seapup :wink:

macowneril2015
Chief Steward
Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2015 8:51 pm
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
Location: Downtown Chicago, 2001 26X, 2001 50 Hp Nissan (NS50D2)

Re: Trailer Questions

Post by macowneril2015 » Wed Feb 24, 2016 12:21 pm

In all honesty the deal I got on the boat was so good I was planning on it being a starter sailboat and maybe selling it in a year or two. Also I am a decent mechanic/welder and I have an electrician background so I figured this might be a fun little project for me and some buddies but if the price is right I may take your advice on a new trailer.




-Mike

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mrron_tx
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by mrron_tx » Wed Feb 24, 2016 12:32 pm

new dual axle x 4 brakes trailer.......do it once and its done..... :) Best of luck on whatever You decide :) Ron.

macowneril2015
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Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
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Re: Trailer Questions

Post by macowneril2015 » Sun Mar 20, 2016 11:51 am

I have the stock trailer single axle, drum brakes. Could anyone point me in the right direction in what size bearings I need.

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