Steel Trailer Reno

[Neo]

One thing I'm really bad at is remembering to take progress photos of my projects. But this evening I managed to snap these photos just before sunset.....



Here's what I've done to my Tandem Axle Trailer so far...

• Removed all electrics, brake cables, bunks winch post/ladder/Jack.
  Remove old rusted mudgaurds and mounting brackets
  Cut out old rusted drawbar, ground back any signs of corrosion and treated every patch with Action Rust Removal Gel http://www.actioncorrosion.com.au/produ ... moval-gel/ .... This stuff is gold!!!
  Fabricate new Goal Posts out of 3mm galvanised tubing .... Tubes let water to escape at the bottom
  Fabricate new rear/side bunks out of 4mm galvanised flat-bar
  Weld up that stupid hole that Macgregor drilled at the back of the drawbar!!
  Align and weld new drawbar - 75x75x5mm Box section Tubing Galvanized inside and out
  Drill new hole on top of drawbar which allows the welds to be painted on the inside and doubles up as a periodic inspection port.
  Weld new adaption brackets for 2000Kg Tow ball coupling .... I did not use the commonly available coupling adaption plate as these are a major reason for draw bar rust.
  Align and weld on winch post/ladder/Jack
  Had the whole trailer sandblasted and sprayed the 1st coat of POR-15 (Rust Preventive Coating http://www.por15.com/POR-15_Rust_Preventive_Coating ) today.

The next coat will be brush painted but to be honest I'm knacked! (very tired) ... I'll take a break tomorrow but it's good to see my Corrosion Free Steel Trailer coming together

All the best.
Neo

[Retcoastie]

You're my hero! Good job.

[Tomfoolery]

Looks like you moved the original axle forward a bit and added the second. Not quite as far forward as mine is, but the additional tongue weight you have would be welcome. Don't have to move as much stuff forward for good trailering.

That's the first Mac trailer I've seen with slipper springs, too. Not equalized.

[Neo]

You're my hero! Good job.

Fly me over to Kentucky Ret and I'll do the same to your trailer ..... BTW where do you sail around there?


Hi Tom,

The tandem axle was done by the 1st owner (I'm the 3rd). Yes the slipper springs seem unusual. Hope they work well when my Mac's onboard. I guess slipper springs would make the trailer lower to the ground than equalized springs?

Macgregor made cable supports out of washers, welded to the inside of the C-Channel. My trailer had none so today I welded on some 6mm Gal Shackles inside the C-Channel. Now I can unscrew the shackle pins then drop in the hydraulic pipe and the lighting cable with ease. ... Will post up a photo when I can.

All the best.
Neo

[Retcoastie]

Neo wrote

Fly me over to Kentucky Ret and I'll do the same to your trailer ..... BTW where do you sail around there?

I would if I could just to watch you work. Its been a long time since I had that much energy.

I took her to Cave Run Lake once to meet up with the Lexington Sailing Club, but was not impressed. I took her down the Cumberland River and went to Cumberland Lake once. Kentucky is just not a mecca for sailing. Most sails are far away, Florida, Chesapeake Bay, or Great Lakes. We now have two kids in school so no more winter trips to Florida. Everything revolves around school schedules. Last Flight hasn't seen water in going on three years now. But the bright side is the trailer is not being exposed to salt water.

Ken

[Neo]

Hey Ken ..... Just caught up with your last post, sorry for the late reply .... I guess it tough when you don't good water close by but I'm your Sailing days will come.

Well finishing the trailer has taken ALOT lone than expected but it's 99% done now.
I was hoping to pop my Mac in the water to do the swap over (with the old trailer) but weather is forecasted for a heatwave and then rain for the next 5 day .... maybe I'll do the swap over after that

To add to my list above I have....
Cut off all 4 axle subs, set both axles to the same width and drop on the trailer.
Welded on a new crossbar and fitted new "Keel Roller" .... to lift the bow into the front bunk.
Threw away the UFP brakes and fitted new Deemax calipers to the front axle.
Installed steel braided/rubber brake hoses from the 7/8 MC to both calipers.
Made a fully waterproof wiring loom and wired in a full set of waterproof LED lights.
Made up new wooden bunks with plastic skids secured them down with Stainless Steel fasteners.

Last jobs pending ....
Weld on support brackets and Tandem Mudguards .... with the Mac onboard.
Paint Mudguards and support brackets.
Fit Mugard LED lights.
Fit new wobble rollers to top of goal post.
Fit new white wheels to front axle .... Currently on order.
One coat of primer and one coat of 2 pack on the outside of the C-Channel .... POR15 is tough but it's not UV stable and needs something on top to finish it off.

[Tomfoolery]

Nice work, Neo!

That bow roller is something I've been thinking about for a while. I can't get my trailer deep enough into the water at my marina (super steep ramp) to easily get the bow onto the bunk, but a roller would help greatly with that by getting it started. Another option would be another bunk, further back, just for elevating the bow as it moves forward, but a roller would be easier to fab and install.

I can load the boat at a 'normal' ramp without draining the ballast, but at mine I have to drain the ballast to raise the bow or it's not going on without a real fight, and that can be rough on the boat. Or the trailer, if I back it even further and the wheels drop off the concrete from all the power loading folks do, including the contractor who hauls most of the big boats out for cradle storage.

[Neo]

Hi Tom,

My single axle (SA) trailer came with a bow roller so I've never retrieved a Mac without one. But as an indication of how good they are I've pulled my Mac out of the water (twice) with the ballast tank full (forgot to empty the tank both times ). I had to move the trailer up the ramp one meter at a time (with the ballast gate open) but my point is the bow roller enabled me to get the bow just onto the 1st bunk... and a Mac Bump did the rest later.
I don't think another bunk will work well on a shallow ramp and is actually a lot more work (and expense) than a bow roller. The cross bar on my SA trailer was bolted on by the PO.... This is a really bad place to get rusty bolt holes so on my Tandem trailer I've welded a length of Gal rectangular box section inside the channel... Then painted it all with POR15. I can post up a photo if need be?

BTW I have a self-Centering 8" Roller on my SA trailer .... that helps a bit during retrieval too.

All the best.
Neo

[Neo]

I was previously considering having brakes on the rear axle but because my springs are not load balance (slipper springs) I realise now that would have been a big mistake....
The photo below shows my trailer reversed up my steep driveway and is the equivalent of driving down a steep hill. You might notice that the rear tyres are off the ground ... So in this situation, even with the weight of my Mac onboard, the rear axle load is lighter than the front axle.... With some hard downhill braking I guess they could have literally lifted off the ground?!

[Neo]

....... and sprayed the 1st coat of POR-15 (Rust Preventive Coating http://www.por15.com/POR-15_Rust_Preventive_Coating )

Just an update on this .... This POR-15 is CRAP!!! .... I have now started planning my next Refurb/New Build .... I wish I'd listened to the guy at the Sandblasters, paid the extra and and gone Galvanised

[Herschel]

I have a question. I painted my steel '98 trailer once a few years ago, and I was not sure how to deal with the springs. I assume you grind as much on the upper and lower surfaces/leaves and as best you can on the edges of each leaf. That is what I did. You don't try to take the springs apart and do each leaf's upper and lower surfaces do you?

[Neo]

Hi Herschel,

All I did was treat my springs with Action Rust Removal Gel http://www.actioncorrosion.com.au/produ ... moval-gel/ then hand pain staight over them with that POR15. The Gel the best anti-corrosion treatment I've found. I personally would not grind (wire brush maybe) my springs because it could cause a weak spot.
If you have Cornflake size chunks of rust coming off your springs then I'd seriously consider replacing them. In Australia the Road Authority, for many years, has warned against Galvanised springs because the Gal process can weaken them. But the shops still sell them at premium rates so I'm not sure if Gal Springs have a real issue or not.

What type of Trailer are you running?

All the best.
Neo

[Herschel]

Hi Herschel,

All I did was treat my springs with Action Rust Removal Gel http://www.actioncorrosion.com.au/produ ... moval-gel/ then hand pain staight over them with that POR15. The Gel the best anti-corrosion treatment I've found. I personally would not grind (wire brush maybe) my springs because it could cause a weak spot.
If you have Cornflake size chunks of rust coming off your springs then I'd seriously consider replacing them. In Australia the Road Authority, for many years, has warned against Galvanised springs because the Gal process can weaken them. But the shops still sell them at premium rates so I'm not sure if Gal Springs have a real issue or not.

What type of Trailer are you running?

All the best.
Neo

Mine is the OEM original steel trailer. So far no "cornflakes", just the odd "rash" of rust here and there. It has been stored outside for the whole 20 years. Five years in Michigan and 15 here in Florida.

[Neo]

Pay close attention to the drawbar/A-frame. That hole Macgregor put in the back end (where the brake cable/hose passed through) lets water in but not out because it's raised... That's the main area that rusts (from the inside first) and breaks.