26X sliding hatch track repair question

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Tomfoolery
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26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Tomfoolery »

I've looked all over, and can't locate the answer I need.

When applying velcro to the underside of the hatch, is it a continuous strip, or just several patches on each side?

I think water is coming in from the screw holes for the plastic keeper bar, and the larger screws for the jib track, but I'm not positive. The gelcoat doesn't seem to be so badly worn that water is getting in through there, and I've even dribbled water on them for hours without a drop coming in, so all I can guess is that it's the screw holes.

Any insight on the velcro would be appreciated. 8)
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by kmclemore »

I'd put one long strip on. It will help seal it better against the weather as well as not peeling up as easily.
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by paul I »

I did one long strip on each side of the hatch. Its still there 3 yrs later. I have to spray it with a bit of silicone now and then.
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Wind Chime
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Wind Chime »

Do you put the hook or loop side on, and why?
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by raycarlson »

If you go thru all the trouble of removing the hatch you can do one long strip if you think it's better, leave hatch in and do two saves mucho tiempo.... loop side seems slipperier
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Tomfoolery
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Tomfoolery »

Thanks, guys. One long, loopy strip per side it is.

It's starting to rain now (had to take a break to cut the grass), but I'll finish up prepping the parts and getting some more hardware to replace some of the damaged bits. Some of the nuts were actually half buried in the FG, and my FIL had to use a screw driver to hold the nut while I backed the screw out from above. Can't do that in reverse, as the butyl tape I'm going to put under the flat heads of the screws will get worked out if the screw is turned, so I need to pad some of the nuts out from underneath.

At least it isn't hot outside for the next day or two. Now if it would only stop sprinkling long enough to rebed the hold-down strips and jib car tracks.
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Tomfoolery
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Tomfoolery »

raycarlson wrote:If you go thru all the trouble of removing the hatch you can do one long strip if you think it's better, leave hatch in and do two saves mucho tiempo.... loop side seems slipperier
I had to remove it all, as I'm chasing leaks. Otherwise I wouldn't even bother with the velcro. :wink:
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Lvoight
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Lvoight »

I always wondered if it get dirty and starts holding particles. Have any of you had an issue like this?
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by paul I »

Yes it gets dirty. Yes it holds tiny particles. Very little of it is visible so it isn't objectionable on that count, and most of the particles wash out. Like I said. I spray it with silicone a couple of times per season and it works just fine. Before the loop tape It used to make a horrible screeching noise every time it was opened or closed.
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Tomfoolery »

paul I wrote:Before the loop tape It used to make a horrible screeching noise every time it was opened or closed.
And that screeching is the sound of gel coat wearing off. :P
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by raycarlson »

Gets just as dirty as rest of boat. Just use garden hose sprayer at full power and it all just washes out, mines going on six years and still working well.
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by kmclemore »

Tomfoolery wrote:
paul I wrote:Before the loop tape It used to make a horrible screeching noise every time it was opened or closed.
And that screeching is the sound of gel coat wearing off. :P
Yes, but in most cases the screeching is not from the slides themselves, but from the front edge of the hatch cover rubbing on the deck. The Velcro raises up the cover enough to prevent this happening.
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Update: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by Tomfoolery »

Update: I took off the two keepers with the help of my FIL, cleaned the old sealant off the surfaces, screws, and nuts with various nasty solvents, working behind a box fan acting as a fume hood of sorts. I bought some 1" self-stick velcro, cut a strip of the loop half down the middle with a knife and straight edge, and stuck that onto the bottom of the sliding hatch.

We rebedded the strips with butyl tape, just around the screw holes. With the flat head screws just short of flush with the strips, I wound some butyl tape around the heads, stretched out into a thin strand like bubble gum (that stuff is super stretchy), then pushed them the rest of the way in. The nuts were tightened from below so as not to disturb the sealant under the screw heads. Three screws were actually wood screws, as there was no access to the underside, but the tape seemed to not get pushed out from under the heads.

I didn't repair the worn gel coat, as no water was entering through the worn spots, and they weren't even worn enough to penetrate to the FG, as far as I could tell.

I'm happy to report that after two periods of very heavy rain, lasting a couple of days each time, NO water has come in from under the headliner. It used to drip off the bottom edge, over the table (ruining the map that was under the clear plexi) and on the port side soaking the seat cushions. Not a drop, and I couldn't find a damp spot at any of the screws (the plugs are still soaking on soapy water to clean them up).

I used to get some water on the electric panel under the winch on the port side, which I suspect came from the crappy way the jamb cleat was mounted (inboard screw just sort of kissed the keeper strip, so the hole was just 'there', where the water runs), but it's dry under there at the moment. The real test of that would be with the dodger removed, though there was plenty of water under there from the wind driven rain.

I still need to rebed the mounts for the short struts on the Dowsar dodger (anyone with that dodger knows what I'm talking about), as they're not through-bolted and are loose. I'm sure some water gets in through there. Maybe I'll drill those holes out, fill with epoxy, and rebed the mounts with butyl tape.

It was a LOT of work, as many of the nuts on the starboard side were buried in the FG, and were a real pain to get access to for a socket. A drill with an adapter for a 1/4" drive socket was a huge help. But it was worth the trouble.

The interior is finally dry, and no more boat smell. I had also fixed a major water entry point where the steering cable enters by stuffing the space with (what else) butyl tape, detailed in another thread. Now that I know that's where the big water entry problem was in the stern, I'll look into a boot for a more permanent fix, but the sticky tape is actually hanging in there so far. Not a drop back there, even after all that rain.

Thanks to all for the insights. 8)

Oh, and to Kevin's point, no more screeching. :wink:
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by cptron »

This mod is on my to do list.
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Re: 26X sliding hatch track repair question

Post by mitchmiller »

I used a lubricant to help the hatch slide better. Starbrite makes a clear vaseline-type grease for trailer hitches, and it works for steering, rudder hinges, basically everything that you'd like to lubricate but don't want to use petroleum based grease on. It's clean and the hatch slides like a charm now.
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