Forward Hatch Latch 09, hardware upgrades?

[blue angel]

My forward hatch latch siezed and broke on my M and I never liked it anyway. Is the best option for an ugrade still one chinook mentioned last year ''access the 2008 WestMarine catalogue, it's on page 556. Model number is 256842 and the Perko # 0769DPOCHR"?

(which again I only found courtesy of google not the internal search engine).

any other poor hardware on the m that most folks replace before it fails at a bad time, say when cruising?

[Hamin' X]

I'm not sure what problems you are having with the search function, but it seems to work fine. I put in the search terms "hatch latch replac*" and the thread that you are referring to was the third item. I used the asterisk (*) to retrieve threads that had both replace and replacement in them. I think that with some practice, you will find the search function to be quite good.

~Rich

[ALX357]

The first hatch positioning strut I added was a help, but not completely satisfactory alone.
I eventally installed a sliding strut fixture on each edge of the hatch, two different kinds. One is a tubular telescoping slider with a threaded collar that controls friction, to allow it to be opened to any extent, and held in place. Has two tubes, one inside the other, and the collar tightens the end of the outer tube to provide the friction. This collar can be adjusted, but it does not work as a positive lock very well, since it only adds more or less friction.

The setting I prefer is with just enough friction to hold the hatch at any given position, but not enough to keep if from being moved by hand pressure. Once I found it this precise setting I prefer to leave it alone, and use a different strut to actually lock the hatch's position.
The other strut, on the opposite side, is also telescoping, but a looser slider, with a side knob that can positively lock the hatch at any setting, but not as effective at controlled friction. It is better at just locked, or loose.


Using both together, the hatch behaves very satisfactorily, being able to be opened just a crack, or anywhere to all the way open almost vertical, withoug flopping backwards all the way, and then be locked in place if desired. There is minimal twist on the hatch when pushed because the two struts tend to balance the resisitance.
It is somewhat tricky to get the ajusters mounting location determined, because each strut has a minimum and max length to consider, and the location of attachment on the hatch and on the coaming can determine whether the hatch opens enough.
One other feature is that the hatch can be hyperextended past its tubes extension limit, pulling the struts from their tubes, but this will only happen when the friction strut's collar is completely loosed from its threads, and then the hatch can be laid back onto the deck. I just don't ever find it needed to do this, but it can be done.
The underside of the hatch has a substantial stainless steel handle, both for operating the hatch, and for a hand-hold when lying on your back in the vee berth. Makes it somewhat easier to slide in and out, or lean up a bit, using this overhead handle. It also is easier to pull the hatch shut tight against the weatherstrip when tightening the stock fasterner down.

[blue angel]

Thanks Hammin for the search tip, but part of the problem is that we often don't know the majic combination of words to start the search, if you search for forward hatch fasterner, you find nothing, whether you add the * or not. using meacgregor 26 m and a few key words on google still works better for me, something we might tell newbies who give up on the internal search function and thus do not find what they need, even though it is in the archives

orignially I was just thinking of replacing the single hatch latch in the middle, putting slides on both sides would be another option I guess, though it might be two things to adjust and thus harder?

Not sure how well those longer hatch adjusters from perco might figure into a good fix.

west marine has two options, the telescoping hatch adjuster and also the premium hatch adjuster, and they also have a bunch of of shock adjusters. any practical esperiene with any of these, and how they hang down into sleeping space etc.?

also just wondering how many other hardware pieces I should be replacing while convenient.
i am going to replace those funky little small rounded spinlock clutches for the main and jib halyard with some good old fashioned rope clutches that will fasten better under a load, just wondering what else I should think of replacing on the standard m boat.

[Hamin' X]

OK, let's simplify the search terms and at the same time, make it more specific. Top Right of the page, under the search box: Click on "Advanced search". Enter the search terms "forward hatch", no quotes. Scroll down and under Search options, click on Repairs and Modifications. Click the Search button. The topic that you want is #11.

I urge all members to play with the Advanced search. I think that with a bit of practice, you will find it much better than Google.

~Rich

[Russ]

I'm in the same place as Blue Angel. I can't seem to get the internal search to work for me either. I even did exactly what Hamin' X suggested and still didn't find the thread in question.
Google DID find it when I did "Macgregor hatch latch"
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... =8&t=11341

And I agree that Roger does use some junky stock hardware. The admiral can't get that forward hatch "latch" to work. It's a pull down and twist process that is counter intuitive in my opinion and cheaply made. No wonder it broke. I'm thinking of ordering one of those Perko quality latches. West Marine should pay Heath a commission for all the business this site send their way.


Although we really enjoy our Mac, there are some things that seem odd to me. The main hatch closes with big gap between the companionway cover where all kinds of things can get in. A small bird (or bat) could easily get through there. I put a piece of foam pipe insulation over that to help seal the gap.
And what's with that huge fiberglass companionway cover? Impossible to store, but I suppose it won't sink. Again, easy to replace with a couple of pieces of Lexan that can be stacked and stored under a seat cover.


--Russ

[Russ]

I found this one cheaper $16 bucks. It looks like plastic and not as nice as the Perko, but it's also not $45.


Roger spent $11 retail for this piece of crud.



--Russ

[ALX357]

.......... putting slides on both sides would be another option I guess, though it might be two things to adjust and thus harder?

Not ... Once the friction adjuster strut is adjusted, I never change it. The other side is not adjusted at all, just tighten to lock, loosen to move.

[ALX357]

...... The main hatch closes with big gap between the companionway cover where all kinds of things can get in. A small bird (or bat) could easily get through there. I put a piece of foam pipe insulation over that to help seal the gap.
--Russ

This neoprene sheet is folded double, and looped over a handle inside the slider hatch edge .... then trimmed to make it cover the larger holes at the side of the closed hatch, and mostly seal the long gap between the hatchboard and the slider cover.





Neoprene sheet, like used in roofing, or tile shower under pan, flexible but tough. After any shower tile installation, there is some of this stuff left over for trash....

This hatch baffle mod, or whatever you want to call it, has been in place for about three years now, no appreciable wear or problems. It seals the gaps pretty well, and hardly ever needs any attention, just seals up against the hatchbord and those large holes pretty much keeping out wasps etc. when closed. I have three solar fan vents in the boat, and two additonal passive ones, which provide enough ventilation to afford closing this area of the hatch gaps.

The handle you might notice on the inside of the hatch-board is lined up to share the holes for mounting the outside handle, which has two threaded bolts .... The inside handle is slid over those bolts sticking in from the outside, and then held by nyloc nuts, sandwiching the board between the two handles, inside and outside. This makes the hatch board easier to move from either side, and place in this position, and also in the alternate use as a bulkhead in the cockpit at the transom, under the back of the helm seat, to cut down on sound from the motor, keep the coclpit more closed at the stern, and to keep it out of the way when the cabin is opened.

[Russ]

That's a great solution for the gap in the hatch. I'm going to add that.


--Russ

[Kelly Hanson East]

Mein Fuehrer --- we cannot let the Communist have a hatch gap....

[ALX357]

[Kelly Hanson East]

too many powerpoint meetings for me yesterday...i was punchy

Dr strangelove