???Using a polisher first on coffin, then X

[Daves_knot_here]

Our new to us 98X will need a polish job soon. Ive been undecided on using the poliglow treatment or standard polishing compound and wax. I decide on the latter, so I go out and buy a polisher (Makita 9227C) set the variable speed limiter to about 2500 RPM and decide to practice (good advice Kevin) on our super oxidized fiberglass ski coffin (before I burn holes in the Macs gelcoat):



Trying to make this as easy as possible I buy the Meguiars One Step Compound (aggressive cleaners and polish). The initial results are incredible. Now Im still working on my technique here and the top looks great:





The sides however dont come out as well with areas of high gloss mixed with lower gloss. As Im finishing, I accidentally get a bunch of dirt on the coffin so I rinse it off with water:




Much to my surprise I find I also rinsed off much of the shine on the sides, (not so much the top) and now have a milky glow instead.


Is this normal? Should I have applied the wax before rinsing with water? Did the petroleum distillates in the compound react with the water? Should I not worry and just give it a second round tomorrow?



Also any general tips on using the polisher on curves and speed settings, etc would be appreciated. This is all new territory for me. Thanks and Ill post the results once I get the Mac done (more practice on the dinghy after the coffin).

Thanks, Dave.

[kmclemore]

Hi, Dave -

Looks like you got the surface hot and when you hit it with water it blushed. No big deal. Just buff it out.

However, I must say that I'm not a big fan of polish/wax combinations... they never seem to do a very good job, and your results look about as good as you can ever get with that stuff. It always ends up kinda hazy and blurred, not a really crisp and clear gloss.

My advice is to try and get some polishing compound made for use with a power buffer (see my other posts for brands, etc.) and use that first, then follow up with a buffed on glaze (using a *different* polishing bonnet) and then hand-wax it with a good quality product. You'll be really pleased with the results - even more so than you are with your present job.

One other thought... for a finish as dull and lifeless as you started with, I probably would have wet-sanded it first to get off the bulk of the oxidation.. use an 800 or 1000 grit with lots of water (with a few drops of liquid soap in it). This will give you a nice smooth base and prevent loading up of your bonnet from all that oxidized material.

In fact, that's probably why the sides didn't turn out as well as the top - your bonnet was loaded with 'gunk' from doing the top and it just didn't buff as well anymore - this is called 'loading up'. Loading up can be prevented somewhat by cleaning the bonnet every few minutes as you buff. You can either buy one of those fancy bonnet cleaning tools with the little wheels on the end (called a 'spur' - see here), or just do as I do and use an old bladed screwdriver that you don't mind ruining (the tip will get really worn out!). Run the buffer at speed and take the tip of the screwdriver and slowly run it through the bonnet from the center to the edge, pulling the 'fluff' back into the bonnet's fabric. You could also apply a bit of water to the bonnet and do it again if it's really filthy, but remember you're working with an electric tool and be really judicious.

Finally, always use eye protection and a dust mask when buffing... you won't believe the amount of crap that will get into your nose, eyes and lungs doing that job!

[Daves_knot_here]

Kevin,
I had the 3 pack kit in my hand at the store, compound, polish and wax. I put that back on the shelf and went with the one step (lazy). What is interesting is that even with the one step they say to finish it off with a coat of wax. The one step says it contains only "valuable oils".
By the time I get to the Mac, I'm pretty sure I'll be using the separate components. Is there a formulation difference between automotive and Boat/RV compounds/polish?

[kmclemore]

Is there a formulation difference between automotive and Boat/RV compounds/polish?

No, not really - they're pretty much the same stuff and in my experience they are interchangeable. In fact, body shops use the same stuff to buff out fiberglass cars, too - 'Glass is 'glass!

Do your self a favor.. put that stuff you have aside, go get a bottle of 'real' polishing compound and give that a shot... I guarantee you'll be more pleased, and it *will* buff differently that your current stuff, so you ought to practice using what you'll use on the Mac, rather than something else - and then make an ugly mistake on the Mac!