Connecting furler to the bow

Mistral · Post by **Mistral** » Sun May 11, 2008 2:37 pm

We have to connect our furler to the bow on the water as we have to go under 3 bridges to get to PPB. After raising the mast and than lying on the deck connecting the furler and trying to "stretch" it to get to the fitting is quite a struggle. Even more difficult if you drop the pin in the drink (happened on our mooring yesterday)

Can anybody offer any suggestions to make it easier?

Dirk

Phillip · Post by **Phillip** » Sun May 11, 2008 2:43 pm

over-wind the mast raising winch = pull mast forward a bit (bend at top sort-of).
That gives you more slack.
Sit on the bow with legs hanging over.
As soon as the pin is in, take tension of winch handle.
Don't drop the F@#$%^ pin in the water either.

Before you do this, better wait to see what the others do....this is just what occured to us....could be an absolute no...no..

Cheers
Phillip

pokerrick1 · Post by **pokerrick1** » Sun May 11, 2008 3:21 pm

What Phillip said - - - that's what I do - - - just a tad over center now will make a huge difference

Rick

Boblee · Post by **Boblee** » Sun May 11, 2008 3:57 pm

What he said, some have suggested a toggle pin but personally am not game to change the original even though it is a PTA.

Mistral · Post by **Mistral** » Sun May 11, 2008 5:07 pm

After the previous comments I am beginning to wonder if the hailyard might be too tight after the replacement of the extrusion and might have to loosen the turnbuckle a bit.
I did bring the mast forward (I hope, could not measure or see it) with the mast raising system, but still struggled.
Has anybody ever thought of using snap hooks or snap shackles?

pokerrick1 · Post by **pokerrick1** » Sun May 11, 2008 6:30 pm

You got it - - - your mast SHOULD come ever so slightly forward to make connecting the genoa easy. Br careful when thinking about using diffrent equipment ( like snap shackles), there is a LOT of pressure (torque) on that connection

Try to loosen the turnbuckle - - - again, just a tad.

Rick

hvolkhart · Post by **hvolkhart** » Sun May 11, 2008 6:43 pm

I’m using one of these puppies with a short lanyard attached to the boat.

By using the halyard, the force is on the top of the mast and you don’t need that much to “bend” the mast forward.

Boblee · Post by **Boblee** » Sun May 11, 2008 6:58 pm

Just check each time if you think it is too hard as yesterday found the D shackle on the lowers was sideways which left me winding and getting nowhere but nearly pulled the chainplate out of the deck.
Using one of your sail halyards you could pull the top of the mast over as Hvolkart said by bending from the top.
Thats looks a pretty safe alternative Hvolkart is it the same diameter as the original pin, am just a little nervous about that big stick coming down and tapping me or someone else on the head, although my solar panels would probably stop it

hvolkhart · Post by **hvolkhart** » Sun May 11, 2008 7:07 pm

I think it is just a hair bigger then the original hole. Bill from Boats for Sail has installed the pin and it work's flawless.

Mistral · Post by **Mistral** » Sun May 11, 2008 7:34 pm

Thanks for the responses. I will play with the turnbuckle a bit to see if it improves.
Additional question is what size shackle should be used? As I can see it there is a fair bit pull on the furler hailyard, particularly when both main and genoa are up. 8, 10 or 12mm pin diameters?

Kelly Hanson East · Post by **Kelly Hanson East** » Mon May 12, 2008 3:32 am

The forestay tang hole is 6mm...if you take a 1/4 inch drill and run it through, a 1/4 inch pin or shackle will fit.

Oskar 26M · Post by **Oskar 26M** » Mon May 12, 2008 4:06 am

I had my previous boat moored in the Swan R, but preferred to sail in the single handed in the ocean, often returning after dark. So I can sympathize with the pain of negotiating 3 bridges.

If you have to deal with bridges all the time, what you need is a quick release mechanism of some sort. On that boat I replaced the fiddly easy-to-drop-in-the-drink pin with a snap shackle permanently fixed to the forestay.

But I didn't have a weighty furler swinging around whenever I encountered the wake of some passing stink boat to contend with, nor a badly placed furler drum obscuring my vision. On the M I think some sort of tensioning device like a Highfield lever is needed so you can hook it up easily. It is on my 'to do' list but not done yet because I now have mast up storage next to my favorite bit of ocean

Try a search on "furler and lever". There are hundreds of posts on this issue and some really good solutions.

Loefflerh · Post by **Loefflerh** » Mon May 12, 2008 4:13 am

I drilled mine too and I am using a longer pin, about twice the standard lenght - makes it much easier to handle / hold the pin and insert it. And I put in the pin from below, makes it easier to install the ring. 150% improvement for me..
Hans

Don T · Post by **Don T** » Mon May 12, 2008 4:24 am

Hello,
I recommend the large head pin sold by BWY in Seattle. Makes managing the pin easier. I drilled the head and attached the pin & ringding to the tang with a lanyard. Now nothing can fall overboard (except me).

Mistral · Post by **Mistral** » Wed May 14, 2008 7:29 pm

I had a look at the hyfield levers and they would be ideal, but have no room to put it under the furler. I will probably try it first with a longer D shackle and put a lanyard on it. It would make a difference of about 25mm, from the existing D shackle, but I could probably make that up with the turnbuckle inside the drum. Another thought I had was using a carbine hook instead of the larger D shackle, i.e. put the carbine hook on the furler drum and a small D shackle on the bow. Any thoughts on that idea from anybody?

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Connecting furler to the bow

Connecting furler to the bow

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