Mast head light M not working

[Andy hipetrol]

I stand corrected I do know how to post a link

Andy

[tangentair]

Andy,
All you do is remove the current flimsy metal cover with its fuses and switches, unplug - it will have push-on connectors, the wires; size the hole if necessary; and plug the connectors on to the new panel.

You probably should take some tape and label the wires as you remove them from the switches, but basically it will have the input from the battery that goes to a supply - probably a red (or white) wire that runs along to all of the circuit breakers as it did to all the fuses; a black wire that comes from all of the switches if the switches are lighted and then individual red (or if a later model M, white) wires that have a push on connector (the supply and black return also have the same) that go to each switch. Plug and play - the hardest part is to resize the hole, it requires finding a tool to do it and drilling the new mounting screw holes.

[c130king]

Andy,

Haven't seen my boat in nearly a year but I am pretty sure that is what I have. Just not sure about the fuse part...I know I have never changed a fuse.

I have used all four positions (I used the fourth switch to control my 12v cabin outlet...cockpit outlet is directly wired as is the depth and fuel gauges and GPS power). I am considering upgrading to the 6-position switch. $23 seems reasonable to me.

Jim

[Andy hipetrol]

c130king,

When a fuse blows to check it you have to slip a small screwdriver down the left side right by the f in the word fuse and push a little to the right to pop out the fuse. If you push too hard in the dark with out your reading glasses and maybe one too many pops you break off the whole side and catch that holds the fuse in the panel, leaving you with three working fuses and one broken fuse and panel.

Then what started as a mast head light not working becomes a panel replacement or a mod upgrade, depending on your point of view. Then back to square one to check the Mast head light.

Andy

[c130king]

Copy all. Now I understand what you were talking about.

Thanks,
Jim

[Andy hipetrol]

I need to update the progress. I ended up ordering the electrical panel from the link in my previous post it arrived in 3 or 4 days. Ultimately my boat is still too new for me to contemplate cutting out a larger hole for nicer electrical panel or drilling holes yet.

I was able to replace panel by undoing four screws holding it in and taking one wire off at a time and connecting it to the new panel. It took one light beer and ten minutes.

I do need to correct how to replace a fuse though after spending time with the new panel. You need a very small screwdriver and you insert it on the left side by the fuse in a little slot. You must hold your hand on the fuse or it will pop out into the floor because it is spring loaded. I realize now how I broke the panel was by trying to slide the screwdriver in the front to remove the fuse and pushing to the left and broke the panel.

For the rest of the story after replacing panel I tried sand paper on the Perko switch at the base of the mast to no avail. Then I tried spreading the plug apart a little with needle nose pliers to see if the connection was bad and promptly broke one of the plugs off. So the saga of the non working mast head light continues. Must find switch and replace before lowering mast to check the bulb.

Aren't fixing things great!

Andy

[tangentair]

Andy
I am assuming you mean the through hull connector at the base of the mast and not a switch. WM$ has them as well as Defender and various other suppliers. Do not replace with the same type, get one that is all metal - on this page in the upper right are West Marine brand and just below it are perko, perko has the tacky rubber cover and WM$ has a screw on metal cap for the same price.
And you really should go with a 4 or 6 prong model - should you ever want to add more lights or devices to the mast OR just in case you break another connector you can just move the wires to a spare one.
I can understand your reluctance to cut your new boat, many of us had that same feeling.

[Andy hipetrol]

Tangentair,

Will the West Marine brand be an exact fit into the cabin top just like the Perko? I'm all for upgrading without any extra work or cutting etc. Will I just connect the wires to one set of prongs in the switch?

Andy

[tangentair]

Tangentair,

Will the West Marine brand be an exact fit into the cabin top just like the Perko? I'm all for upgrading without any extra work or cutting etc. Will I just connect the wires to one set of prongs in the switch?

Andy

Yeah - they are all pretty standard on the opening required, at the worst you might have to file away some fiberglass. It should have a rubber gasket to seal the opening, you can add some 3M 4200 just to be sure. Remember you connect to the same set of prongs in the socket as the plug. You do plan to replace both the plug and the socket it plugs into, right. If one is brittle and corroded the other will be in just as bad shape probably. Once everything is connected and works(!!!) you can cover the connections with liquid electric tape to seal out mosture. and along those lines, trim off the first 1/2 inch or so of the wire to get bright metal to make a good connection. and yes I am talking about putting liquid electric tape on the back side of the plug and socket not on the parts that go together. If you buy the 4 prong model, cover the little connectors with something before applying the liquid tape so they will be clean when you take the gunk off to use them. That is about it and it should take you about as long to do this as it took me to type it. this is not a big job
PS don't let me overwhelm you with details

[Boblee]

The plug Tang showed is exactly what we used (2pin), you will have to drill new holes fo the screws and seal the rubber gasket the original hole is bigger(ours) but the new plug covers easy.
The only down side to this plug is that it has a screw connector which if you forget when dropping mast or mast gets blown away the plug won't separate without damage.
These plugs allow for everything to be watertight.

[daydreamerbob]

as far as pulling the boat over - i am too lazy to check - but i think the book says using a halyard may break the mast and that a shroud should be used. i too am of the belief that any mast lowering is bad - broken spreaders - loose shrouds, dinged decks, tangled lines and ropes and stuff...

[Andy hipetrol]

For anyone who searches this thread in the future. I now have replaced the in deck plug and plug from mast to deck. I ended up looking at 4 prong plug and the Perko plug that was discussed previously. Sure enough the holes in the boat did not match up with the 4 pronged or 2 pronged WM plug so I went with Perko. I am just not up to drilling a extra hole in the boat yet. Perko plug is easily replaced you insert the old wires and tighten down with a small screwdriver.

After replacing the above masthead light still does not work. So the saga continues. Now I have figured out I have Hella Masthead light and either must find a bulb or a whole new Light. In the interest of time I will probably lower mast and replace the whole light. If I ever get light to work again somebody will be able to search this thread and just look at the time they will save. Glad to have this website back up and running.

One of my concerns for lowering the mast in the slip is I only have the one ring ding that holds the CDI furler on the front. If I loose that I will have be unable to sail or motor until I find that replacement.

There are disadvantages at times to being in a slip. So now off to hunt for ring ding and Hella light.

Andy

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

Perko $15.29 @ iboats

Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki