Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

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moctoc
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Sailboat: MacGregor 26M

Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by moctoc »

I have a 2003 26m that needs the daggerboards lines replaced. Any hints on the best way to do this?
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c130king
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by c130king »

Moctoc,

Have you tried a search for that topic yet?

I have not replaced my daggerboard lines but I did mod it with a 2:1 block. Adding 2:1 Block for Daggerboard Makes it much easier to raise.

I simply cut the dagger board line about 12" from the knot/washer/stopper and tied a block at that point. Then I got a new line (same diameter) and secured one end to a cleat in my cockpit just below the starboard winch and ran that line through the block and back to that same cleat.

A little more line in the cockpit but not that much...say about 5'.

Good luck on your line replacement.

Cheers,
Jim
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Québec 1
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by Québec 1 »

When I got my new dagger board for my 2003 26M I realized that my bumper lines were the perfect size and just used one of them. I think all you have to do is take the plastic plug out of the board and work the knot loose and re-knot the new line like the old one.
Q1

p.s. I think I fiddled with the knot for a while!!!
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MSN-Travelers
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by MSN-Travelers »

With the boat on the trailer and the mast down, I used a block of wood to push the dagger board up from below and supported it with that block of wood on the trailer crossmember. This exposed a plastic plug in the side of the dagger board near the top. Behind the plug is a stopper knot that I pulled out with a needle nose pliers. Untie the knot and replace the line. I used 5/16 line.

I will also install a 2:1 block this season and the line that leads aft will be 3/8 for a better grip.

Paul
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temall00
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by temall00 »

Does your 03M dagger board have a second line? I do not and apparently, newer M's do so you don't lose the board if the line breaks.


I removed my board for the winter because I wanted to add one but wasn't sure where to put it. I guess I'll just drill a hole in the top and side and add it then tie it to the deck plate.

I'm replacing my lines because the knots were VERY tight and I ended up cutting them to free them and I'll add a 2:1 block while I'm at it.

Enjoy!!

Tim
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by Hardcrab »

MSN-Travlers,
Thats a good tip about blocking up the board.
Simple.
Make sure to keep the new lines stop knots at the right places.
Line length is somewhat critical below the washer and knot.

temall00,
The factory just drills a hole in the "hasp" and ties a stop knot there for the safty line.
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parrothead
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by parrothead »

While you're replacing the daggerboard line(s), consider this simple mod which adds a knot below the hasp to limit the maximum lifting height - ensuring a flush bottom when motoring. http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=1094
moctoc
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by moctoc »

Thanks everyone for the good ideas. My board does in fact have two lines. One that everyone has been talking about and another that keeps hold of the board in case of a failure of the first one. There is a hole in the hasp (as mentioned in another reply) on one end and the other end of the line goes down into the board. This is where I am confused. Where does it connect? It sounds like there is some sort of weasher or nut attached inside the board that keeps it from coming back out the top hole. Any ideas on how to change that line?
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parrothead
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Re: Replace daggerboard lines on a 03 26M

Post by parrothead »

moctoc,
We have an '05 :macm:, but it sounds like the daggerboards are the same. There is a plastic plug/cap on the starboard side of the board, a few inches below the top and directly below the hole where the lifting line enters the top of the board. I have not replaced either line, yet, but they have knots on their ends inside the board that keep them in place. You should be able to get access to both knots through the same plug hole. I suspect that you'll have to remove the lifting line from the board first - to get it out of the way. Then you should be able to get to the knot in the safety line.

Doug
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