Replacement Trailer Guide Ons

[1st Sail]

I purchased my '06 26M used last Nov. Everything was in mint condition with the exception of the port trailer guide on. The port guide on was snapped off by the PO at the weld joint base of the verticle post. I could hassel with a reweld but am considering replacing with these http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... 009&r=view There are several launch areas with in 20min. of my house and therefor Is will be trailering. Most of the launch areas are open to the Miss. river cross current so I'm thinking of guide on aft and possibly some additional guide ons forward of the stern.

For all you trailer sailers your comments are appreciated.

[pokerrick1]

$79.99 seems like a LOT for what U R getting - - but then I think that about many items. Don't forget to drill a hole in the bottom so water drains out and put a couple of tennis balls on top of the posts.

Rick

[Québec 1]

I launch and retrieve off the St Lawrence in 1 to 5 knot currents. After my first experience of trying to retrieve my M onto the trailer 6 times before scrapping my way in dangerously I adapted a post from this board. I passed a line through a hole drilled in the top of the port black pvc guide and through the flexible grey electric cable tubing,through the v and around to the starboard black pvc guides and then topped the black pvc guides with blue plastic caps. The bow of my M just slides right into the v everytime now
You will find excellent resources in the search menu !

Ignore the busted daggerboard
Q1

p.s. Just 2 guide posts won't stop your bow from jamming between the front of the fender and the V in adverse conditions.
My whole kit cost less than 75 bucks.

[puggsy]

For SEAHORSE I have simply strung good cushioned [ with swimming pool spagetti] rope from the rear uprights straight to the "V". The bit it 'gives' in the rope allows the entry of the bow but prevents most of the sideways drift caused by wind or tide...and nothing ghets scratched. PUGGSY....



p.s. the pic was taken before the spag was added. there is a short bit on the rear upright.

[March]

Same here; followed the mod published by ALX earlier on, and it works very well: two ropes that go from each post to the front of the trailer, "dressed" in PVC ducts, the ones used for plumbing. The posts are also covered in ducts, finished with the proper caps and elbow joints. the whole project cost less than 50 bucks. The hardest part was threading the rope through the 25 foot tube--if you can call that 'hard'.The rope may be tensioned at the front of the trailer, as needed. If the tubing cracks and breaks, it can be easily and cheaply fixed. When trailering the boat, I loosely pull the tubes closer to the boat, by attaching them to the stays' plates on the side

The only disadvantage is, I sometimes forget to remove the attachments (that's how I broke the tubes the first time). Now it's part of the checklist.

This corral works quite well. It never scratches the boat and aligns the boat well, even in a cross current. It doesn't look half as bad either (especially when the boat's on the trailer)

[dsire]

Question for 1st Sail, did you get those guides from Overton's?
If so, how did they work out for you?
thx

[1st Sail]

Dsire,
The Overtons guide-ons worked great. Galvanized square tube, with PVC tube that slips over the top. They bolt to the trailer frame with an adjustable plate and two square bottom u-bolts. They are not as rigid as the OEM but center the boat very well. When installed the top of the tube is almost even with the cockpit combing. The lighted cap has red LED to the rear and amber LED to the front for running lights. If you are loading in the dark they make great highly visible markers when backing in.

I haven't installed the running lines (see puggsy above) from the guide-ons to the winch tower yet but I think it makes a lot of sense. I'm thinking about using some closed cell foam to build a set of wedges which pinch between the guide-ons and hull to center the stern. Most of the ramps I use on the Miss. have cross currents and I think the wedges would hold the stern on center until you pulled out.

The grand plan for single handing and loading is use the lines to center the bow whether you motor on or crank on. Once the bow is winched climb back aboard and place the wedges to center the stern on the trailer. Option 2 is another set of guide-on mid ship at maximum beam.

Next up is the disgusting Mac Bump fix!

Hope this helps.

[dsire]

Dsire,
The Overtons guide-ons worked great. Galvanized square tube, with PVC tube that slips over the top. They bolt to the trailer frame with an adjustable plate and two square bottom u-bolts. They are not as rigid as the OEM but center the boat very well. When installed the top of the tube is almost even with the cockpit combing. The lighted cap has red LED to the rear and amber LED to the front for running lights. If you are loading in the dark they make great highly visible markers when backing in.

I haven't installed the running lines (see puggsy above) from the guide-ons to the winch tower yet but I think it makes a lot of sense. I'm thinking about using some closed cell foam to build a set of wedges which pinch between the guide-ons and hull to center the stern. Most of the ramps I use on the Miss. have cross currents and I think the wedges would hold the stern on center until you pulled out.

The grand plan for single handing and loading is use the lines to center the bow whether you motor on or crank on. Once the bow is winched climb back aboard and place the wedges to center the stern on the trailer. Option 2 is another set of guide-on mid ship at maximum beam.

Next up is the disgusting Mac Bump fix!

Hope this helps.

Perfect.. thank you!

[Berber Boy]

I have a brand new so was willing to spend a little bit more to replace the guideons especially as I often face cross wind or tidal streams while retrieving my boat. Had it done in Stainless steel and also use Pugsy's approach with a 12mm soft rope and swimming spaghetti type tubes. It works very well. My trailer is aluminium so kept the SS guides insulated by a thick coating of white silastic between all joints.

[RocketsCrew]

Nice work, looks good in stainless. I did something similar to my trailer last year due to the same reasons. If you live in a cold climate, make sure you drill a hole at the bottom of each vertical tube to prevent ice jacking. This spring. after a cold snap I found my rollers on the ground as the tubes had filled with water and when it froze it popped them off, , Cheers, Ian

[J.Teixeira]

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1175

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1176

Ariane

[Berber Boy]

Good Tip Ian. My weather is cold but do not get the heavy ice I was used to when I lived in the USA. But I would not have thought of the rollers. My main beedf with the rollers is that the rattle when on the road. Any ideas?

David