autopilot question

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Rick Westlake
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Rick Westlake »

I'm pleased to say that I've managed to install my own OttoPilot on Bossa Nova:

Image
Of course, I keep it inflated with a Rule ID20 air pump, the same as I use with my little dinghy ...

(Come to think of it, this installation is a little dinghy!) :P

All seriousness aside, I'm taking my new SPX-5 wheel pilot over to the marina today, and I'm going to start the installation process ... beginning with pulling new 14-gauge cable to the companionway switch panel, and replacing that with a 6-circuit panel to add a circuit for the pilot.
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KayakDan
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Re: autopilot question

Post by KayakDan »

Glad you got if fixed...so now we'll see you in CH...instead of Casco Bay. That was last week. :wink:
Kelly Hanson East
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Kelly Hanson East »

Im headed to CH Aug 19 Dan, if you guys are game - Ill be there all week.
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Wind Chime
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Wind Chime »

NEW QUESTION IN OLD THREAD.

Auto Pilot Install

OK, so I finally broke down and bought a Raymarine S1 Wheel pilot with the Rudder Sensor for our 2000 :macx: . And after following everyone's install questions for about 2 years now, I thought that when It was ready for my install, I would know exactly what I wanted to do. Not the case.

Help!

Biggest Questions:

1. Rudder Sensor Install.

- What/where/how is the best way to install the Rudder Senor on a 2000X.
- I've only managed to find two photos on this site of how they have been installed. I've read the manual several times, and the available space and rudder bracket configuration on the stern deck of the X just doesn't seem to allow the "perfect" install.
- I noticed one person made and ss bracket, so that the senor hangs over the back of the transom (which matches correct to the install guide) but I would prefer not to have to get an item custom made to install this.
- The manual says the senor arm and rudder bracket need to be parallel, and the pivot points of the bracket and sensor need to be parallel. How much can I cheat on this, and still not lose performance?

2. Wheel Pedestal Bracket.

- Does it really matter where the Pedestal bracket goes?
- The perfect center position is where my RPM gauge is (of course), so can I just move the bracket to the left or right of this gauge?
- Does it matter where the motor is?
- Can I just cut a new hole in the back of the plastic grey wheel, so I get the exact position of the motor where I want it, instead of moving the bracket?

Thanks!!!
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Highlander
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Highlander »

I had the same problem so I lowed the RPM gauge & made this brkt out of Alum flat bar & cut the base off the pin & welded it onto the brkt and cut a hole in the brkt and the A/P motor goes inside the pedestal where the rpm gauge went ! :)
Image

J
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Rick Westlake
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Rick Westlake »

I didn't know anyone sold the S-1 wheel pilot any more. Last year I got a Raymarine SPX-5 pilot, and of course I retired Otto (well, at least that Photoshopped photo with Otto handling my sheets). The X-5 doesn't have a rudder sensor, so I can't help you with that one.

I didn't use the wheel-pedestal bracket on my wheel-drive, because I found I could do better by cutting a hole in the pedestal for the bracket. I put it well off-center to port, so it wouldn't have a chance to interfere with my throttle controls on the starboard side of the pedestal. It works very well for me there.

When I installed my wheel-drive, I did some measuring and determined the center of the motor unit is 6 inches exactly from the center of the wheel. So I made a "compass-board" of foam-core board, with a cutout matching the diameter of the wheel bezel (5" diameter on Bossa Nova) centered just 6 inches from a small hole that represents the center of the drive-motor. (Which is just about 1.8" in diameter.) I "swung an arc" on the pedestal, marked a point about 2" from the port side of the pedestal, and used a hole-saw to cut a 2" hole for the motor. It was a perfect fit - well, I did use 1/8" closed-cell foam weatherstripping tape to close the gap, and a couple of nylon fender-washers on small bolts to lock the drive motor in place. But PLEASE double-check the dimensions I've given you before you try this at home.

I can send you a few photos if they'd help. Unfortunately, I didn't take photos with the wheel off, but they do manage to show how I used those nylon fender-washers to lock the motor in place - and another shows the position of the clutch lever, right by my "port" knee.
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Wind Chime
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Wind Chime »

Thanks Highlander and Rick!
Installing the motor unit into the pedestal (with or without the bracket) might just be an option for me.

Rick, yes please send me some photos, that would help.

ps
The local dealer had 3 units they were selling below cost. From what I could find out the biggest difference between the S1 and the SPX-5 is the rudder sensor on the 5 is replaced by the smart learn chip, although the Raymarine rep apparently says you can hook one up to the 5 and get improved performance if needed.

The S1 is going to beat my 2nd hand sport-pilot (that was worth the all the $100 bucks a paid for it) as it left the steering with way too much play in the wheel for me. Especially since I replaced the rack and pinion steering and cable last year which allows me to turn the wheel with one finger now.

Any other help would be much appreciated folks!
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Rick Westlake
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Rick Westlake »

I wish I'd taken photos of the foam-board template I made, and of the pedestal with the hole drilled before I re-installed the wheel and the motor. However, it's easy for you to construct one, if you have a drawing compass: draw a line with cross-ticks 6.00 inches apart; measure the diameter of your wheel bezel, at the base; draw a circle of that diameter on one cross-tick, and cut that circle out; make a small hole, just big enough for whatever marker you plan to use, at the other cross-tick. Fit the bezel hole over the wheel-bezel, and any mark you make through the other hole will be 6.00" from the center of the wheel.

Image
This shows the pedestal and wheel-drive from the port side and from the helmsman's seat. You can see the helm-clutch lever below the wheel. I found this was convenient and didn't get in the way when I step around the helm; more important, it doesn't interfere with the throttle quadrant on the starboard side of the pedestal. (Avoiding that interference is the reason I put the motor near the port side of the pedestal.)

I also had to move the throttle quadrant, so that it was out of the way of the drive-ring; depending on your throttle position, you may need to do the same.

Image
This is a closer view of the back of the wheel-drive motor. You can see the back of the wheel-drive ring, and the little square-shouldered knob to the right of the motor is the clutch setting.

Image
This is a photo of the way I secured the motor. As you can see, I left a bit less than an inch between the edge of the pedestal and the edge of the hole. I used two through-bolts (you can see the nylock nuts) with wide, thick nylon fender-washers, set "a little too close" to the motor - this let me trim the washers just a little, and get a tight fit on either side of the motor. I put 1/8" foam weatherstripping tape around the motor before I installed it. (The black object below the motor is my tachometer; that was installed by the dealer who first sold Bossa Nova to her previous owner.)

I don't know where you're planning to install the control head (display and pushbuttons); mine is on the port-side seat back, close at hand for me, in a place where guests aren't likely to be sitting. You do need the controls in easy reach. I suppose you could put it on top of the pedestal, if you don't have other stuff there to interfere (as I do - the white bag is my compass, and the black ball behind it is the RAM mount for my GPS/chartplotter). Or you could put it on the port side of the pedestal, but you'd have to shift over to port to see the display.

Hope this helps!
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2BonC
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Re: autopilot question

Post by 2BonC »

Rick,
thank You, Your pictures make it clear, forget my mail :) .
Rainer
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Rick Westlake
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Rick Westlake »

The April 2010 SAIL Magazine just arrived in my mailbox.

It has a full, detailed article on installing a Raymarine wheel pilot. They cover the non- :macx: - specific points very well.

Recommended reading before you start installing.
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Wind Chime
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Wind Chime »

Wow, perfect timing!
Nothing in my mailbox today but maybe tomorrow.

Did you find that there is a lot of stress being put on the motor cylinder with out a bracket mounted?

Tks!
Darry
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bubba
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Re: autopilot question

Post by bubba »

Is there any type of Auto-pilot that connects with a chart plotter for course corrections we could use on a Mac M ?
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c130king
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Re: autopilot question

Post by c130king »

The Raymarine Wheel Pilot will do that with no problems. My S1 works very well hooked to my Garmin Chartplotter. But the S1 has been replaced by the SPX-5...very similar...no rudder sensor. But more expensive I think.

Cheers,
Jim
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Matt19020
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Re: autopilot question

Post by Matt19020 »

This month (April2010) of SAIL Magazine has a general step-by-step guide for installing a wheel pilot on a 34'
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