Help - Cracked hull!!

[Corsair II]

Thanks for the trailer pics. As I always say, a picture is worth a thousand words - and one cracked hull.

[Corsair II]

In looking at the pic. of your boat from the side, my bunk only goes from your 2nd to your 3rd support, with no support where you have your 1st and 4th support. While the 1st support doesn't look as critical, the lack of a 4th support by the stern looks bad. Thanks again. Where can I go to have my trailer set up with bunks like yours? Are there specifications that are used to set them at the proper locations and angles?

[Sumner]

The above picture was when I was raising the bunks in Canada and there are a couple more here....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... -koot.html

I added a bow roller at the front and I'm extending the stock trailers side rails back like Doug's right now and adding a back bunk also like he has on his new trailer.

We really load our boat down on the trailer (2 outboards on the stern) and lots of other stuff. That is why I'm adding the back bunk. If you load your boat normally I wouldn't worry about it much as hundreds (thousands??) of Macs are on trailers like that. If your trailer is that long add it.

I'm with Doug and would ditch the bunks you have now and put in ones like on the original trailer. If I was doing that I'd leave the boat on the ones you have now and add the new ones and then cut the others off. You might have to cut some of them out to add the new ones. If that was the case I'd weld in some temporary pieces and cut the long ones out in the areas I needed to put the others in. Doing this I could put the new ones in to match the bottom angle while the boat was on the trailer. I'd probably tack everything in place and then support the boat and drop the trailer down (remove the wheels/tires) so that when I did the final welding I was keeping weld splatter off of the gel coat. At least be aware that can happen and put a tin shield between the boat and where you are welding to protect the gel coat.

I'm on the road right now, but will be home soon and I could give you measurements from say the bow back to where the front bunk was on a stock trailer and then from there back to the other (back) bunk if that would help.

Work through a few of these issues and you will soon be on the water .

c ya,

Sum

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[Doug91mac26s]

On the factory trailer the transom hangs a long way off the trailer. That's one thing among many things I didn't like about the factory trailer. If you want to pay someone to modify the trailer, I would think any reputable trailer shop can do the job, once you supply them with measurements. I modified my trailer myself.

I thought I saved a diagram someone submitted with all the measurements of the factory trailer, I looked everywhere but can't find it.

Sum, do you happen to have that diagram? I don't know if you've seen it, but it looks like a pencil drawing. If we could find that I think it would really help out here.

[Catigale]

Do you tie the boat down onto that trailer? If it is bouncing up and down, that might explain the cracks.

[Sumner]

..........Sum, do you happen to have that diagram? I don't know if you've seen it, but it looks like a pencil drawing. If we could find that I think it would really help out here.

Is this the one???????????



I didn't have a direct link to it, but just googled it and found it here.....

http://www.mv.com/ipusers/whale/l1trailer.shtml

I'll be adding it to my links page. I did have a link to the Whale thought,

Sum

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[Doug91mac26s]

That's it Sum! Thank you very much, I couldn't find it. I knew you'd have it!

Corsair, if you look at that diagram, measurement "A" is what you need for starters. The two factory trailer v-bunks are mounted directly on top of those steel crossmembers. So, the spacing is 88". Yours can be off a little, just try to get them as close to that as possible. Someone on this board should be able to give you the measurement from the transom of the boat to the rear v-bunk. Then all you need to worry about is the height.

When I did my trailer I took some wood and made sort of a template of the shape of the hull where the v-bunks would be. I just used something like 1x6's, wood fence slats would work good. Hold them up under the hull making the V shape, overlapping at the bottom, then screw them together. Now you have your angle template to make the perfect v-bunks.

[Corsair II]

Do you tie the boat down onto that trailer? If it is bouncing up and down, that might explain the cracks.

Yes. I bought it in NC, trailered it to the OBX, got some lessons, and then snugged it down again for the trip back to Ind. The guy who gave me the lessons is an experienced guy who helped me get somethings on the boat in order and helped tie it down. When I got back home, I trailered it to a local marine shop to check on parts, brought it back home, left the straps on and covered it for the winter. The straps have not been removed since bringing it back home last fall. I'll post some pics next week when I pick up the boat after getting an estimate.

Thanks for everyone's help.

[Doug91mac26s]

With regard to the straps. I'd recommend you remove them in between road trips, or at least loosen them.

[JoeVacs]

Corsair,
Here's a whole wealth of info on hull repair. as a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth several thousand.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... %7ENewUser

If you're not into fixing it yourself, bring down to NC. I'll fix it for ya. I enjoy that almost as much as sailing. You buy the materials, i'll take care of the labor.

[Sumner]

Corsair,
Here's a whole wealth of info on hull repair. as a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth several thousand.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... %7ENewUser

If you're not into fixing it yourself, bring down to NC. I'll fix it for ya. I enjoy that almost as much as sailing. You buy the materials, i'll take care of the labor.

Joe thanks for the link and Corsair you would be in good hands with Joe. I'd let him fix my boat in a heart beat. Don't know if you have seen his, but talk about nice.....



http://www.flickr.com/photos/25826781@N ... 736968896/

....you can't get any nicer,

Sum

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[Corsair II]

Corsair,

If you're not into fixing it yourself, bring down to NC. I'll fix it for ya. I enjoy that almost as much as sailing. You buy the materials, i'll take care of the labor.

Thanks for the extremely generous offer; I might take you up on it. I would like, however, to post some pics for you to take a look at first. The fiberglass repair on the cracks seems to be only 1/3 of the problem. The bunks seem to be positioned wrong (the rear of both is pushing up into the hull and indenting it - pic is coming), there seems to be too much flex in the hull just below the cracked area indicating possible structural compromise (pic is coming), and then the cracked area on both sides (at the water line). I'm hoping to be able to post some pics by the weekend. Thanks again.

[JoeVacs]

A lot of the "oil can" indentions will come out after the trailer is redesigned not to push on those spots. My boat was full of rain water that had sat in it for years. It had deep indentions where it had sat on the trailer with all that extra weight.
After pulling it apart and repairing everything the hull shape was just like new, all by itself.

[Sumner]

..... The bunks seem to be positioned wrong (the rear of both is pushing up into the hull and indenting it - pic is coming), there seems to be too much flex in the hull just below the cracked area indicating possible structural compromise (pic is coming), and then the cracked area on both sides (at the water line). I'm hoping to be able to post some pics by the weekend. Thanks again.

If you don't have a welder or don't want to tackle that start looking for a welding shop. That should be a relatively cheap fix to have done and like Joe said once that is done (do it first) I'll bet the boat looks much better,

Sum

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[Corsair II]

What would be your recommended sequence of repairs?

1 - Have the trailer bunks adjusted by a welder before repairing the boat and while the boat is still on it? If so, it seems that this would only improve the horizontal bunk set up instead of switching to the v-bunk design as mentioned earlier.

2 - Have the boat removed for the repair and while off the trailer, have the trailer modified? I'm not sure if the current set up will not create even more damage to the hull on the trailer and left 'as is' for awhile longer. And if being done separately, how will the trailer place know where to position the bunks? Will I need to let them get measurements with the boat on the trailer before off-loading it or will they obtain specs from somewhere and set it up without needing to see the boat (sounds scarey).

I will need to have someone else do the trailer mod for me, so the boat and trailer will be worked on, more than likely, in separate locations.