Trailer tires for 26X?

[dlandersson]

In the spirit of being proactive, I'm planning on replacing my trailer tires this spring/summer.

I plan to use trailer tires, and swap them out every 3 years. Suggestions are welcome.

[Tomfoolery]

I bought new tires mounted on galvanized wheels from etrailer. 14", Load Range C (1760 lb rating), but I have two axles. I personally think they're a bit light for a single axle trailer that's bound to be over 4000 lb when the boat is outfitted to actually sail.

http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheel ... 3S450.html

You can get a mounted 15" tire/wheel combo with 2150 lb load rating, but I don't know if the larger wheel will fit under the fender. It has the same 5 on 4-1/2" stud pattern as the OEM axle.

http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheel ... 32468.html

Edit: And while we're on the subject, I personally think the 3500 lb axle and bearings are a bit light, too, but it would take a bit more money to upgrade that, with brakes.

[Dry Tortugas 2013]

In the spirit of being proactive, I'm planning on replacing my trailer tires this spring/summer.

I plan to use trailer tires, and swap them out every 3 years. Suggestions are welcome.

tire easy web site for tires

[raycarlson]

Why would you swap out tires every three years,it might take ten to wear them down,

[dlandersson]

As you know, "everything on the internet is true." I understand that tread notwithstanding ( and bias is better for trailers) tire replacement is best around 3-4 years - given the load they support 6 months of the year. It's not tread wear but load.

Why would you swap out tires every three years,it might take ten to wear them down,

[Seapup]

As you know, "everything on the internet is true." I understand that tread notwithstanding ( and bias is better for trailers)

Bias is cheaper....but better???

Kumho makes the 857 trailer tire which fit the factory 14" rim, rated at 2271 lbs and 65psi.

[dlandersson]

I was under the impression that Bias (with superior wall strength) might be better than radial.

The benefits of radial tires may not be fully realized enough to justify the additional cost if the trailer is used infrequently and for short distances. For long distance and frequent use, factors like cornering, puncture potential, expected life and heat buildup will need to be evaluated as they apply to the specific intended use of the trailer.

Read more: Radial Vs. Bias Trailer Tire | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_5329987_radia ... z2LIkqGFby

As you know, "everything on the internet is true." I understand that tread notwithstanding ( and bias is better for trailers)

Bias is cheaper....but better???

Kumho makes the 857 trailer tire which fit the factory 14" rim, rated at 2271 lbs and 65psi.

[Johnacuda]

If load is the concern wehen you are storing the boat on the trailer, why not put it up on blocks? I have also noticed that the larger tires run much cooler over long distances.

[dlandersson]

No problem, I'll drive right over and park my in your driveway. Until then, my marina does not appear to put any boats on blocks.

If load is the concern wehen you are storing the boat on the trailer, why not put it up on blocks? I have also noticed that the larger tires run much cooler over long distances.

[Johnacuda]

lol, Sorry, that's what I get for making an assumption.I've got the space. We just may need to tag s so you pick the right one up in the spring.

[seahouse]

Yeah - larger tires also help the bearings, as well as the tire, run cooler too. Larger tires = lower bearing RPM for the same rig speed = cooler bearing = less bearing wear = longer and more reliable bearing life = a happy and safe life! But you don't always have the option of a larger tire available.

Unless you are travelling long distances in a short time period, uniform tread wear should not be considered to be a reliable indicator of when a trailer tire should be replaced. A visual inspection, sidewall and inter-tread cracking, and the date stamp (~ age) on the tire are more reliable yardsticks. I do not happen to trailer long distances, and most of the trailer tires I have replaced over the years have had way more than the minimum tread depth left on them. I believe that's the norm.

If you plan on replacing every 3 years, that's a very good safe, conservative strategy to follow. Then, if you have kept the tire pressure within weight range, have not run up over any curbs or road hazards, or run at extended high speeds, and find that there are no cracks or visible damage at the end of the three years, then you could probably safely go another year and consider it a bonus!

If they aren't in too bad shape, keep one of the old ones for a spare, if you need. Or give them to someone in the marina with ratty ones that trailers their boat 600 feet every year.

When you do buy new tires, it's a good idea to check, or ask the technician, if he knows how, to check, the manufactured date code on the sidewall. Some tire shops might not have good stock turnover (or good stock management), so I let them sell the older tires to someone else.

I thought I would tell you this so that you're not that someone else!

-Brian.

[dlandersson]

Muchos gracias. My travels about 3-4 miles 2x a year. The rest of the time the trailer sits.

Yeah - larger tires also help the bearings, as well as the tire, run cooler too. Larger tires = lower bearing RPM for the same rig speed = cooler bearing = less bearing wear = longer and more reliable bearing life = a happy and safe life! But you don't always have the option of a larger tire available.

Unless you are travelling long distances in a short time period, uniform tread wear should not be considered to be a reliable indicator of when a trailer tire should be replaced. A visual inspection, sidewall and inter-tread cracking, and the date stamp (~ age) on the tire are more reliable yardsticks. I do not happen to trailer long distances, and most of the trailer tires I have replaced over the years have had way more than the minimum tread depth left on them. I believe that's the norm.

If you plan on replacing every 3 years, that's a very good safe, conservative strategy to follow. Then, if you have kept the tire pressure within weight range, have not run up over any curbs or road hazards, or run at extended high speeds, and find that there are no cracks or visible damage at the end of the three years, then you could probably safely go another year and consider it a bonus!

If they aren't in too bad shape, keep one of the old ones for a spare, if you need. Or give them to someone in the marina with ratty ones that trailers their boat 600 feet every year.

When you do buy new tires, it's a good idea to check, or ask the technician, if he knows how, to check, the manufactured date code on the sidewall. Some tire shops might not have good stock turnover (or good stock management), so I let them sell the older tires to someone else.

I thought I would tell you this so that you're not that someone else!

-Brian.

[Tomfoolery]

Muchos gracias. My travels about 3-4 miles 2x a year. The rest of the time the trailer sits.

In light of this new information, let me revise my previous suggestion. For a few miles each way twice a year, presumably at lower speeds, I wouldn't hesitate to use the ST205/75D14 tires. I'd also keep them longer.

When I got my boat on its OEM steel trailer, it still had the original tires on one axle (11 or 12 years old when I got them, from the date code), plus a set of 'new' tires, which were 3 years younger. I towed it home that way. Then I junked them and put new ones on all around, with new galvanized wheels, from the link above. In your case, new tires should last many years, and the risk of an accident with a flat or blowout is minimal when towing short distances at low speeds. An annoyance, perhaps (carry a spare and a jack), but not dangerous.

[dlandersson]

You are so smart - you da man!!!

Muchos gracias. My travels about 3-4 miles 2x a year. The rest of the time the trailer sits.

In light of this new information, let me revise my previous suggestion. For a few miles each way twice a year, presumably at lower speeds, I wouldn't hesitate to use the ST205/75D14 tires. I'd also keep them longer.

When I got my boat on its OEM steel trailer, it still had the original tires on one axle (11 or 12 years old when I got them, from the date code), plus a set of 'new' tires, which were 3 years younger. I towed it home that way. Then I junked them and put new ones on all around, with new galvanized wheels, from the link above. In your case, new tires should last many years, and the risk of an accident with a flat or blowout is minimal when towing short distances at low speeds. An annoyance, perhaps (carry a spare and a jack), but not dangerous.

[Tomfoolery]

You are so smart - you da man!!!

Muchos gracias. My travels about 3-4 miles 2x a year. The rest of the time the trailer sits.

In light of this new information, let me revise my previous suggestion. For a few miles each way twice a year, presumably at lower speeds, I wouldn't hesitate to use the ST205/75D14 tires. I'd also keep them longer.

When I got my boat on its OEM steel trailer, it still had the original tires on one axle (11 or 12 years old when I got them, from the date code), plus a set of 'new' tires, which were 3 years younger. I towed it home that way. Then I junked them and put new ones on all around, with new galvanized wheels, from the link above. In your case, new tires should last many years, and the risk of an accident with a flat or blowout is minimal when towing short distances at low speeds. An annoyance, perhaps (carry a spare and a jack), but not dangerous.

I don't know about smart. It's just middle of the road between the crap we used to do many moons ago when I drove semi-trailers, mostly in the dirt/demolition and equipment hauling biz (for short distances, air up that old office trailer so the rims are off the ground, hook up, and go (no lights) - if it won't go, get a bigger tractor ), and what the magazines recommend ('we recommend you dismantle and inspect your Schrader valves twice a year, and rebuild if necessary, using a calibrated valve spring tester . . . ' ). I won't do things like the first case any more, nor would I recommend that anyone else do it unless it's just around the same dirt storage lot, but I try not to get too crazy about it either unless it's for high speed and/or over the road travel, where accidents can be devastating and even flats can be tough. Like the guys here who travel the Australian outback. It's all about the context. Or so it seems to me.