Trailer Parts

[Terry]

I notice MacGregor likes to change trailer suppliers from time to time. I have a Titan and had to get new brake pads (disc). Fortunately Lordco had something that fit but they had never seen the likes of a caliper like on the Titan trailer, it also has a brass bleed nipple. So where do you other owners get parts you need, I may have to replace my starboard caliper if the nipple breaks when I try to loosen it to bleed my brakes. The port side loosened OK but the starboard is stubborn so I srayed lubricant on it and will wait for the rains to stop before I finnish the brake job. There was salt water in the lines and one of the pads was well worn so I changed everything. I looked up Titan on the internet and found they are into huge industrial/commercial trailers, didn't see any boat trailer products on their site. This is my first attempt to do a brake job but I am stuck in my driveway without a mechanic and I already know the pads are back on too tight, need loosening. I may have to find a mobile mechanic at this rate. I got it all back together ok, it's just very tight and I don't know how to bleed the lines without assistance, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just stuck in my driveway with no other choice but to tackle the job. Any advice would be an answer to a prayer right now.
It's a 2003 trailer and already needs servicing, can you believe it.!

[Moe]

I've found nothing better than PB Blaster for loosening frozen fasteners. I'd soak the nipple in that before trying it.

--
Moe

[Jeff S]

You need to be able to loosen the bleed screw- so try what Moe said first to get it loose.

To bleed the brakes (after you have the screw loosened)- you have to attach a small tube to the bleed screw (not sure the size on yours)- this is available at most hardware stores. This tube should then go to a small receptacle (jar/cup) that has a small amount of brake fluid in it. I recommned the tubing to be clear so you can see the air bubbles coming out.

Start with the side closest down the line to the coupler (not sure on your M trailer- on my X it would be the starboard side). There should be a way on the coupler to actuate the brakes- not sure on yours- it will probably involve applying leverage with something to actuate the system. Someone else will have to actuate that. With you at the bleed screw- loosen (open) the bleed screw and tell the other person to actuate the brakes and hold them. Once the flow stops coming out, tighten the bleed screw back up- then tell the other person to release the pressure on the actuator. Keep doing this until no bubbles come out of both sides. When this is complete the brakes are bled.

Others here will have to weigh in with the specifics for the M trailer. I redid mine with the Tie Down disc brakes- it was pretty easy. Champion offers Tie Down calipers for $69 if your caliper needs to be replaced.

I am not sure if this helps or answers your question, hopefully it does.

Jeff S

[Jeff S]

It's a 2003 trailer and already needs servicing, can you believe it.!

Unfortunately, Yes.

Jeff S

[Greg]

To loosen a bleeder valve for the first time, use the proper size six point box wrench and gently tap the other end of the wrench the proper direction with a hammer instead of using hand pressure. I wouldn't use penetrating oil on a bleeder valve.

I use a hand operated vacuum pump to bleed the system instead of pump/pressure bleeding. Assign someone to keep the reservoir full, attach clear plastic tubing from the bleed screw to an in line reservoir then clear tubing to the vac pump. squeeze the pump a couple times and verify the setup holds a slight vacuum, crack the bleeder and keep pumping to pull fluid until it runs clear in the tube then tighten the bleeder valve. Make sure to tell your helper when you loosen the bleeder because the fluid level can drop fast. This method is fast, clean and there is no chance of air entering the system.

Hope this helps
Greg

Afterthought: This is the best method to use for solo bleeding a system but be careful - the fluid level in the reservoir drops fast when you open the bleeder and you cannot let it empty completely. That's why I suggested using a helper to monitor the level.

[Greg]

Terry,

I just reread your post and maybe I'm missing something, but if you're only changing the pads you shouldn't have to open the hydraulic system and bleeding the brakes won't loosen them up.
There will be a bit of normal drag but if your pads were worn unevenly the caliper isn't free to move on its mount. I'm not familiar with your trailer in particular, but the caliper slides on a pin or sleeve and has a lubricated (thick silicone type lubricant) o-ring between the pin/sleeve and the housing. When the piston moves out, the caliper is forced in the opposite direction which allows both shoes to evenly squeeze the rotor. If the caliper cannot slide freely, one shoe will wear more than the other. You should check the mount thoroughly - remove the pads - reinstall the caliper and you should be able to slide it back and forth on its mount.

If the piston was stuck, both pads would be worn down, the wheels would get very hot and likely the rotors would show signs of overheating.

It is possible that you could have a stuck piston and caliper mount frozen, but most likely you pressed the piston back in the caliper to install the pads.

For preventive maintenance, the fluid should be changed every two years to prevent moisture which results in rust in the system. Otherwise, the system shouldn't have to be opened.

Hope this helps
Greg

[Greg]

Terry,

Sorry- one more-
If you already removed the caliper and that's why you need to bleed the system, take it to a shop and they should be able to get the bleeder out- there are a few tricks they can try- sometimes using proper size easy out and tapping the end of the easy out while turning it will loosen it- worst case it can be heated a little in the right place and the bleeder will come out and not damage the caliper. If you do that though, replace the bleeder if you can find one.

Any time a brake system is opened, never let the fluid completely drain out of the system or the master cylinder will most likely be damaged. Install something to prevent brake fluid from leaking out of the hose.

Greg

[Terry]

Well, I finally got the little sucker out. My mechanical neighbor gave me a hand, he heated the area of the caliper around the bleed nipple with a propane torch and that worked to help break it free. We cleaned each nipple and put them back in with a bit of anti-seize so that it would not happen again. Only problem is even after squeezing the piston fully back the starboard caliper with the new brake shoes is very tight. (port side is snug too but not as bad) I had to tap it into place with a hammer before I could get the bolts back through and tighten it up, now it takes a fair bit of strenght to turn the wheel even with the tire mounted. I'm hoping that a drive around the block a few times using the surge brakes will adjust it for me, but right now it is very tight and will likely heat up on a longer run. I cleaned the rotars as best I could with some sandpaper. I initially unhooked the brake lines to make it easier to put the pads in and old ones out, also there was water in the reservoir so I cleaned it out with a rag and put new fluid in. I've got both wheels bolted back on now and plan to take it off the jack stands and blocks tonight. Perhaps on the weekend I can try towing it around the neighborhood to see if the brakes will adjust themselves, sure hope they don't smoke up. I started out this job as a check on the bearings to see if there was any salt rust or corrosion before the start of a new season. Turned out bearings were fine but brakes were almost down so I thought I had best change the pads. It was a learning experience that will make it easier for me next time.
It was that posting of a guy with his big 29' J-boat turned over on the freeway and totalled truck that made me start this, I didn't want to suffer the same fate so I will learn to be safe than sorry. Thanks for the suggestions, I hope I'm back in business.