Goal post internal support size?

[vizwhiz]

The goal posts on my trailers, or what was on the trailer when I got it, were essentially some short pieces of re-bar bent and welded to a plate that was bolted to the trailer frame, with a piece of PVC pipe stuck over the top. They looked different than each other, so I assumed that they had rotted away and were replaced (several times maybe?) by previous owners. Well, they were rotten when i got the boat also (one of them broke off on the trip home). Having removed them, and getting close to doing the official trailer clean-up and repainting that i want to do (sandblasting, etc.) i was wondering what the goal posts are supposed to look like on our trailers and how sturdy they should be, how tall the internal supports are, what you use for covers (PVC pipe?) etc.
Thanks!

[Boblee]

We copied and added two more but they are still at the Galvanisers but will be putting some photo's up shortly of the finished job btw if you are going to get your trailer sandblasted why not get it gal dipped?

[raycarlson]

factory M is 2" round aluminum tube, bent, about .125 wall thickness.

[Tomfoolery]

The OEM trailer goal posts were made from 1" schedule 40 pipe, which is about 1.315" OD with .133" wall thickness. I extended mine to just short of the rub rail using 3/4" sch. 40 pipe, which just fits inside with a little pounding with a 4 lb. beater. I sleeved it with PVC, and put a tennis ball on top of the pipe cap, since the cap will scratch the boat. I also put an eye bolt into each one, just under the tennis ball, for the rope bridle to the pipe vee at the bow winch.

One of mine was rotted when I got it, but it was easy enough to cut it back to solid, insert a 3/4" pipe sleeve, and put on a new piece, welded all around. If the lower part was damaged beyond repair, which was made by rolling the pipe into a curve, I'd just cut it off and miter the connections, perhaps with a stiffener. Pipe is easy enough to work with.

[vizwhiz]

So were the original steel pipes taken all the way up as high as the rub rails, or did you just make yours that tall?

[Boblee]

Just put a photo on the aussie section of my finished trailer with the original ones galvanised but they are different, the original ones from the back of the trailer are 1" with a 1/2" piece out the top to mount the rubber buffer on and the ones at the front are 1- 1/4" with the half inch piece but they extend further out to allow for the a frame going further under the boat.
The front ones do cop a bit more pressure but are brilliant especially when coming in with a big crosswind or tide and more so when you only get one go at it.
Not a good photo of them but you can see how high they come and where which is as original.

[Tomfoolery]

So were the original steel pipes taken all the way up as high as the rub rails, or did you just make yours that tall?

Assuming you're asking me, here are some pics.

I extended the goal posts by pounding in a piece of 3/4" sch. 40 pipe. I was going to weld them on, but the fit was so tight, there was no need. It took some hard pounding with a 4 lb lump hammer, and they're not coming out unless I cut them out.



I drilled oversized holes in the PVC so the nuts on the wire eye bolts could fit inside, tight to the pipe. The aft holes are larger so a socket wrench could fit, and I cut the excess off with an angle grinder (my $19 on sale HF 4-1/2" grinder ).



A tennis ball keeps the cap from scratching the gel coat, which it will if you don't cover or soften/round it somehow. Don't ask me how I know that.



I used carabiners for the bridle, only because I had them, they're cheap, and if they fail, it doesn't matter.

A little more than you asked about, but it might give you some ideas while you're repairing your goal posts.