DIY Shore Power Install

[Wind Chime]

SHOREPOWER CABLE

How long is your 30 amp cable?

I know circumstances depends on where the outlet on the boat is, and each particular Marina AC dock power pedestal - but in general; 25' or 50' ?

The 15 amp cable (to our GFIC power-bar) we use now is 50', so just wondering how everyone else is making out.

Thinking maybe two 25 footers, plus a 30/15 converter plug (30 amp female into male 15 amp, for at home etc)

[Signaleer]

Great thread! Incredibly helpful!

So... wrt galvanic isolators... What about center-board hanger?

Does that and perhaps bolts on the compression post warrant a galvanic isolator?

I know there was discussion earlier in the thread that it is not required, but no one mentioned those two things on the I don't think?

Also, it looks like all this stuff is going to cost me a good bit of ched-dah. Any thoughts on ways to reduce the expense at all? (it looks like prices have gone up - example, the AC panel you were buying at 87 bucks is no longer available and I can't find an equivalent. The one I selected was pretty much the cheapest I could find with a main fuse and branches. I'll never need 6...) Any recommendations would be very much welcomed...



I will of course get wire locally in only the lengths I need from West Marine... 10 gauge from the port inlet to ac main panel to charger and batters. 14 gauge on branches.

My Dual Bank 1/2/all switched DC system is already on the boat.

Thanks!

Ed.

[Tomfoolery]

Also, it looks like all this stuff is going to cost me a good bit of ched-dah. Any thoughts on ways to reduce the expense at all? (it looks like prices have gone up - example, the AC panel you were buying at 87 bucks is no longer available and I can't find an equivalent. The one I selected was pretty much the cheapest I could find with a main fuse and branches. I'll never need 6...) Any recommendations would be very much welcomed...

This is the cheapest all-in-one panel I'm aware of, with a 30A main breaker with reverse-polarity indication, plus three 15A branch circuits. $134 with free shipping. http://www.go2marine.com/product/98864F ... onics.html

[Signaleer]

Thanks! I think you just saved me $40 bucks!

Any opinions on the charger? I really don't know what the actual requirements are for a charger? This may be too much? Too little? etc.

Ed.

[Seapup]

Also, it looks like all this stuff is going to cost me a good bit of ched-dah. Any thoughts on ways to reduce the expense at all? (it looks like prices have gone up - example, the AC panel you were buying at 87 bucks is no longer available and I can't find an equivalent. The one I selected was pretty much the cheapest I could find with a main fuse and branches. I'll never need 6...) Any recommendations would be very much welcomed...

A shore power cable through the hatch to a GFCI powerstrip will power anything you want to use on the mac at the marina.

A way to start out before jumping in with both feet.

[Signaleer]

Also, it looks like all this stuff is going to cost me a good bit of ched-dah. Any thoughts on ways to reduce the expense at all? (it looks like prices have gone up - example, the AC panel you were buying at 87 bucks is no longer available and I can't find an equivalent. The one I selected was pretty much the cheapest I could find with a main fuse and branches. I'll never need 6...) Any recommendations would be very much welcomed...

A shore power cable through the hatch to a GFCI powerstrip will power anything you want to use on the mac at the marina.

A way to start out before jumping in with both feet.

Thanks! I would need a GFCI strip that attached to the marine cable correct?

I am trying to think of the 'cleanest' way to work that in the short term...

Also, Seapup, did you get my PM about your roller boom?

Ed.

[mastreb]

Because our loads were low (mostly just AC electronics chargers and fans) we used a 30 amp to house plug adapter ($75) and then a 30' heavy duty (20 amp) extension cord to a contractor's grade GFI power strip. Regular extension cords are way less expensive than a full length 30 amp cable, which you only need if you're actually going to draw 30 amps. the fused power strip will prevent anything unsafe from happening so even if we tried to go over the 20 amp limit the power strip wouldn't allow it.

We just plug in, loop the extension cord around cleats loosely to prevent it from falling, and bring it in at the hatch, wrap one of the companionway ladder legs, and plug it into the power strip which lives in the battery box. The battery charger is plugged in already, so charging starts when we turn the power strip on.

The whole setup is removable and requires no mods, total cost including cables and battery charger was <$300. Has worked fine for four years.

[seahouse]

(Sidenote to the thread topic).

Hey Ed (just saw this and a quick reply)- It was me, seahouse, not sea pup, re: the boom part. Got it. This part is made for the M gooseneck, are you aware whether it is compatible with the X gooseneck? Or not? I have no idea if it is or not, but wanted you to be sure of that before I make and send you one.

[Tomfoolery]

Any opinions on the charger? I really don't know what the actual requirements are for a charger? This may be too much? Too little? etc.

I use a similar Guest unit (Marinco at WM now) with 5A + 5A, charging two group 24 12V lead-acid batteries.

My Honda BF50 seems to do a fine job charging on its own when I don't bother using shore power, and they're not known for high capacity charging, by a lot. The shore power charger is also light on current, but I leave it on all the time whenever I'm on shore power, and the batteries seem to be fine. I haven't checked with a hygrometer, but I'm just not that worried about it. Mine is barely more than a maintainer, but that seems to be all I need.

I don't see why that 10A + 10A wouldn't work for you, especially if you give the batteries time to fully charge.

[Tomfoolery]

As to shore power through a 15A extension cord, it's technically a violation of the NEC (Art. 555-3) to use anything other than a grounding, locking single receptacle (not a standard NEMA 5-15 duplex) to deliver shore power to a boat. Up to 20 ft, 20A, and over that, 30A minimum. That's what the code says about providing shore power at a dock, including the size of the dock - what someone does after that is another thing. But I know of at least one marina where they'll unplug a boat using an extension cord rather than a real marine cord, probably for insurance reasons, so do sniff around to see if others are using an extension cord rather than a shore power cord before spending any moola.

[vkmaynard]

We've use an extension cord for the last 9 years in docks form Florida to the Maryland. No problems.

Victor

[RobertB]

Because our loads were low (mostly just AC electronics chargers and fans) we used a 30 amp to house plug adapter ($75) and then a 30' heavy duty (20 amp) extension cord to a contractor's grade GFI power strip. Regular extension cords are way less expensive than a full length 30 amp cable, which you only need if you're actually going to draw 30 amps. the fused power strip will prevent anything unsafe from happening so even if we tried to go over the 20 amp limit the power strip wouldn't allow it.
We just plug in, loop the extension cord around cleats loosely to prevent it from falling, and bring it in at the hatch, wrap one of the companionway ladder legs, and plug it into the power strip which lives in the battery box. The battery charger is plugged in already, so charging starts when we turn the power strip on.
The whole setup is removable and requires no mods, total cost including cables and battery charger was <$300. Has worked fine for four years.

How do you deal with reversed polarity? I used the same setup but figured out that using a battery charger, I tie AC and DC together. If the marina is not wire correctly, as discussed earlier, I run the risk of creating a situation where someone can be electrocuted in the water. Thus, my re-wiring project resulting in a marine 30A receptacle under the rear seat and new panels.
I like the AC voltmeter where I know I am not powering anything in an under voltage situation.

[Russ]

How do you deal with reverse polarity and how often do you encounter it?
We used to carry a reverser pigtail. Only encountered an outlet once and it was in the 80s at a really old marina. Most marinas today seem to be more modern.

[RobertB]

Right now - I can only be aware. I imagine I may ask for another slip.

[mastreb]

Because our loads were low (mostly just AC electronics chargers and fans) we used a 30 amp to house plug adapter ($75) and then a 30' heavy duty (20 amp) extension cord to a contractor's grade GFI power strip. Regular extension cords are way less expensive than a full length 30 amp cable, which you only need if you're actually going to draw 30 amps. the fused power strip will prevent anything unsafe from happening so even if we tried to go over the 20 amp limit the power strip wouldn't allow it.
We just plug in, loop the extension cord around cleats loosely to prevent it from falling, and bring it in at the hatch, wrap one of the companionway ladder legs, and plug it into the power strip which lives in the battery box. The battery charger is plugged in already, so charging starts when we turn the power strip on.
The whole setup is removable and requires no mods, total cost including cables and battery charger was <$300. Has worked fine for four years.

How do you deal with reversed polarity? I used the same setup but figured out that using a battery charger, I tie AC and DC together. If the marina is not wire correctly, as discussed earlier, I run the risk of creating a situation where someone can be electrocuted in the water. Thus, my re-wiring project resulting in a marine 30A receptacle under the rear seat and new panels.
I like the AC voltmeter where I know I am not powering anything in an under voltage situation.

There's a light on our 30-amp to 20-amp adapter that indicates reverse polarity with a red vs. green LED. Never seen it red, but if I did, I'd go have a talk with the marina.