tightening shrouds

[Interim]

I finally got my boat in the water for the first time this year. As I secured it in its slip, I decided the shrouds were too loose. I really don't want to drop the mast to adjust them.

What are the best ways to do this with the mast up?

I am thinking about leaning on the lower shroud while adjusting the upper, then vice versa. Also trying to figure out I can use the halyard, such as running it through a block at the base of a stanchion, then led back to a winch. Do either of these work, or is dropping the mast the only proper way to do this?

--john

[darrenj]

You don't have to drop the mast all the way in order to loosen the shrouds enough to adjust them.
Just secure the mast with the mast raising system or spinnaker halyard (to prevent the mast from lowering too far or crashing down) and then release the forestay so that the mast can tilt back towards the stern enough to put slack in the shrouds. Then adjust one shroud at a time and reconnect the forestay.

[paul I]

You will be fighting a loosing battle trying to do this without lowering the mast at least part way to slacken the lines. Note also that the shrouds shouldn't be loose, but they shouldn't be guitar string tight either. Do you have a tension gauge to use?

[Tomfoolery]

I was going to suggest what darrenj and paul I suggested - use the jib halyard to the deck cleat, or the MRS if you have one, tighten until you can unpin the forestay, allow the mast to rotate back just enoughadjust each side the same amount (I'd start with the outers, and only 1/8" at a time, which is one vernier pitch), then retighten and repin the forestay, slacken and check for proper tension and mast bend. Rinse. Repeat as needed.

Side stays generally only need to be tight enough that they don't get sloppy (lee side, of course) on a close reach or close hauled in good wind.

And that presumes the mast rake is already what it's supposed to be. It could be that the mast has too much rake, and adjusting the forestay shorter will correct that while adding tension to the side stays.

If you have a backstay, slacken that loose (or unpin it) before doing any of this, by the way.

[grady]

Do it all the time with the mast up and head stay loosened not disconnected. You just need 2 awl's. There is alway a hole that is half way there. Stick the awl in that hole and as it goes in it will take the load off the pin. Then there will be another hole that is about half way there. Stick the other awl in and pull the fist one out. Keep doing that until you get to the tension you like. You want an awl with a good long taper and that is about the same diameter as the pin.

[Interim]

Tomfollery, I was ready to apply the previous advice until I read your note. But first...

I do have an MRS, so easy enough I guess. I can back it off, tighten the shrouds, and reattache the forestay.

However, your note about the forestay raises a concern. I think the forestay is a bit loose. I don't have a guage, but I like buying tools so it won't take much prodding. But when we first attached the forestay last night there was way too much rake. I don't know what is optimal, but we were past it. I found my backstay thimble was twisted in the chainplate, which took a good inch off the backstay.

Now I am starting to see relationship between all the stays, and one mistake makes everything look funky. It will be worth going thru each and getting it right, obviously.

How does one measure rake, and what is the appropriate range? (I understand that more = a flatter sail, and less is a fuller camber).

thanks.

--john

[Tomfoolery]

Tomfollery, I was ready to apply the previous advice until I read your note. But first...

Don't discount grady's suggestion. If you prefer that method, then that's the way to go. I just prefer doing it the other way, but there's no technical reason not to use a pair of awls and work it. Each pitch (smallest adjustment) is only 1/8", so you don't need to work at all to shorten it that much.

But the slack forestay works with the slack side stays. It's a three-legged chair - adjusting one side effects the other side, and the forestay. The tension in the side stays comes from the forestay. So you don't actually adjust the forestay tension usually; you adjust the mast rake with the backstay (per the manual), then adjust the tension in the forestay to put 'some bend' into the mast, then the side stays (which adjusts the tension in the forestay since that's what they're reacting against). I use a different method, but you get to the same place. And you can repeatedly slacken, adjust, then retighten the forestay until the tension and balance is right. And remember that the inner stays keep the mast straight (port-starboard), AND reduce the mast bend when tightened. Which affects the other stays. So it's a back and forth trial and error thing until you get it right. That's where turnbuckles are easier, though not well suited to trailer sailing (too delicate and easily bent).

As to rake, the manual says 'about 3 degrees', but I don't know where they're measuring from. If it's 3 deg. from vertical, level the boat (water line), hang a heavy plumb from the main halyard when the air is dead still, and measure about 17-1/2", assuming it's a 28 ft mast.