Can anyone help identify this 26M Part?

[OverEasy]

Guess I’m gonna have to talk with my buddy Reuben.
He’s a genius at solving unique design problems growing up.
His Dad ran a tooling company Gold Tool and Farb Fabrications……

[Jimmyt]

Guess I’m gonna have to talk with my buddy Reuben.
He’s a genius at solving unique design problems growing up.
His Dad ran a tooling company Gold Tool and Farb Fabrications……

Can't wait to see what he comes up with. When you're giving him the design criteria, make sure to stress it has to be 100% reliable. Having the steering linkage come off of a big outboard, running balls to the wall, would probably ruin your day.

[DaveC426913]

Pull back the sleeve and the ball slips out of the socket. Yes, it springs back when released.

Before I spend 150 clams on an experiment, do you think it might be possible to apply some chewing gum and bailing wire and good ol' Canadian moxie to rig it with a trigger to be operated from two feet away?

I have a lot of confidence in my moxie, but it stops short of 'engineering magic'.

[Jimmyt]

[quote=Jimmyt post_id=352911 time=<a href="tel:1629165548">1629165548</a> user_id=16979]
Pull back the sleeve and the ball slips out of the socket. Yes, it springs back when released.

Before I spend 150 clams on an experiment, do you think it might be possible to apply some chewing gum and bailing wire and good ol' Canadian moxie to rig it with a trigger to be operated from two feet away?
[/quote]

That's going to depend on how much Canadian moxie you have available to sprinkle on it.

I can get my head around removing the sleeve pull. Some fairly intricate stainless welding, a center-pull bike brake cable, and a dash of moxie... But, moving the motor to line it up with the stationary ball after the disconnect, moving the rod over the stationary ball, and dropping it on, present a bit more complexity.

Frankly, if I were going to try to remote it, I'd probably try a totally different approach (i.e. not use the ball disconnect).

But, if you can think of a way to do it, please post a sketch. We'd all be interested in what you come up with.

[DaveC426913]

But, moving the motor to line it up with the stationary ball after the disconnect, moving the rod over the stationary ball, and dropping it on, present a bit more complexity.

Yeah. I designed one for the stock steering mechanism, but I never implemented the "point of no return" aspect - i.e. grinding the the pin on the steering bar about a half inch - because if it doesn't work, I have to buy a new steering bar.

I'm assuming/hoping that, as long as the motor is held in just the right place, I can unhitch, move and re-hitch the connector without moving the motor.

[Jimmyt]

Yeah. I designed one for the stock steering mechanism, but I never implemented the "point of no return" aspect - i.e. grinding the the pin on the steering bar about a half inch - because if it doesn't work, I have to buy a new steering bar.

I'm assuming/hoping that, as long as the motor is held in just the right place, I can unhitch, move and re-hitch the connector without moving the motor.

The alignment between the steering ball and the stationary ball might be doable if you can eliminate virtually all of the linkage slack. Then, you could mark the steering wheel orientation that corresponds with the stationary ball location. But, you have a ball and socket on both ends, so the rod can twist as you move it - possibly preventing rotational alignment with the ball...

You can get the kit, mount it, and play with it to see if you can work out the details. All the while, you can use it as-is until you figure it out.

[DaveC426913]

The alignment between the steering ball and the stationary ball might be doable if you can eliminate virtually all of the linkage slack.

Then, you could mark the steering wheel orientation that corresponds with the stationary ball location. But, you have a ball and socket on both ends, so the rod can twist as you move it - possibly preventing rotational alignment with the ball...

Well, I would have a "gripper" handle that would keep it captured. This, but perhaps permanently attached:

You can get the kit, mount it, and play with it to see if you can work out the details. All the while, you can use it as-is until you figure it out.

Yeah, that's the plan.

[StuNorman]

Well, if you have an extra $170 laying around, you can order the motor quick disconnect kit. It will get you the later link while upgrading you to the quick disconnect - which, I believe, greatly enhances the sailing experience. When you're trying to steer with a big outboard flopping around, it really takes a bit of the joy out of the experience.

Looking at the photo of the earlier linkage, I see no reason to use a J configuration rather than an L. But, there is no real advantage to using an L over the J either... The important point is the quick disconnect part.

http://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/5712-1m0.htm

I can get you pics of my 2013 setup, but I don't have a 2008, and can't document all of the differences - sorry.

In fact, I had to google to find the pic of the earlier linkage to convince you that it was, in fact, your motor steering linkage.

But, if you're willing to post pics of what you have, I'm sure that we can all figure out. There are a lot of smart guys hanging around in the forum. And, I'll try to help, too.

Hi JimmyT,

Sorry for the late reply...I just took a 2 week trip to Greece and have been drooling over the big charter boats since my return. I'm now sinking my teeth into the refit of my .

I've had a look at the steering and the PO prior to the last PO installed the quick detachment system which can bee seen in the photo below. The linkage is the newer L shaped linkage so that's some money saved. As you can see from the phots attached, the boat was in an atrocious condition with pretty much everything stripped off of it.

I dropped the boat into the marine shop to get all the external deck, rail and steering fittings reattached. There were also a bunch of small cracks and holes under the rubstrip which I needed some fibreglass repaired prior reattaching the rubstrip. It's 113F here (Abu Dhabi) and I spent last weekend crawling around inside it reattaching stanchions, the pulpit, tracks, cleats, the mast support arch, mast base and daggerboard raising pulley. The boat was like a sauna (60-80% humidity here too) and it's just too hot to work on the boat further so I've handed it to the experts who have the shop to work in.

My biggest frustration so far has been trying to reattach the bow stay plate. God knows why the PO removed it and how he was able to reach the nylock nuts to undo these in the first place. I've got the plate back in but for the life of me can not get the nuts back on, even when using two extensions rods (20cm & 60cm) and 2 articulating joints on the ratchet. I even bribed my 10 year old to crawl up into the bow and try and reach the bolt to apply washers and nuts but no joy...their arms aren't long enough... mine are but my shoulders are too wide! I've told the shop to gut in via the anchor

My next challenge is reattaching the rudder posts. I just realized the rudder post sits above the rudder post bracket (not the other way around) but my main question is does the rudder post go through a waterproof flange when it goes through the hull to the linkage? What stops the water entering the steering compartment via the rudder posts (bearing in mind the rudder post is hollow to allow the rudder lowering lines to run through them)? I know these are rookie questions but I don't have access to an assembled or to figure this out and am working from a blank slate.

Cheers!







d the

[Jimmyt]

My next challenge is reattaching the rudder posts. I just realized the rudder post sits above the rudder post bracket (not the other way around) but my main question is does the rudder post go through a waterproof flange when it goes through the hull to the linkage? What stops the water entering the steering compartment via the rudder posts (bearing in mind the rudder post is hollow to allow the rudder lowering lines to run through them)? I know these are rookie questions but I don't have access to an assembled or to figure this out and am working from a blank slate.

No waterproof flanges or seals. The height of the rudder tube is sufficiently above the waterline to prevent water from flowing in. The rudder posts enter through a box with a small drain port that slows the water inrush down to prevent water intrusion around the post in following seas. Some have reported water intrusion when the boat was being launched or retrieved at a steep angle - causing the stern to be deeper than normal for a longer time. Normally, it won't leak.

I'll give you some outside pics now. Inside pics are tougher, but I can get them if you need them.













Ignore the pink (used to be red) safety towing lines...

[DaveC426913]

Then, you could mark the steering wheel orientation that corresponds with the stationary ball location.

Alas, IME, the wheel orientation is not accurate.

I wrapped it with 1/4" line, including the one vertical spoke. After just a season, that spoke is no longer anywhere near top dead centre.

[Jimmyt]

Alas, IME, the wheel orientation is not accurate.

I wrapped it with 1/4" line, including the one vertical spoke. After just a season, that spoke is no longer anywhere near top dead centre.

Have you been through your linkage looking for loose bolts, wear, etc.? In any event, you are probably on point. The socket and ball positions have to be dead on to snap in place. The steering linkage, when it's at its best, may not be good enough to base the alignment on wheel position. Oh well, that's why I had that big "L" tattooed on my forehead.

[StuNorman]

My next challenge is reattaching the rudder posts. I just realized the rudder post sits above the rudder post bracket (not the other way around) but my main question is does the rudder post go through a waterproof flange when it goes through the hull to the linkage? What stops the water entering the steering compartment via the rudder posts (bearing in mind the rudder post is hollow to allow the rudder lowering lines to run through them)? I know these are rookie questions but I don't have access to an assembled or to figure this out and am working from a blank slate.

No waterproof flanges or seals. The height of the rudder tube is sufficiently above the waterline to prevent water from flowing in. The rudder posts enter through a box with a small drain port that slows the water inrush down to prevent water intrusion around the post in following seas. Some have reported water intrusion when the boat was being launched or retrieved at a steep angle - causing the stern to be deeper than normal for a longer time. Normally, it won't leak.

I'll give you some outside pics now. Inside pics are tougher, but I can get them if you need them.













Ignore the pink (used to be red) safety towing lines...

Thanks a lot. That's an excellent explanations and clears it up for me. I was quite perplexed as to how the boat wouldn't get filled with water from the rudder posts and I scoured the internet (& the BWY website) for an elusive 'rudder flange'! Any images of the rudder post linkages to the steering mechanism would be grateful if you already have them but don't tear your boat apart for my sake. I'll search for other forum posts which may show this. It would be great if this forum had a photo library of all the steering configuration, rigging and deck hardware installations but realize most owners have their assembled boats to assist them as a reference guide before they start upgrade/repair work.

[StuNorman]

My next challenge is reattaching the rudder posts. I just realized the rudder post sits above the rudder post bracket (not the other way around) but my main question is does the rudder post go through a waterproof flange when it goes through the hull to the linkage? What stops the water entering the steering compartment via the rudder posts (bearing in mind the rudder post is hollow to allow the rudder lowering lines to run through them)? I know these are rookie questions but I don't have access to an assembled or to figure this out and am working from a blank slate.

No waterproof flanges or seals. The height of the rudder tube is sufficiently above the waterline to prevent water from flowing in. The rudder posts enter through a box with a small drain port that slows the water inrush down to prevent water intrusion around the post in following seas. Some have reported water intrusion when the boat was being launched or retrieved at a steep angle - causing the stern to be deeper than normal for a longer time. Normally, it won't leak.

I'll give you some outside pics now. Inside pics are tougher, but I can get them if you need them.













Ignore the pink (used to be red) safety towing lines...

Thanks a lot. That's an excellent explanations and clears it up for me. I was quite perplexed as to how the boat wouldn't get filled with water from the rudder posts and I scoured the internet (& the BWY website) for an elusive 'rudder flange'! Any images of the rudder post linkages to the steering mechanism would be grateful if you already have them but don't tear your boat apart for my sake. I'll search for other forum posts which may show this. It would be great if this forum had a photo library of all the steering configuration, rigging and deck hardware installations but realize most owners have their assembled boats to assist them as a reference guide before they start upgrade/repair work.

....also if you have any images of the internal routing of the rudder lowering lines? I haven't even begun to think about putting the rudders on yet!

[Jimmyt]

The rudder downhaul runs from the rudder, up through the bottom of the rudder post, then up through the deck near the cleat. The downhaul and uphaul are one continuous line on mine. The uphaul end goes out over the transom and down to the rudder. The pics show the exterior routing. But, if you need additional explanation, let me know. Once you get started on it, I think it will become obvious. You might have to use a snake or pull wire to get it up through the deck.



Downhaul line exiting the top of the rudder post...



Downhaul line entering plastic tube leading up to deck... (old pic - I have since gotten the control cables out of the steering linkage. )

I won't have to do much to get you some linkage pics, so let me know if you need them. The hardest part is crawling back in there and trying to get a decent camera position... I'm not as good as I once was

[StuNorman]

Thanks you Jimmy T. That is of great help. It's reassuring to know it a lot simpler than I had feared. I appreciate the guidance.