Trailer strap?

[green]

I’ll be putting my new to me 2005 on its factory trailer for the first time in about two weeks. Can anyone recommend a trailer strap make and length? I’ve seen pictures of folks strapping to the trailer around the cabin.

[Russ]

Not around the cabin. My strap goes from trailer over cockpit back down to the trailer in front of the pedistal. I have no idea what size it is. I wouldn't sweat it too much if you aren't going very far.

Mine is original from BWY and it's about 2" wide with hooks on both ends that clip under the trailer.

[green]

Thanks Russ. I meant to type cockpit.

I’m going about 2.5 hours so probably best to strap it down. I’m guessing 26-30’ but I’m not sure I have the dimensions right.

[Jimmyt]

I use a 2" wide Husky. I run it over the cockpit just in front of the Genoa tracks. The strap is 18' and there is another foot of strap on the ratchet mechanism. Whatever you use, pad the ratchet mechanism if it can hit the hull.





If you hook it to the inside of the lower flange, you may be able to keep it off the hull without effort.

[NiceAft]

green said:

I’m going about 2.5 hours so probably best to strap it down.

It doesn't matter how far you are going, you should strap it down. Not everyone here does this, but that's like playing Russian Roulette. Most accidents occur within 25 miles of home.

[DragonflyMac25]

Maybe I go overkill. I use 2 straps. One over the cockpit and another over the bow just forward of the cabin. I use 3 inch straps that are 25ft so I tie up and secure the loose end with small bungies.

One thing I am thinking off adding is D ring points on the frame to hook the straps into. Just being hooked under/onto the frame they can come loose when I hit rough road/bumps. I have them tight but there seems to be enough flex in the hull and bunks to let them slack just enough to unhook on big bumps.

[WinSome]

Number One: Ontario law ,and likely your’s, requires load to be secured. So gotta tie it down!
#2. I used to use a 2” strap, but our X, and formerly a 26C, didn’t move while on the road. I dis-liked having that honking’ strap across the cockpit when loading up. To save time at the launch I started using the dock lines tied down to frame. Works perfect, and bowline dock line goes down around. Now-when I have ‘helpers’ around -I assign them the task of getting those lines off and tossed aboard! Everyone’s happy. Our 2” straps are sitting on the shelf.

[Piddle and Futz]

I use this one from HF and it has done well on both short and long hauls. Cheap, but well worth the investment.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3300-lb-c ... 60689.html

Since our rig tends to be aft-heavy, I strap it over the cabin, just forward of the stanchions, and hooked onto the steel forward of the fenders on our 2005

I finally learned to do the "mac bump" maneuver to bring the boat snugly against the nose of the trailer, and also moved gas and gear forward on the boat while trailering. This has greatly helped the boat behave much smoother when towed. (Previously was a little scary, especially when towing with a truck that lifted the hitch above level.)

[Piddle and Futz]

Eminently grateful for that extra trailer strap today.



Ratchet strap ripped during the 20 mile trip from marina to storage and boat was balanced teetering on the trailer.

If we did not have the extra strap, it could have been a very bad day indeed.

[Russ]

Eminently grateful for that extra trailer strap today.



Ratchet strap ripped during the 20 mile trip from marina to storage and boat was balanced teetering on the trailer.

If we did not have the extra strap, it could have been a very bad day indeed.

Okay....so have you heard of the "Mac Bump"?

The problem with our boats and our trailers is that you can't winch it fully onto the trailer without causing damage. So I'll explain:
After pulling your boat up from the ramp onto level ground you MUST drive the boat fast and slam on the brakes. I know...this seems weird. But it slides the boat forward onto the trailer so the bow meets the chock. It's called the "Mac Bump". Then....it's prudent to attach another line from the bow eye to the trailer AND straps. But the bump is required.

[kurz]

Instead of macbump:

When going out of the ramp you have to winch continuingly the boat with the trailer winch closer.

Maybe it just works as I have a roller under the trailer V.

[Stickinthemud57]

Okay....so have you heard of the "Mac Bump"?

The problem with our boats and our trailers is that you can't winch it fully onto the trailer without causing damage. So I'll explain:
After pulling your boat up from the ramp onto level ground you MUST drive the boat fast and slam on the brakes. I know...this seems weird. But it slides the boat forward onto the trailer so the bow meets the chock. It's called the "Mac Bump". Then....it's prudent to attach another line from the bow eye to the trailer AND straps. But the bump is required.

This has been my experience as well.

My trailer is equipped with a short chain that hooks to the bow eye. It will keep the boat on the trailer should the winch strap fail.

[Piddle and Futz]

Just for clarification, the boat slid back on the trailer after the strap ripped. Was bow-to-bumper when I started.

[NiceAft]

Just for clarification, the boat slid back on the trailer after the strap ripped. Was bow-to-bumper when I started.

Just wondering; is the strap seventeen years old

[Piddle and Futz]

Possibly.
We have had the boat since October and, given that the winch strap held up when the boat was transported from NC to TX, I did not think it was in urgent need of replacement.

I did purchase a 12v marine winch, but have not yet installed it.