Mast Lighting

[leefrankpierce]

I sail an inland lake and keep the boat in a slip.
I always used the hull mounted marker lights and the top 360 light when under power or sail.
My mid mounted 225 degree never worked.
Realized recently that the mid mounted 230 degree light is what I am supposed to be using under power.
Under sail, only the hull mounted lights are required.
At the moment, neither work so I need to fix the mid mounted 225, but my question is.
If I never anchor out, should I make the effort to have the top 360 working?
Just that is is a real pain to access the top of the mast when the boat is in a slip.

[pitchpolehobie]

I dont have a 360top light for anchoring out. I have an inflatable lantern I run up the halyard. Its big enough that the mast doesnt block its view from any angle. It is very bright on a dark night.

https://luminaid.com/products/packlite-nova-usb

I really dont think i paid that much for it. Search around. If you never anchor out you dont really *need* it.

I thought you needed the midmount for under sail too?

[Russ]

Assuming you have an aft facing "white" light, the 360 mast light is ONLY for anchoring.

If BOTH are not working, I'd start with deck connections.

[C Buchs]

When I got my it had one plug in the deck for the lights on the mast and two plugs coming out of the bottom of the mast. I had to unplug one and plug the other in to use the 360-degree anchor light or the 225-degree steaming light. This worked OK and I didn't get around to upgrading it for the first five years we had the boat. BWY sells the 2-pin plugs that should be what your boat came with for $20. Here's a link https://shop.bwyachts.com/product-p/8304-1v4.htm. I installed one of their 4-pin plugs that cost $22. Here's a link for that one https://shop.bwyachts.com/DECK-PLUG-SCR ... 14-1v4.htm.

Jeff

[Tsatzsue]

I agree with checking the connection. That's usually where the problem is. I went through a bunch of the deck connectors. Junk. The dinghy would wipe them out when on deck and the always were a PIA. I left the deck section in place and ran a trailer connector through the the existing deck connection. Drilled a hole through it then siliconed it to seal it. I wired the other end to the mast. I haven't had a problem since. Just plug it in and good to go. And it is flexible. If the deck connection is bad replace it with a deck gland and do the same thing. marine heat shrink on the mast wiring connections.
KB

[Be Free]

If you never anchor out then the question of a functioning anchor light should never come up. I would strongly urge you though to fix it at your earliest convenience.

In the US the rule is:

(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:
(i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball;
(ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in
subparagraph (i), an all-round white light.
(b) A vessel of less than 50 meters in length may exhibit an all-round white
light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph
(a) of this Rule.

Other parts of the rules specify that the all-round light (for a "Macgregor sized" boat) needs to be visible for 2 miles.

In practical terms, for our boats, you should display a white light that can be seen from any side of the boat from at least 2 miles away and in a place where it can best be seen.

[leefrankpierce]

Checking the connection at deck = yes
I did not mention that the top light broke after I drilled new holes in my mast, reasonably sure I damaged the wires.

I am really asking about under power or sail, any reason to have the top 360 ?
I do not anchor out.

As far as the "steaming light" part way up the mast,
While I have never had mine working, I imagine under sail, it would reflect off the sails causing night vision issues, and it would be blocked from view from a large number of angles.
My reading = just the nav lights under sail.

[rsvpasap]

RULE 21 Definitions (a) “Masthead light” means a white light placed over the fore and aft centerline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel.

RULE 23 Power-driven Vessels Underway

(a) A power-driven vessel underway shall exhibit:

(i) a masthead light forward;
(ii) [Irrelevant]
(iii) sidelights; and
(iv) a sternlight.

(b) [Irrelevant]

(c) [Irrelevant]

(d) A power-driven vessel of less than 12 meters in length may, in lieu of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule, exhibit an all-round white light and sidelights.

(e) [Irrelevant]

RULE 25 Sailing Vessels Underway and Vessels Under Oars

(a) A sailing vessel underway shall exhibit:

(i) sidelights;
(ii) a stern light.

(b) In a sailing vessel of less than 20 meters in length the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule may be combined in one lantern carried at or near the top of the mast where it can best be seen.

(c) A sailing vessel underway may, in addition to the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule, exhibit at or near the top of the mast, where they can best be seen, two all-round lights in a vertical line, the upper being red and the lower green, but these lights shall not be exhibited in conjunction with the combined lantern permitted by paragraph (b) of this Rule.

(d) [Irrelevant]

(e) A vessel proceeding under sail when also being propelled by machinery shall exhibit forward, where it can best be seen, a conical shape, apex downward. A vessel of less than 12 meters in length is not required to exhibit this shape, but may do so.

viewtopic.php?p=369427#p369427

[Be Free]

Checking the connection at deck = yes
I did not mention that the top light broke after I drilled new holes in my mast, reasonably sure I damaged the wires.

I am really asking about under power or sail, any reason to have the top 360 ?
I do not anchor out.

As far as the "steaming light" part way up the mast,
While I have never had mine working, I imagine under sail, it would reflect off the sails causing night vision issues, and it would be blocked from view from a large number of angles.
My reading = just the nav lights under sail.

The 26X comes wired from the factory with the white stern light and the two side lights (red and green) on the same circuit. That is the normal light pattern for a sailboat under sail at night.

The mast head (steaming light) is added to the other lights when you are under power.

The all-round white at the top of the mast is only for anchoring. It is never used under power or under sail with factory wiring and factory lights.

You are correct that with the sails up (at night) the steaming light does reflect back into the cockpit and makes it hard to see where you are going. I have been sailing at night and briefly turned on the steaming light to illuminate my sails when I did not have a spotlight handy and there was another boat near me.

Even though you don't intend to anchor out, if you are sailing at night then you really should have all of your lights functioning. It is not difficult to fix the wiring in the mast. The 26X does not have any flotation in the mast so it is easy to pull new wires. It is extra-easy if you can pull them with the old wires.

[leefrankpierce]

I am in a slip nose in. Even with the mast in travel position, it is hard to get to the top of the mast. I guess I can turn the boat around or walk the mast forward and tie it off.

[rsvpasap]

If you turn the boat around, you're going to need a ladder.

[leefrankpierce]

If you turn the boat around, you're going to need a ladder.

True but if I lower the mast, then tie it to the bow pulpit, then disconnect the base and pivot/balance over the pulpit?

Guess I need a buddy or two and some beers.

Lee

[Be Free]

If you lower the mast to the crutch and then disconnect it from the hinge you can pivot the mast on the crutch roller. Do not disconnect the baby stays. The baby stays will allow the mast base to rotate up a foot or so, bringing the top of the mast closer to the ground, possibly close enough to reach the anchor light without a ladder.

[leefrankpierce]

If you lower the mast to the crutch and then disconnect it from the hinge you can pivot the mast on the crutch roller. Do not disconnect the baby stays. The baby stays will allow the mast base to rotate up a foot or so, bringing the top of the mast closer to the ground, possibly close enough to reach the anchor light without a ladder.

Yep.
Thanks all.

[leefrankpierce]

Update for anyone who might care.
Inspecting my plug at the deck shows the wires broke there.
Guess my re-rigging wiggled them just enough to break them at the plug, so my top light is OK and I do not need to drop the mast.
My middle "steaming" light, I was able to strap a step ladder to the mast.
After taking the very degraded cover off, found the bulb was a dimple type that is hard to find, so determined to replace the fixture.
Used a 90 degree drill to drill out the rivets on the mounting plate, then cut the wires taking the entire assembly down.
The light is bolted to the plate, so the light could not be removed without removing the mounting plate.
Mounted the newer version with LED bulb, then was able to tape to the old wires to feed a new set of wires that were soldered to the new light.
Waiting on a new plug to finish the job. (amazon got me the light overnight, plug I have to wait for)